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  1. #1
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    Default brake failure light again 6 months later 2008 SM5

    Hey everyone-

    Six months ago, I had this issue, ended up bleeding the brakes and it went away.

    I park the ol' spyder in the summer because it gets too hot to ride here in the desert but the weather is starting to get nice again, so took her out for a ride last week and that silly light came on again and I was getting the C1282 code.

    I checked the fluid levels and the floats both are okay.

    I was able to clear the code, but the light is still on.

    Could I need to bleed the brakes again? They seem to be working fine.

    Any other ideas?

    Your help here is always appreciated

    Thanks Jeff

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Little checking.....

    Did you remove the key and give the spyder time for the computer reset...? If not start her up let her run a few minutes shut her down and remove the key. Have a beer/cup of coffee then return and restart. Remember that that light comes on for many reasons...burned out bulbs, ryding with foot on the brake pedal, sticking or bad brake light switch, warn pads etc. Others have suggested disconnecting the battery for a bit as well though I have always been able to do it with the computer reset....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Default

    Hey Jeff. So, did Gene's suggestion work? What do you mean when you said that the floats are OK, regarding the fluid level. You're going to want the tops of the floats to be a bit higher than that outer plastic ring that surrounds them. Is that what you have?


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

    Original Owner

    Seal Pups, F4 Customs SWCV, Corbin, JT's Air Filter, Cat Bypass, Power Commander V, NBV, SpyderFlap, Rivco Dual Flag Holder, Lidlox, Baja Ron Sway Bar, links, plugs and wires, Adjustable Chrome Side Vents, Spyderpops Block Off Plate and Belt Guard, Bump Skid, Canisterectomy, Akrapovic, TricLed HL/FL, Spyder Cuff with X-Grip, S-Drive, Rock Armour, P238, Laser Alignment by Gray Ghost, Windshield Arm by Noboot, Vibration Dampener by Doc.

  4. #4
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    Default

    No go so far with the run her for a bit and the key removal

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder View Post
    Hey Jeff. So, did Gene's suggestion work? What do you mean when you said that the floats are OK, regarding the fluid level. You're going to want the tops of the floats to be a bit higher than that outer plastic ring that surrounds them. Is that what you have?
    Yes Sir...that how the floats are looking

  6. #6
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    Default

    I read somewhere someone disconnected the electrical connector to the parking brake and reconnected and it took care of the problem for them. My parking brake has never worked correctly, so maybe it is something to do with that.
    Or maybe some bubbles in the brake line?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by sockeye342 View Post
    I read somewhere someone disconnected the electrical connector to the parking brake and reconnected and it took care of the problem for them. My parking brake has never worked correctly, so maybe it is something to do with that.
    Or maybe some bubbles in the brake line?
    It could be air in the braking line... if you ride "hard" and you are constantly on the brakes and you also are in a very hot area, then getting the brake fluid to boil is quite easy.
    Maybe upgrade the brake fluid to a higher grade? Something like a MOTUL RBF 600 (I personally used this on most of my cars when I was going at the track - boiling point is somewhere around 325C).

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrNewt View Post
    It could be air in the braking line... if you ride "hard" and you are constantly on the brakes and you also are in a very hot area, then getting the brake fluid to boil is quite easy.
    Maybe upgrade the brake fluid to a higher grade? Something like a MOTUL RBF 600 (I personally used this on most of my cars when I was going at the track - boiling point is somewhere around 325C).
    Well I am a big guy with a lot of weight to stop and I like to accelerate hard, so I probably brake hard too, so I will give it a shot this weekend

  9. #9
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    Default

    Bleed the brakes again. I had a lot of Pentosin DOT 4 LV left over from when I did the brake bleed back in March, so I used it again...did the LPS reset and the brake failure light went out. Pedal is very solid now too

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sockeye342 View Post
    Bleed the brakes again. I had a lot of Pentosin DOT 4 LV left over from when I did the brake bleed back in March, so I used it again...did the LPS reset and the brake failure light went out. Pedal is very solid now too
    By left over you mean opened or unopened containers?

    I hope unopened. Glad to hear your brakes are normal again though! .

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrNewt View Post
    By left over you mean opened or unopened containers?

    I hope unopened. Glad to hear your brakes are normal again though! .
    Yes sir...new unused containers

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