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Thread: Nitrous?

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    Active Member Revalden's Avatar
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    Default Nitrous?

    Can these 1330s handle nitrous bursts? And where would you install the injector nozzle?
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revalden View Post
    Can these 1330s handle nitrous bursts? And where would you install the injector nozzle?
    The million dollar question ….. I have not heard of anyone here trying this …. so I think you be the test case ….. good luck ….. Mike

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    Very Active Member hypurone's Avatar
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    Being that you would have to tune the ECM for a dry shot and I know of no one doing it, you would need to do wet. Which presents its own probs as there is no "specific" spray plate/nozzle for these critters that I know of! There is stuff for the offroad Can Am products but their displacements are usually smaller, so smaller nozzles/fuel pumps etc. Nitrous is risky business when unable to actually tune for it...

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    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Having had a N02 kit on a vehicle, I'd wager the motor is strong enough, the FRONT SPROCKET--- not so much.
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in circuit yellow, farkeling addiction down to once every few months.ECU FLASH IS GREAT.

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    Active Member Revalden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    The million dollar question ….. I have not heard of anyone here trying this …. so I think you be the test case ….. good luck ….. Mike
    Several years ago when my son was 16 he got into lawn mower drag racing. He usually won his class(single cylinder) because he was at least 100lbs lighter than the other riders. When he was old enough to race against the 2 cylinders machines we had to give him a boost. It was a CO2 size container with a trigger attached to the steering wheel. When he pulled it the engine would take off like a scalded cat. He loved it. I think the contraption is still around somewhere.
    2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium color front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)(13,200@9/16/2019)
    All of the following items installed by me:
    Passenger Arm Rests, Windshield Air Wing
    Baja Ron's Sway Bar, Baja Ron's Spring Adjusters
    Air Scoops, LaMonster's Hiway Pegs
    Magnetic Mirror Mounts, Air Innovations Seat Cushion
    Red Chrome pin striping on Black hood
    Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires (they're GREAT)
    Kumho Ecsta AST KU25 All-Season Tire - 225/50R15 91H (9/14/19)
    Small LED bars above radiator inlets
    LED brake/running/turn signals on license plate frame
    Northern Tool Tag-Along trailer
    LED headlight bulbs, LED fog lights (WOW what a difference)
    2" x 2" Road Lights on inside front fenders
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    Active Member Revalden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lew L View Post
    Having had a N02 kit on a vehicle, I'd wager the motor is strong enough, the FRONT SPROCKET--- not so much.
    Isn't there a front sprocket upgrade available?
    2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium color front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)(13,200@9/16/2019)
    All of the following items installed by me:
    Passenger Arm Rests, Windshield Air Wing
    Baja Ron's Sway Bar, Baja Ron's Spring Adjusters
    Air Scoops, LaMonster's Hiway Pegs
    Magnetic Mirror Mounts, Air Innovations Seat Cushion
    Red Chrome pin striping on Black hood
    Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires (they're GREAT)
    Kumho Ecsta AST KU25 All-Season Tire - 225/50R15 91H (9/14/19)
    Small LED bars above radiator inlets
    LED brake/running/turn signals on license plate frame
    Northern Tool Tag-Along trailer
    LED headlight bulbs, LED fog lights (WOW what a difference)
    2" x 2" Road Lights on inside front fenders
    7' x 10' enclosed Cargo trailer
    Garmin 396 LM GPS

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    Active Member Revalden's Avatar
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    I guess I'll just hafta go with a ecu flash. Maybe ask them if they can program in a nitrous switch so that I can dust off my HD friends at traffic signs/lights.
    2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium color front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)(13,200@9/16/2019)
    All of the following items installed by me:
    Passenger Arm Rests, Windshield Air Wing
    Baja Ron's Sway Bar, Baja Ron's Spring Adjusters
    Air Scoops, LaMonster's Hiway Pegs
    Magnetic Mirror Mounts, Air Innovations Seat Cushion
    Red Chrome pin striping on Black hood
    Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires (they're GREAT)
    Kumho Ecsta AST KU25 All-Season Tire - 225/50R15 91H (9/14/19)
    Small LED bars above radiator inlets
    LED brake/running/turn signals on license plate frame
    Northern Tool Tag-Along trailer
    LED headlight bulbs, LED fog lights (WOW what a difference)
    2" x 2" Road Lights on inside front fenders
    7' x 10' enclosed Cargo trailer
    Garmin 396 LM GPS

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revalden View Post
    I guess I'll just hafta go with a ecu flash. Maybe ask them if they can program in a nitrous switch so that I can dust off my HD friends at traffic signs/lights.
    …. I've stated this in other threads …. old school carbs, cranks, heads etc. could be fiddled with …. but todays computers makes doing anything similar almost impossible ….. That said, programming the ECU to accept different parameters is the only way to go ….. visit " Monster Fuel " …. they have been very successful …… good luck …. Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Revalden View Post
    I guess I'll just hafta go with a ecu flash. Maybe ask them if they can program in a nitrous switch so that I can dust off my HD friends at traffic signs/lights.
    Don't do it! Especially a so called dry system!
    If I were going to put N20 on my 1330 if I had one which I don't. I have a 998. I would run a stand alone system, N20 and fuel solenoids, separate fuel pump, separate arm and trigger switch. I would drill and tap each intake runner for the 1/8 pipe thread injectors 2 per runner, don't tap too deep as you don't want the threads protruding into the runners, just the tip, with jets directed toward head. I always used the small brass injectors and used pin drills to adjust my HP. I always used the small Teflon 3/16" lines not the braided stainless, run the stainless to the bottle. I would likely start with a .012 N20 and .016 fuel size which should be around 20 HP or so. Run the equal length fuel and N20 lines, I usually made the N20 lines slightly longer than the fuel around 3-6". Then the lines connect to the fuel and N20 distribution blocks which are connected to each solenoid. The fuel solenoid is directly connected to the separate fuel pump, I used a small Facet. You need a separate fuel supply for the N20 fuel pump. Run the stainless line from N20 solenoid to the bottle mount position. Then wire the electronics, arm switch that turns fuel pump on and arms solenoids and activation switch. Losing fuel pressure will melt all kinds of goodies in the engine like a cutting torch!

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    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hypurone View Post
    Being that you would have to tune the ECM for a dry shot and I know of no one doing it, you would need to do wet. Which presents its own probs as there is no "specific" spray plate/nozzle for these critters that I know of! There is stuff for the offroad Can Am products but their displacements are usually smaller, so smaller nozzles/fuel pumps etc. Nitrous is risky business when unable to actually tune for it...
    I have the opposite experience----I know only those who use the dry shot from a 2 lb or 5 lb bottle on motorcycles. Injection turn on is usually done manually via a button-switch but can be programmed to come on at a certain RPM & WOT. Most riders just plum the NOS jet into the airbox or use multiple injectors over the intake throttle body. They usually don't modify the ECU fuel parameters for the NOS assist. Many of them do retard the timing 2-3 degrees toward the top rpm which does prevent the heat from melting the valve seat out of the aluminum heads(I've done it twice land speed racing a mile track on abandoned air strips--crossed the 132' timing traps at 193 mph & 196 mph on 3 out of 4 cylinders. Also dry NOS is inexpensive compared to Wet NOS or turbo-superchargers. Other than the drag strip--how often would Spyder riders be at WOT & predetermined RPM with a limited supply of NOS? Darrell

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    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    What is the point anyway? If it is just to make it faster than the friends with Harleys.......... it already is faster than most of them when it is bone stock. Just a few modifications not involving NOS and it would be faster that all but the most radical Harley builds. The 1330 is a balanced engine that will turn up twice the RPMs that a Harley could. It has more rubber on the road and stability when the rear tire breaks loose. The F3-S is also lighter than the full dressed Harleys. The only one that has a chance of hanging with a 1330 would be a modified Sportster. Unless you are trying to see which one can make the most noise, the 1330 is already the winner. I have nothing against Harley. I rode them for several decades. They are just ancient, pushrod engines that can't turn the RPMs that even a stock Spyder can and most weigh a lot more than the Spyder.

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    Active Member cruisinTX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    What is the point anyway? If it is just to make it faster than the friends with Harleys.......... it already is faster than most of them when it is bone stock. Just a few modifications not involving NOS and it would be faster that all but the most radical Harley builds. The 1330 is a balanced engine that will turn up twice the RPMs that a Harley could. It has more rubber on the road and stability when the rear tire breaks loose. The F3-S is also lighter than the full dressed Harleys. The only one that has a chance of hanging with a 1330 would be a modified Sportster. Unless you are trying to see which one can make the most noise, the 1330 is already the winner. I have nothing against Harley. I rode them for several decades. They are just ancient, pushrod engines that can't turn the RPMs that even a stock Spyder can and most weigh a lot more than the Spyder.


    yep, I agree with Gwolf here.

    I guess I'm just not a speed or race junkie so I totally do not understand the need to even consider doing something like this to a machine that is already pretty quick off the line and will no doubt out pace most Harleys from start to top end. There are a few HDs that might hang; like the Sportser mentioned and a V-rod. But beyond the first 200 to 300 yards HDs lose steam pretty quickly. And again; what's the point--a need to puff up your chest or ?????? all the while possibly doing irreparable damage to a $30K machine that is already has pretty good performance.

    Those who say " I can't" will always be right.

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    Active Member bayoubill's Avatar
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    you guys must not have ridden a harley lately, they aren't the old slow lose steam in a few hundred yard bikes they used to be.
    2015 rs

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    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    Yeah, I have been riding with the new Harleys and Indians.............. take it out of eco mode.

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    Hmmm... I have a mildly built 103" in my 2009 FLHT. Nothing crazy, and it dyno's (FuelMoto dyno-tune) at 110hp/115tq. Don't think my F3-S would hang with it. Certainly not with my buddies and their 114"/117" builds
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    you should have went with monster stage two then

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    What is the point anyway? [COLOR="#FF0000"]
    The OP Wants to!

    If it is just to make it faster than the friends with Harleys..........
    That is what the OP stated!

    it already is faster than most of them when it is bone stock.
    MMMMM not so much!

    Just a few modifications not involving NOS and it would be faster that all but the most radical Harley builds.
    MMMMM not so much! I have a 2002 Softail 95" mild modifications built by myself and a very mild 2013 Road Glide built by myself, Bring your Spyder and a bag of $$ and I will debate!




    The 1330 is a balanced engine that will turn up twice the RPMs that a Harley could.
    Rpm is not necessary for torue or horsepower!


    It has more rubber on the road and stability when the rear tire breaks loose. The F3-S is also lighter than the full dressed Harleys.
    Not every Harley is full dressed nor is every Spyder!

    The only one that has a chance of hanging with a 1330 would be a modified Sportster.
    Again not true!! But I also have a 2003 Sportster in the build stages that will be quite quick!


    Unless you are trying to see which one can make the most noise, the 1330 is already the winner.
    Touche'!


    I have nothing against Harley. I rode them for several decades. They are just ancient, pushrod engines that can't turn the RPMs that even a stock Spyder can and most weigh a lot more than the Spyder.
    Again, bring your Spyder and a bag of $$$ and we shall see??

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    Quote Originally Posted by bayoubill View Post
    you guys must not have ridden a harley lately, they aren't the old slow lose steam in a few hundred yard bikes they used to be.
    exactly!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by troop View Post
    Hmmm... I have a mildly built 103" in my 2009 FLHT. Nothing crazy, and it dyno's (FuelMoto dyno-tune) at 110hp/115tq. Don't think my F3-S would hang with it. Certainly not with my buddies and their 114"/117" builds
    You would be correct sir!
    Sometimes folks offer incorrect information to someone seeking knowledge then it snowballs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    …. I've stated this in other threads …. old school carbs, cranks, heads etc. could be fiddled with …. but todays computers makes doing anything similar almost impossible ….. That said, programming the ECU to accept different parameters is the only way to go ….. visit " Monster Fuel " …. they have been very successful …… good luck …. Mike
    Todays ECUs make it possible to make extreme amounts of horsepower and extract every ounce but are a bit more complicated and scare most folks. Look at a Pro street Suzuki Hayabusa for instance 6.40 sec 230+ mph in a 1/4 mile and on a 7" dot tire with no wheelie bar. Hard to tailor and control 700+ HP to do that without electronics. I should have said probably impossible! These are not race bikes nor is there any support for performance as the want or need is not there. Program the ECU and add your favorite exhaust and CUPHOLDER and enjoy!

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    aka: akspyderman ARtraveler's Avatar
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    An interesting subject here. Discussion great!

    Let me take you back to the archives. 2010--DocDuru. He was considered very in the know. He had a 2008 GS I believe. His goal was to make it much faster. He was into turbo charging, but not nitrous. He got the speed, but destroyed his engine in the process. BRP gave no warranty help on that one.

    I know we are comparing apples and oranges here. Different engine, different method of propulsion, but kind of the same goal.

    Being conservative, I would not try nitrous in my Spyders. But, who am I to say?


    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium). 6 Spyders, 11 years, 152,900 miles


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    Quote Originally Posted by ARtraveler View Post
    An interesting subject here. Discussion great!

    Let me take you back to the archives. 2010--DocDuru. He was considered very in the know. He had a 2008 GS I believe. His goal was to make it much faster. He was into turbo charging, but not nitrous. He got the speed, but destroyed his engine in the process. BRP gave no warranty help on that one.

    I know we are comparing apples and oranges here. Different engine, different method of propulsion, but kind of the same goal.

    Being conservative, I would not try nitrous in my Spyders. But, who am I to say?

    Yup! Turbo is the way to go to make HP. Very expensive though! Then you get a bit too happy with the boost and lean it too much and back to the drawing board. These bikes are made for us old folks to attach our cup holders to! No aftermarket support for necessary goodies to go fast. Yes we could make them but why? There are an abundance of goodies available for other bikes.

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    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sputter View Post
    Todays ECUs make it possible to make extreme amounts of horsepower and extract every ounce but are a bit more complicated and scare most folks. Look at a Pro street Suzuki Hayabusa for instance 6.40 sec 230+ mph in a 1/4 mile and on a 7" dot tire with no wheelie bar. Hard to tailor and control 700+ HP to do that without electronics. I should have said probably impossible! These are not race bikes nor is there any support for performance as the want or need is not there. Program the ECU and add your favorite exhaust and CUPHOLDER and enjoy!
    The 1st guy with a street bike to do the 1/4 mi under 7.00 Sec record was Ryan Schnitz--6.90 sec at 204?? mph . It wasn't accomplished by power alone---clutch setup put Ryan in Guiness Book of Records..

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    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Revalden View Post
    Can these 1330s handle nitrous bursts? And where would you install the injector nozzle?
    Airbox or individual injectors over throttle body's.
    Darrell

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sputter View Post
    Todays ECUs make it possible to make extreme amounts of horsepower and extract every ounce but are a bit more complicated and scare most folks. Look at a Pro street Suzuki Hayabusa for instance 6.40 sec 230+ mph in a 1/4 mile and on a 7" dot tire with no wheelie bar. Hard to tailor and control 700+ HP to do that without electronics. I should have said probably impossible! These are not race bikes nor is there any support for performance as the want or need is not there. Program the ECU and add your favorite exhaust and CUPHOLDER and enjoy!
    ….. But the Spyders " ECU " as set-up for BRP by Bosche …. Will always try to go back to the original parameters in the original design..... " MonsterFuel " is the only system that will work ….. IMHO ….. Mike

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