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  1. #1
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    Default Spyder RT Scrapes on Trailer - But Not the Nose

    This last week we trailered our RT on our Drop-Tail trailer up to Page, Arizona, for some riding out to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and in the Kanab, Utah, area. No problem loading the Spyder at home or unloading in Arizona [once there, the area was truly beautiful and a really nice place to ride ... 68 degrees and sunny at the North Rim with the smell of pine]. Re-loading in Arizona also went well with no problems and trailering home went well, but when unloading upon arrival home I had a problem: When I lowered the "drop-tail" and began to back the Spyder down, something "caught." See photo. I raised the tail of the trailer a couple of inches to where the damaged piece got over the joint and thus got the Spyder off the trailer; however at that point I realized that my Spyder would no longer go into reverse. It would only go into Neutral. Since it would still operate in the forward gears with no issue, I rode it over to the dealer where it now sits for analysis and repair. Two comments:

    1) I'd ridden the Spyder on and off the trailer several times without any trouble both before this trip and during the trip and never had anything scrape, let alone "catch" on the trailer. The tires were all full at BRP-recommended air pressure. The only thing I can think of that was different was that I had "softened" the adjustable air spring during the trip to give my wife a more comfortable ride and didn't reset it (ours is the 2017 model RTS with a rocker switch to control this). I now assume this also "lowered" the Spyder to the ground. But I swear it didn't scrape when loading the Spyder in Arizona and it was the same setting there. ??????

    2) What is this piece that was damaged? I don't understand how it could cause me to lose my reverse (only) while leaving all the forward gears intact. If I try to put it in reverse right now, it will only move to Neutral. Anybody have any ideas what went wrong? The service manager at first thought that maybe a wire got cut and maybe it's a simple repair and they could bend the piece back where it belongs, but then he started off on the usual "but this" and "but that." Their Spyder tech is tied up and I won't hear back from them for at least a week.
    Damage.jpg

  2. #2
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    Thinks its a brake switch but have to look it up to be sure.

  3. #3
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    Bummer. It looks like it might be the brake switch if it's on the right side near the driver floorboards.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    I am pretty sure it is the reverse interlock or lockout switch. Mine has had to be replaced twice, although I have not hit or scraped anything.
    2015 F3-S Can-Am Red, SE6

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    2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER View Post
    I am pretty sure it is the reverse interlock or lockout switch. Mine has had to be replaced twice, although I have not hit or scraped anything.
    Thanks - That makes a lot of sense to me since it's my reverse gear that's not working but everything else IS working. Hopefully they have the part in stock and it's not too difficult to replace.

  6. #6
    Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    I think you are right about the softening of the shock may have been the cause!! the ramp may have been a little steeper than before and with the soft shock there you go! That's one thing I came say about the can-am, they are a little low to the ground, and you have to always keep that in mind when your running around, speed bumps, gravel roads, ect!! Good Luck hope they get you back soon!

  7. #7
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    I was looking at putting mine on a trailer. Now I am not so sure if they are going to be that tempramental about loading and unloading.
    Need to do more traveling

  8. #8
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lonestar2112 View Post
    I was looking at putting mine on a trailer. Now I am not so sure if they are going to be that tempramental about loading and unloading.
    Actually they aren't ….. the above incident is something I haven't heard about happening to others and I'm on this Forum 24 - 7 …… Mike

  9. #9
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    I have an enclosed utility trailer that is set up for carrying Jeeps and M/C's I figured that would be a good trailer to carry the Spyder in.
    Need to do more traveling

  10. #10
    Very Active Member AbNormy's Avatar
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    Default Droptail

    Friends offering to let us use his Droptail but would sure like to hear what they say caused this before we do...hope you get it figured out keep us posted!
    2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2012 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled

  11. #11
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    I agree with Blueknight. I don't think this is going to be a repeat problem. I had been focused only on rubbing the nose and that was a mistake. The nose wasn't the problem, it was the middle and that's largely due to the design of the Drop-Tail trailer -- and I'm not slamming Drop-Tail for that either (I have some issues with their quality and customer service but not the basic design or construction). Mainly, this was a learning experience. I know now (a) don't reduce the pressure on the air shock to the minimum (a/k/a "softening") before loading and unloading, and (b) even if I didn't do (a) I could still have avoided the problem by not lowering the dropped tail all the way to the ground before starting to back. In fact, that's how I got the Spyder off the trailer after this incident - I raised the tail a bit, just enough to clear the thingie that was hanging down, then lowered the tail the rest of the way and then it was smooth. However, I really think that (a) is the most important. You live and learn.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsimion View Post
    I agree with Blueknight. I don't think this is going to be a repeat problem. I had been focused only on rubbing the nose and that was a mistake. The nose wasn't the problem, it was the middle and that's largely due to the design of the Drop-Tail trailer -- and I'm not slamming Drop-Tail for that either (I have some issues with their quality and customer service but not the basic design or construction). Mainly, this was a learning experience. I know now (a) don't reduce the pressure on the air shock to the minimum (a/k/a "softening") before loading and unloading, and (b) even if I didn't do (a) I could still have avoided the problem by not lowering the dropped tail all the way to the ground before starting to back. In fact, that's how I got the Spyder off the trailer after this incident - I raised the tail a bit, just enough to clear the thingie that was hanging down, then lowered the tail the rest of the way and then it was smooth. However, I really think that (a) is the most important. You live and learn.
    ……..Glad to hear you got it figured out …… What exactly was the damage ???? ….. Mike

  13. #13
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    The low clearance is absolutely an issue. I just got my new 2018 RT-L home for the first time and went to unload it from my trailer and I bent the same bracket losing all power to everything except the horn. Couldn't change gears or see anything on the dash or start it up to change gears. After a quick trip to the dealer to get it replaced and the fuse replaced, I had to jack up the front of the trailer to reduce the loading ramp angle, as well as use boards to increase the ramp length. Looking for a long wide folding aluminum ramp for possible future trips in the trailer.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenngo View Post
    The low clearance is absolutely an issue. I just got my new 2018 RT-L home for the first time and went to unload it from my trailer and I bent the same bracket losing all power to everything except the horn. Couldn't change gears or see anything on the dash or start it up to change gears. After a quick trip to the dealer to get it replaced and the fuse replaced, I had to jack up the front of the trailer to reduce the loading ramp angle, as well as use boards to increase the ramp length. Looking for a long wide folding aluminum ramp for possible future trips in the trailer.
    Glenn, sorry to hear that misery loves company. How did you get the damage fixed? My Spyder is still at the dealer waiting for diagnosis, let alone repair. At least my only problem was the reverse not working. I think I still would have avoided that issue if I stupidly hadn't continued on after it hit the first time. It was just a gentle tap at first because I was going really slowly ... I stopped,put it in neutral, put on the parking brake and looked to see if I had forgotten a strap. At that point I wasn't yet a complete idiot. I became a complete idiot when I then continued to back up notwithstanding the fact I had never figured out what it had hit. Dunno what I was thinking ... my excuse for not being sharp is 300 nonstop miles on the road. At least I'll never make that same mistake again! Lots of others, I'm sure ... just not that one!

  15. #15
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    Where is this low-hanging part exactly? I can't tell from the picture or description. Thanks.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
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  16. #16
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    left side of the bike under side. You have to get way down to see it.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    left side of the bike under side. You have to get way down to see it.
    Thanks. Why would it be so susceptible to getting hung up on the ramp as OP has described?

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
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  18. #18
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Thanks. Why would it be so susceptible to getting hung up on the ramp as OP has described?
    Believe he lowered the bag pressure a bit which lowered the bike and while loading it on the trailer it got caught on something.

  19. #19
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    The bracket only gets hung up baking up. if you are going forward, it just gets brushed. But, when backing up, the end that hangs down is a sharp edge, and there are several wires exposed as well.

  20. #20
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    When I am looking at the side where does this hang down at? Like to know where to be concerned as I try to load the bike.
    Need to do more traveling

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by lonestar2112 View Post
    When I am looking at the side where does this hang down at? Like to know where to be concerned as I try to load the bike.
    The damaged piece appears to be a bracket to hold electrical stuff (?) and it is basically underneath the left side front footboard (left as you're sitting on the Spyder). Trikermutha describes the situation perfectly. Glenngo is also correct, this bracket is not a problem moving forward because the bracket is only attached at the front side; when going forward it might touch the ground (or trailer) but would just rub. Going backwards is different because the back part of the bracket is kind of hanging there unattached. What happened to me (and apparently to Glenngo) is that when I let the air out of the air suspension, that lowered the back (unattached) side of the bracket just enough to catch on the joint between the front and back part of the Drop-Tail trailer (if you don't know, the Drop-Tail is sort of a split trailer where the back wheel of the Spyder is on a different part of the trailer that drops down to load and unload). Even though he doesn't have a Drop-Tail, it sounds like Glenngo's experience was similar to mine.

  22. #22
    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    Its about mid way on the bike you can see the cat in the original post in the back ground of the picture.

    Well its the electric reverse module. Had the Spyder apart and got to see the whole picture

    20190630_085929[7255].jpg

  23. #23
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    Update: Finally got the Spyder back today (in fairness to the dealer, it was finished three weeks ago just as we were leaving to go overseas and so it sat on their lot for all that time). The repair ticket states, "Technician inspected and found reverse actuator and bracket twisted and disconnected, took apart and corrected and reassembled. Reverse is working on unit." Rode Spyder home today, everything working normally so apparently the repair was successful. Repair cost was $226.61 for labor (no new parts required). A little expensive but I can't complain because when I brought it in, it looked like it was going to be complicated and I also appreciate that they didn't try to gig me for unnecessary parts. I bought the Spyder to ride and now it's back on the road and that's what is important. That, and learning how to back the Spyder off the trailer properly!

  24. #24
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Is there a reason why when loading/unloading you couldn't use a board under the rear tire to raise the spyder a little?
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    Is there a reason why when loading/unloading you couldn't use a board under the rear tire to raise the spyder a little?
    Could have, but (a) I had loaded and unloaded it twice before without scraping anything, and had loaded it four hours before without scraping anything, and (b) because of (a) I just didn't think of it. The difference between this time and previous times - and I believe the true cause of the incident - was that this time I had lowered the air pressure for the air spring in back to give a soft ride for my wife and didn't increase it back up before unloading. Apparently this lowered the rear of the Spyder just enough for the part to catch. I don't really need a board with the Drop-Tail, I just need to be careful and pay attention. I am well aware of how stupid I was with this incident.

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