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  1. #1
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    Default P081B Error Code - 2011 Spyder RT

    Good Morning. I am new to the forum. I have a 2011 Spyder RT and you can feel a miss in the engine at idle, the engine light is on and I retrieved the code for the engine code and it gave me a P018B code. I googled the error codes on this machine and have a 55 page list but this particular code is not in it. It has a P018A code in the list but not a P018B code.

    Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    P081B Prestarting relay short to V+

    Possible causes.
    Blown fuse, damaged or disconnected relay, damaged circuit wires, damaged connectors or damaged ECM output pins, damaged headlamp overrun switch.

    Service Actions
    Check fuse.
    Disconnect prestarting relay.
    Measure resistance between terminals 85 and 86 on relay (expected value: 70 to 90 ohms).
    Measure resistance between harness connector FB-C4 and ground (expected value > open).
    Measure resistance from harness connector: ECMB-C4 to FB-C4 (expected value: < 2 ohms).

    I hope this helps

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    P081B Prestarting relay short to V+

    Possible causes.
    Blown fuse, damaged or disconnected relay, damaged circuit wires, damaged connectors or damaged ECM output pins, damaged headlamp overrun switch.

    Service Actions
    Check fuse.
    Disconnect prestarting relay.
    Measure resistance between terminals 85 and 86 on relay (expected value: 70 to 90 ohms).
    Measure resistance between harness connector FB-C4 and ground (expected value > open).
    Measure resistance from harness connector: ECMB-C4 to FB-C4 (expected value: < 2 ohms).

    I hope this helps
    Ok I will try this. Wonder if it will take care of the miss also. Thanks for the info, I will post the results soon.

  4. #4
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    Based on the circuit in question, probably won't take care of a miss. When my 998cc started getting a miss I ordered the plug & wire kit from bajaron (sponsor here) off EBay. Wires are way heavier, plugs are iridium fine tip. Miss went away. Also if you haven't you must replace the 3mmID x 5mmOD vacuum lines on the left side at carb. They will crack and cause a miss. Plenty of info here & YouTube.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevencovert View Post
    Based on the circuit in question, probably won't take care of a miss. When my 998cc started getting a miss I ordered the plug & wire kit from bajaron (sponsor here) off EBay. Wires are way heavier, plugs are iridium fine tip. Miss went away. Also if you haven't you must replace the 3mmID x 5mmOD vacuum lines on the left side at carb. They will crack and cause a miss. Plenty of info here & YouTube.
    ok Great...that is good information. I am about to tear the plastic off of it and see what I can find out.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    P081B Prestarting relay short to V+

    Possible causes.
    Blown fuse, damaged or disconnected relay, damaged circuit wires, damaged connectors or damaged ECM output pins, damaged headlamp overrun switch.

    Service Actions
    Check fuse.
    Disconnect prestarting relay.
    Measure resistance between terminals 85 and 86 on relay (expected value: 70 to 90 ohms).
    Measure resistance between harness connector FB-C4 and ground (expected value > open).
    Measure resistance from harness connector: ECMB-C4 to FB-C4 (expected value: < 2 ohms).

    I hope this helps
    Where is the FB-C4 connector and the ECMB-C4 connector?
    Thanks,

  7. #7
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    I don't have time to look it up. But I will assume that FB is fuse box and ECMB is the engine control module.

    May I suggest if you are getting this deep. Get yourself a digital copy of the service and repair manual. Not very expensive. Can be download in a short period of time depending on your internet speed.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Right. This is not a very common code, bluegrass. One post from back in 2013 indicates that the problem was solved by simply replacing the Pre-Starting Relay - which is R2. Relays are in the front fuse box with the fuses. Relay numbers are labeled on the cover. I would do that before I got into removing connectors from the ECM. You don't have to get them through BRP. Folks have gotten them from an auto parts store. A bad relay is much more common than a harness problem, unless you have reason to believe that you've had harness damage. Come to think of it, you could do a quick and dirty check by removing R2 and moving R1 into the R2 position temporarily. They are the same relay type. Your air compressor won't run, but you could see if the code clears. If you don't have the air compressor system and no R1, you can do the same thing with your headlight relay R6...or if you don't want to do any swapping, just get a new relay and eliminate that potential cause.


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

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  9. #9
    Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    Spyder Relay
    From another Spyder owner:

    MasterPro Ignition part BWD REF: R3110 (SMP REF: RY-232) is exactly the same as the relay in our Spyder. This relay can be purchased at Murray’s. We compared the relay in the Spyder with the BWD: R3110. They are identical…including the schematic drawing, as well as the amperage at each terminal/prong.


    Rodger at NordRide in Mount Morris, MI says the OEM relay we got at Murray’s is good. He also said that BRP sells this part for about $10.00. Now whether this price is to the dealers or the consumer, I don’t know. With that said, Murray’s sells it for around $9.00.

    Seems like the common one is the
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  10. #10
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    I will see if one of our local auto parts stores has a replacement. Now, after I replace this do I have to clear the code manually or will it clear itself?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    P081B Prestarting relay short to V+

    Possible causes.
    Blown fuse, damaged or disconnected relay, damaged circuit wires, damaged connectors or damaged ECM output pins, damaged headlamp overrun switch.

    Service Actions
    Check fuse.
    Disconnect prestarting relay.
    Measure resistance between terminals 85 and 86 on relay (expected value: 70 to 90 ohms).
    Measure resistance between harness connector FB-C4 and ground (expected value > open).
    Measure resistance from harness connector: ECMB-C4 to FB-C4 (expected value: < 2 ohms).

    I hope this helps
    Th resistance between terminals 85-86 was 130.2 ohms

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluegrass2020 View Post
    I will see if one of our local auto parts stores has a replacement. Now, after I replace this do I have to clear the code manually or will it clear itself?
    Quote Originally Posted by bluegrass2020 View Post
    Th resistance between terminals 85-86 was 130.2 ohms
    Resistance Hi out of spec, just as it was in that other post. Yep, replace it. The code will clear itself if this is the root cause of the problem. You may have to ride it of awhile, turn it off and remove the key for 10 or 15 minutes and then come back and restart. I know - having to remove the key doesn't make any sense, but there's so much anecdotal evidence out there that it sometimes works, thought I would mention it.


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

    Original Owner

    Seal Pups, F4 Customs SWCV, Corbin, JT's Air Filter, Cat Bypass, Power Commander V, NBV, SpyderFlap, Rivco Dual Flag Holder, Lidlox, Baja Ron Sway Bar, links, plugs and wires, Adjustable Chrome Side Vents, Spyderpops Block Off Plate and Belt Guard, Bump Skid, Canisterectomy, Akrapovic, TricLed HL/FL, Spyder Cuff with X-Grip, S-Drive, Rock Armour, P238, Laser Alignment by Gray Ghost, Windshield Arm by Noboot, Vibration Dampener by Doc.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder View Post
    Resistance Hi out of spec, just as it was in that other post. Yep, replace it. The code will clear itself if this is the root cause of the problem. You may have to ride it of awhile, turn it off and remove the key for 10 or 15 minutes and then come back and restart. I know - having to remove the key doesn't make any sense, but there's so much anecdotal evidence out there that it sometimes works, thought I would mention it.
    Just out of curiosity, I checked the ohms on the new relay before installing and it was the same resistance. 132ohms

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    That IS interesting. And the code?


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

    Original Owner

    Seal Pups, F4 Customs SWCV, Corbin, JT's Air Filter, Cat Bypass, Power Commander V, NBV, SpyderFlap, Rivco Dual Flag Holder, Lidlox, Baja Ron Sway Bar, links, plugs and wires, Adjustable Chrome Side Vents, Spyderpops Block Off Plate and Belt Guard, Bump Skid, Canisterectomy, Akrapovic, TricLed HL/FL, Spyder Cuff with X-Grip, S-Drive, Rock Armour, P238, Laser Alignment by Gray Ghost, Windshield Arm by Noboot, Vibration Dampener by Doc.

  15. #15
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    How old is the battery? If it is on the way out or the connections are not tight, when you are starting the engine, the voltage will be brought down low and you may experience electrically related codes that may in fact not be actual problems. I experienced two codes that popped up when working on my RT last month that went away once the battery was replaced and the bike run for a bit.

    As for swapping plugs, wires and vac hoses, I just finished all that up on my bike. Not a fun job, you have to take the bike half apart to access the front cylinder. I documented it here if you are interested, since I didnt see that much out on the web showing what is involved: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ance-on-the-RT
    2009 BMW R1200RT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 Honda Silverwing, 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)


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