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  1. #1
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    Default HELP - LH fog light cover wont go back on! What's the trick?

    I just installed the fog led lights from lamonster , question whats the trick to putting back the cover on the left side...i have been at it for 2 hours and i cant get back on.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Arion's Avatar
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    You didn't say but I'm going to assume your Spyder is a 1330 triple. I had the very same problem with my 2015 RT-S. First, the space in which to work is severely limited by the cold air duct on the left side. Second, despite several how-to-do-it videos, unless you have very long slender fingers with several more joints than a normal human, there isn't enough space to be able to work. Third there is no reasonable way to be able to see what you're doing.

    You won't like it but the "trick" is to remove the front trunk and even then you will find that it takes some manipulating to connect the left side weather proof housing. The task is time consuming but it's also worth the effort in my opinion. Among other things you can clean the radiators without damaging them while the "frunk" is off, and take a careful look at all the other stuff not normally accessible and clean as necessary.

    After removing the mirrors, wind deflectors, and the necessary body panels, there are two Torx30 screws, six electrical connectors, the hose clamp for the cold air duct, and the trunk release cable to remove or disconnect. Finally, there are also six 10mm bolts to be removed - two underneath the trunk and four above along the back edge of the trunk assembly. I put the front wheels up on drive-on auto ramps to give me room to crawl under and remove the two bottom bolts, and then placed a box just in front of the trunk to rest it on when I pulled it away from the bike.

    I then set the "frunk" on a pillow while I worked from the back side of the assembly. It's much easier to reassemble the left side fog lamp cover when you can actually see what you're doing. When the weather proof covers are back in place, and before beginning the process of re-installing the frunk, tape the power cables for the lights to the upper edge on either side of the trunk assembly so they don't drop down into the trunk as it's being maneuvered back into place.

    Another re-assembly trick is lubricating the inside of the flexible cold air duct with dish soap before trying to re-insert it into nozzle. With that done, be sure the top of the trunk frame hooks over the lip on the machine proper, then re-install the two bottom 10mm bolts but don't tighten completely. Then re-insert the four top 10mm bolts, tighten the cold air duct hose clamp, re-connect the four lighting cables (two each side), re-install the remaining two electrical connectors, and re-attach the trunk release cable. Test that the trunk opens properly before re-installing the panel below the windshield, and test the operation of the fog lamps. Tighten the six 10mm bolts, re-install the three push pins on each side of the frunk assembly, and the two Torx30 screws - one on each side. Finally, re-install all the body panels, wind deflectors and mirrors. It's done - piece of cake!

    It sounds intimidating but it really isn't. It does take time and some reasonable attention to detail but it is not beyond the ability of the average individual who can use a socket wrench and screw driver. I'm not an experienced or skilled mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I did successfully install LED fog lamps in both my 2015 RT-S and my wife's 2012 RT Limited (and changed the wimp stock horn on hers while at it because it's buried deep in the trunk assembly).

    I was pleased enough with the "take-it-apart, install something, and put-it-back-together" exercise with fog lamp bulbs that the following week I disassembled the back end of both Spyders to install Show Chrome's high mount tail/brake/turn signal assemblies.

    Here are two photos to hopefully add a bit more understand to the words. And here is a link to a very good You Tube video about frunk removal and reassembly - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw5atKHlmp4. It's pretty well done and is worth the 40 minutes it takes to watch it.


    2015 RTS trunk removal.jpg
    Show Chrome High Tail Light.jpg
    2012 2012 RT-L and 3015 RT-S , 2012 - red and 2015 black (way too black)

  3. #3
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Arion's post is very informative. Because of the size of my paws I elected to remove the frunk and it was much easier for me than trying to do the left fog light with it off.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
    ******************************
    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  4. #4
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    Hi guys i want to thank you i had to remove the frunk, it went right on after that. on to the next challenge. removing the rear shock,

  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Or, trim 3/16th off the top of the tab on the cover. Follow the arc when trimming. Goes in way faster than removing the frunk!
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  6. #6
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    its back on and it a bear...... i removed the rear shock and installed a elka stage 2 with a 300lbs spring. its now back together now ill install the rear led lights....

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