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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    OK, your .pl address did reject the zip file. Let me know if the .eu one comes through.
    Thank you again. This is huge help.

    I already see there is a difference in message id between my model 2011 and yours 2014.
    What is probably the same: TCM (0x220, 0x222), SAS (0x0C3)
    Difference: YRS (mine 0x303, yours I don't know

    VCM is sending 0x230, 0x430 and 0x020, but I don't see 0x580 and 0x581 (might be before log started)

    Because of difference in YRS sensor data (which is used by ABS) it is possible that moving ABS/VCM unit from newer model to older might require installing newer YRS as well.
    ABS, 3xVSS, YRS and SAS are linked together in one system. Probably newer ABS unit will not be able to read old YRS data (0x303).

    0x330 - resposible for DPS, always sends same data which means that torque values are in different message.

    I've tried to analyze all messages and I came up with 3 different messages (0x122, 0x150, 0x343) and one of them might be DPS torque sensor data.
    To indicate precisely which one is from DPS I would need to understand how DPS works. Basically, when DPS motor is turned on and how it feels on steering.
    I would expect that DPS will turn the assistance when torque is sensed, and it will try to minimize torque required to steer left or right. This would mean that I will see spike in torque applied, steering angle starts to change
    and afterwards torque starts to get lower when DPS assistance is turned on. I don't see that unfortunately.

    What I see is that within timespan of 12s steering is moved to right, left, right left and so on.
    Data which looks like torque (0x150) changes in first 4s and later is mostly the same.
    There is one bit in 0x150 which changes after 0,5s when steering is sensed, and after 2s it is back to old state.

    IdahoMtnSpyder - are you able to say when DPS assist is turned on?


    It would be interesting to see how my VCM will behave when I will introduce 0x150 in my CAN bus.
    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  2. #77
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    My nephew has a 2010 RT. I'll see if I can get him to let me record what his machine does. My understanding of the DPS is the amount and timing of the assist depends on what the torque sensor detects for turning torque. That may be tough to measure while the bike is parked and running. It's winter time so I won't be able to record anything while I'm riding until about March or
    April.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  3. #78
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    No need to go that far and make further recordings. I already have lots of data to analize.
    My question was about how do you "feel" DPS is working and if it works instantly from the start, but I think I know the answer and I should make deeper analysis.

    I will get back to this topic later. Now I need to prepare everything for inspection and first registration.
    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  4. #79
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    Every part I've received with spyder is somehow damaged, especially plastic parts.

    Glove box had one arm broken and missing so I've had to made it from scratch.


    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  5. #80
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    I don't have cable for glove box, but I have cable for front trunk which will be made by me. So I used front trunk cable for glove box. It is a bit short and needs to be carefully placed under glove box, but it works.
    I've had to add proper ending for cable (universal cable end) to keep it in place.

    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  6. #81
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    While I was working on cables I added trunk latch from minicooper (10$) which already has electric actuator.

    Again, some modifications needs to be done and universal ending for cable is used to make it work.

    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  7. #82
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    Next part is console. This one was also damaged. Whole top of console was broken and missing. I've used already damaged parts (PP) from another motorcycle and made new top of console. It's not perfect but top is not seen during normal ride - it just needs to be there.


    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  8. #83
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    Same problem with belt cover. Broken in half. Welded on both sides, additional weld inside to make part stronger and 100, then 200 grit sandpaper on "visible" surface.

    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  9. #84
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    No bracket for catalyzer? Steel place, hammer, drill and it's done. Rubber pieces (not visible on photo) used from broken ABS .

    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  10. #85
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    No rubber mounts and steel plate to hold stabilizer bar. Same thing: steel, drill and hammer. Rubber mounts made from rubber plate bought in shop with industrial sealants. I've used small knife to cut rubber to proper shape.


    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  11. #86
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    It already starts to look like something

    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  12. #87
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    That looks fantastic already. Well done sir.

  13. #88
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by megagame View Post
    My question was about how do you "feel" DPS is working and if it works instantly from the start, but I think I know the answer and I should make deeper analysis.
    My experience is that about the only time you can tell when DPS is working, is when it is not! The application of assistive torque is so smooth and gradual, and variable, there is no way to detect by feel when and if the DPS is assisting. I'm going to guess that as you go around a curve the torque the rider applies to the handlebar is maybe 30 to 40% of the total turning torque. At the start of a turn the torque is close to zero so the DPS adds zero torque. But as the torque requirement goes up, the amount added by the DPS goes up. When the DPS in my 2013 RT was acting up, and kicking in and out, I could really tell when it kicked in. If I was in a hard turn, like a freeway exit loop, and the DPS wasn't working, and then all of a sudden it did start working, the extra torque I was applying to the handlebar would make me suddenly turn so much I almost went off the road to the inside of the curve. A DPS that kicks in and out can actually be dangerous.

    Hope this helps.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  14. #89
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    Thanks. This means it will be hard to determinate precisely algorithm responsible for amount of assist. But, it sure works all the time when torque is applied.
    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  15. #90
    Active Member bluewoo's Avatar
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    megagame, thank you for this! I really enjoy the reading and all the sweat you've put into this old spyder plus keeping all of us up to date.
    I have my fingers crossed that it will be a success, But from what you've shown us I don't think you need any luck.
    Team effort
    2021 RT LTD Petrol Blue DARK delivered 9/22/20
    2018 RT-L , Blue

  16. #91
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    I've been hunting for front panels for some time, and winter is almost over in Poland. Once it will be more than 8*C I will continue my work.

    For now small update. I've bought used front trunk and seal was missing. I've bought universal EPDM seal called "Edge Trim Profile with Top Seal". Around 140cm is needed but i suggest buyng 150cm and cutting excess material.
    Cost of seal should be around 4$ per meter, 6$ total.




    I didn't have lock with handle for rear trunk so I bought one from different spyder. I've removed "lock insert" by pushing lock pins (from behind of the handle) with needle and pushing the insert out. With the insert separated from handle I've put my key inside the lock and shaved pins with the file so that pins won't stick out with my key inside. Since I don't have master key I've left last pin untouched because it holds the lock inside the handle.

    2011 Spyder RT with some work to do

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...from-graveyard

  17. #92
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    Great job...
    RTS 2011 SM5, 78,000 miles


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