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  1. #1
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    Default Air Scoops Heat mgt

    I have a 2012 RTL . I bought the air vent kit. What I am pondering is leaving the stock panels in tack. No cutting. Assemble the scoops -permanently so they don't come apart..then on all the surfaces where the scoops are in contact with the panel utilize a double side 3m adhesive tape...along with the screw that goes into the front portion of the vent to hold it in place. I imagine that i will get a fair amount of air (much more than b4) into the engine compartment. I have not ridden in summer but can tell this 2012 RT set up runs warm at a standstill and not really thinking the scoops will add much when at idle. I know it isn't what BRP proposes but think it would be somewhat beneficial nonetheless.
    Thoughts?

    Thanks Dave
    2012 RTL 14 RTS , Pearl White @ Pearl White

  2. #2
    Active Member kamper's Avatar
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    I put them on my 2012 last year and they work great, just make sure you take the panels off under the tuperware. Cut the panels. you will be glad you did.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by davev1pa View Post
    I have a 2012 RTL . I bought the air vent kit. What I am pondering is leaving the stock panels in tack. No cutting. Assemble the scoops -permanently so they don't come apart..then on all the surfaces where the scoops are in contact with the panel utilize a double side 3m adhesive tape...along with the screw that goes into the front portion of the vent to hold it in place. I imagine that i will get a fair amount of air (much more than b4) into the engine compartment. I have not ridden in summer but can tell this 2012 RT set up runs warm at a standstill and not really thinking the scoops will add much when at idle. I know it isn't what BRP proposes but think it would be somewhat beneficial nonetheless.
    Thoughts?

    Thanks Dave
    There is a distinct benefit to cutting the panels to facilitate heat dispersion from the engine at idle.

    Should you cut them? It's up to you;
    A. I don't believe resale value will be diminished by this
    B. Be careful with marking the proper location and use a Dremel or similar precision cutting tool.
    2014 RTL Platinum


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    The vents were designed to work with the holes cut in...Plus setting still hot air rises...Riding down the road forces cooler ambient air into scopes...Most dealers had temp-lets when they were doing the recalls on the 2013...Maybe your dealer would let your borrow them or take your panes there and trace the hole opening off the temp-let???

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    Well what I'm hearing is...cut em and do it as BRP proposes... I've just bought the RT a month ago and know it runs a bit hot and b4 summer sets in I want to do something. I was just hoping I could modify and still get good results. The job doesn't seem overwhelming I just don't like the idea of cutting it and was additionally hoping that I could use the scoops in the future on a 14 and up 1330 if that ever came to be...Thanks!!
    2012 RTL 14 RTS , Pearl White @ Pearl White

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    Very Active Member JP58's Avatar
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    I put the scoops on my 15 RTS. I screwed mine down but never cut the panels. I did take the vents out of the panel and also removed the sound panels inside. Mine ran very cool. No heat at all in the glovebox or my seat after the install.
    2018 F3 Limited , Oxford Blue

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    Did you install the batting in the panels? Looks like an adhesive is on the backside like a insulation sheet.
    2012 RTL 14 RTS , Pearl White @ Pearl White

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    Quote Originally Posted by davev1pa View Post
    Did you install the batting in the panels? Looks like an adhesive is on the backside like a insulation sheet.
    The insulation is most important when idling.
    2014 RTL Platinum


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    I installed them on my 2011 and did the cutout. I didn't ride enough after the install to find out if it helped for the heat. I would do the cutout on the V twin models as no company does an update/recall without good reason. It surely keeps the 1330 running cooler but the recall was for the 2013 model year which was a V twin.
    Eckhard

    Spyder RT Ltd, 2011
    2011 RT Ltd. , Pearl White

  10. #10
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    Where can I get these scoops, I have a 2012, didn't really notice the heat until I rode in hot weather, and the blast furnace was hitting my ankle.

    Please help!!!

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    I got mine from a CAN AM dealer a great investment.

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    You wouldn't remember the Part Number?

    My foot will thank you.

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    I got one from here last month.
    https://www.tmsparts.com/oem/canam/219800388

  14. #14
    Active Member trong's Avatar
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    I have a 2013 RT-L and I had the air scoop/heat problem recall performed last year. I have noticed that the little glove box is not as hot as before, also help with the upper body panels. So the scoops definitely help with the hot air flow; also with the recall, a few insulation panels were installed under the tupperware. However, the heat from radiator on the right side is still there heating up your right leg.
    Currently I'm working on redirect hot air to the bottom of the Spyder because on a 85 degree day the ride is not enjoyable after about 20 miles. Some guys here suggest that we could close the exhaust ports on the right cavity where the radiator is. I could not see where the hot air will go, heat will have to dissipate somewhere to help cool down the engine.
    Cheers!
    ‘21 Honda Rebel 1100 DTC Burgundy
    ‘13 Spyder RT-L Pearl White

  15. #15
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trong View Post
    I have a 2013 RT-L and I had the air scoop/heat problem recall performed last year. I have noticed that the little glove box is not as hot as before, also help with the upper body panels. So the scoops definitely help with the hot air flow; also with the recall, a few insulation panels were installed under the tupperware. However, the heat from radiator on the right side is still there heating up your right leg.
    Currently I'm working on redirect hot air to the bottom of the Spyder because on a 85 degree day the ride is not enjoyable after about 20 miles. Some guys here suggest that we could close the exhaust ports on the right cavity where the radiator is. I could not see where the hot air will go, heat will have to dissipate somewhere to help cool down the engine.
    Cheers!
    Same Spyder here, 2013 RT-L - never had any heat issues tho, but it still got the heat recall work done early on.

    When they installed the big air intake ducts on mine, they completely REMOVED the large acoustic/insulation panels that had been under the tupperware, and replaced them with narrow stays/braces instead - a single brace about an inch wide & maybe 12 inches long on each side, instead of the big panels that had been completely covering the top of the engine beforehand. They may have stuck some reflective heat insulation on the inside of the tupperware too tho, I just can't remember any more, it was a few years ago now!

    As for that blast of hot air coming out of the Dragon's Maw onto your right foot, you can buy & modify a RHS Grille for the 2014 Spyders that'll fit in there with a few minor mods which will make it sorta match the other side as well as blocking off the lower hole (behind the spray deflector) and that'll work at forcing the hot air down & out under the Spyder. If you're handy & don't care too much about having the upper grille, you could also just cut & fit a placcy or aluminium filler for that hole (that's what I did! ) Either way, the hot air will either be deflected down & out behind/below the radiator or it'll come up & out thru the upper hole, altho I've never had any issues with any air from that top hole being hot, so I guess that most of it goes out the bottom.

    And if you're REALLY concerned that there isn't enough air-flow on the down & out path, you can either put a few 2" dia holes in the bottom placcy tray, or as some have done, just remove that tray completely (unless the Heat Recall work they've done already did that?!? ) Either way, by closing off the lower opening, the one colloquially known as the Dragon's Maw (or 'mouth', if you prefer the less theatrical term! ) and forcing the hot air coming out of the radiator down & out under the Spyder, maybe thru those additional vent holes if you feel the need, you shouldn't have too much trouble with hot air blowing on your leg ever again.... well, not if you wear appropriate boots & long legged trousers anyway!

    I have seen a few people who still complain about the heat coming out onto their leg down there, but they invariably rode in shorts & often sandals or flip flops (I woulda said 'thongs', cos that's what we call flip flops here, or maybe even 'gedders' - from 'get you to the shower', but that woulda just needlessly confused &/or upset you lot, or maybe made some of you a bit excited! . ) Anyhow, all Spyders, regardless of their year/model have some heat escaping onto your legs etc, that's one of the reasons for always wearing enclosed shoes/boots & long trousers; plus, you just hafta remember that you are straddling the engine, so of course it's going to be hotter on your legs than riding in your cage with a heap of metal between you & the engine & with the A/C blasting out chilled air! Just try lifting the hood (bonnet! ) of your car after driving for a while on a stinking hot day & feeling the heat radiating out - THAT'S how hot it gets between your feet on a Spyder, so they REALLY do pretty damn well at heat dissapation, don't they?!? .

    Still, there's a solution to the hot air blast from the Dragon's Maw, Easy As!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-04-2021 at 09:50 PM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trong View Post
    I have a 2013 RT-L and I had the air scoop/heat problem recall performed last year. I have noticed that the little glove box is not as hot as before, also help with the upper body panels. So the scoops definitely help with the hot air flow; also with the recall, a few insulation panels were installed under the tupperware. However, the heat from radiator on the right side is still there heating up your right leg.
    Currently I'm working on redirect hot air to the bottom of the Spyder because on a 85 degree day the ride is not enjoyable after about 20 miles. Some guys here suggest that we could close the exhaust ports on the right cavity where the radiator is. I could not see where the hot air will go, heat will have to dissipate somewhere to help cool down the engine.
    Cheers!
    Have you taken the bottom right hand belly panel off yet? It's the one up underneath by your brake peddle. I took mine off, it helps a little more!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  17. #17
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    Also on the RH ankle vent hole you can use Spyderpops heat blocker for $34....which is sooo nice
    https://spyderpops.com/spyder-rt-rad...ock-off-plate/
    2012 RTL 14 RTS , Pearl White @ Pearl White

  18. #18
    Active Member trong's Avatar
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    I saw that Spyderpops heat blocker a few weeks ago but haven't really looking into it. Before I saw the heat blocker, I used a piece of thick plastic to cover the lower outlet to see if it helps with the hot air flow direction, did not help covering lower outlet. I then remove the plastic piece and use a piece of metal from a coffee can, straighten it slightly and cut to fit in the upper outlet with two screws, that seem to help. A problem with 2013 RT though. The engineers use a piece of molded plastic to redirect the hot air to the two outlets you see on the right side; even if you remove the plastic cover under the engine, it won't help anything. If you cover the upper larger outlet I don't think there will be enough air flow for the radiator to cool down. What I did was I drilled, VERY VERY CAREFULLY, three 2in holes in that molded plastic cover, toward the back of it, and put the plastic engine cover back on. Seems to work really well but kinda ugly. It's time to order that Spyderpops heat blocker I guess.

    Cheers!
    ‘21 Honda Rebel 1100 DTC Burgundy
    ‘13 Spyder RT-L Pearl White

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