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  1. #1
    Active Member MagYukon's Avatar
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    Default Metal Clunk sound when hitting a hole with rear wheel

    Hi,

    with my F3T 2016, Since a few weeks, I can hear a strange metal clunk sound when hitting a big hole with the rear wheel.

    It just feels like if something is loose and 2 metal pieces hits together making that kind of metal sound.

    I only hear it when hitting something that can make the rear suspension retract probably completely.

    After a quick check, I haven't seen anything loose on the Spyder.

    Anybody ever experienced something like this ?

    What can it be ?

    Thanks !
    X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Is there air in the rear air spring? 40 to 50 psi?

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    If you don't think you are bottoming out, it could be your rear shock mount bolts are loose/bent or that a rubber grommet on your shock end is split or worn out. A number of possibilities here.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  4. #4
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    The original rear shock on my 2013 RT broke at about 40,000km - the shaft completely parted company with the upper eye where they were supposedly 'welded' together. On checking, it was pretty obvious that the weld that 'broke' had never been even 1/4 complete, and there was actually only quite a tiny sliver of welded metal keeping the whole thing together.... and I suspect that if my hearing had been anywhere near 'adequate' without hearing aids, I may well have heard the metal spring retention plates & the shaft/eye faces etc hitting together for quite some time before what little weld there was finally gave up!

    So even if you think it's the swing arm bushes, a loose axle or wheel hub, or anything else at all, I'd still suggest you remove the rear shock & spring assy entirely & check it & its operation, bushes, retention plates, etc very very carefully!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

  5. #5
    Active Member MagYukon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Is there air in the rear air spring? 40 to 50 psi?
    As I ride 90% of the time with my wife, it is at 55-60psi.
    X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner

  6. #6
    Active Member MagYukon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    The original rear shock on my 2013 RT broke at about 40,000km - the shaft completely parted company with the upper eye where they were supposedly 'welded' together. On checking, it was pretty obvious that the weld that 'broke' had never been even 1/4 complete, and there was actually only quite a tiny sliver of welded metal keeping the whole thing together.... and I suspect that if my hearing had been anywhere near 'adequate' without hearing aids, I may well have heard the metal spring retention plates & the shaft/eye faces etc hitting together for quite some time before what little weld there was finally gave up!

    So even if you think it's the swing arm bushes, a loose axle or wheel hub, or anything else at all, I'd still suggest you remove the rear shock & spring assy entirely & check it & its operation, bushes, retention plates, etc very very carefully!
    That is my next thing to do. Trying to look at the rear shock to see how it is.

    On normal riding, when the shock extend and retract normally (without going at any of its full limits), no sound at all. It's only when it goes all the way down.
    X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner

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    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    On my RTS (2011) if mine bottoms out it will bang. I had my rear cargo module off Sunday and my shock is ok. Air bag had only 16 lbs of air and I was ryding double. 99% of the bumps mine does not bang.
    RTS 2011 SM5, 75,000 miles


  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagYukon View Post
    That is my next thing to do. Trying to look at the rear shock to see how it is.

    On normal riding, when the shock extend and retract normally (without going at any of its full limits), no sound at all. It's only when it goes all the way down.
    If you are bottoming out, you will get an unmistakable jarring action with the clunk. Any suspension will do the same, whether or not there is something mechanical wrong.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  9. #9
    Active Member MagYukon's Avatar
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    After a few more runs on Bumps and Holes, I finally have the impression that the clunk is when the shock is going at fully extend and not compressed.

    I'll try to jack the spyder to have the rear wheel not touching the ground. Maybe I'll see if there's something that can be hit and making that noise.
    X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Bummer.....

    It could be the shock is not fuctioning properly and allowing the fluid flow to pass to quickly making the shock shaft to hit the end of it's travel. If all else have the shock tested of just replace it with a better one....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    ​2012 RS sm5

  11. #11
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    It could be the shock is not fuctioning properly and allowing the fluid flow to pass to quickly making the shock shaft to hit the end of it's travel. If all else have the shock tested of just replace it with a better one....
    True. Could simply be a failed shock. Blown dampening valving, for example. You'll probably have to remove the coil spring to check this. If it's really bad it should be obvious.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  12. #12
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    I have heard/felt this when hitting bumps sometimes, It sounds like the clutch going down a gear and it maybe gearing down because of the impact. I have had 3 Spyders and have experience it on all 3. Not often but it has happened.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    Not often but it has happened.
    Mine does it too. Not often and not loud.
    I was about ready to inspect the trunk looking for something loose.

    I ride very conservatively so it is a little odd to have it happen at all.

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    Felt that twice today.

    Riding solo. Also got the impression that the noise came when the shock was fully extended. Have an aftermarket shock on mine (F3S).

  15. #15
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    If it's occurring on full extension, then it's sorta to be expected - there's the coil spring itself plus the valving & oil flow in the internals of the shock to slow any sudden impact & noise on full COMPRESSION (ie, bottoming out) but there's nowhere near as much working with you to damp the 'thud' the stop on the end of the shocker shaft will make on sudden full EXTENSION.... except for the way you ride! And even if you think you're ryding conservatively, if you are regularly bottoming out or topping out the shock, either you're ryding a bit more spiritedly than you thought, or your shock is dead!! And that is quite possible on the OE Shocks, they aren't the most durable items I've ever seen.... with a/mkt shocks, it might be the way it's been valved or the way you've adjusted it, but they will die over time too!

    That said, there's not a massive amount of travel or real damping in the OE shocks at the best of times, and they are pretty basic units too - not much in the way of oil volume, gas to limit foaming & overheating the oil, no by-pass reservoirs, or any way to adjust the valving to slow the hit at either end..... so if this is happening a lot, you might need consider upgrading to something a little better, and maybe going for a coil spring that's got just a touch more load cpacity. Go too hard with the coil/shock assy & you might over-stress the mount points, so be careful with that!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

  16. #16
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    Buy something with an adjustable rebound also. cueman

  17. #17
    Active Member Rd_Runner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagYukon View Post
    Hi,

    with my F3T 2016, Since a few weeks, I can hear a strange metal clunk sound when hitting a big hole with the rear wheel.

    It just feels like if something is loose and 2 metal pieces hits together making that kind of metal sound.

    I only hear it when hitting something that can make the rear suspension retract probably completely.

    After a quick check, I haven't seen anything loose on the Spyder.

    Anybody ever experienced something like this ?

    What can it be ?

    Thanks !
    I would recommend you check the air pressure in the rear shock.
    If it is less than 40 PSI or close to zero you likely have an air leak.
    This would then allow the rear shock to bottom out.
    If it is really low I would then recommend you a get copy of the F3/F3T/F3 Unlimited Service manual.
    They can purchased on the internet for a really reasonable price.
    The service manual will walk you through how test for leaks and repair them.

    Mike

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rd_Runner View Post
    I would recommend you check the air pressure in the rear shock.
    If it is less than 40 PSI or close to zero you likely have an air leak.
    This would then allow the rear shock to bottom out.
    If it is really low I would then recommend you a get copy of the F3/F3T/F3 Unlimited Service manual.
    They can purchased on the internet for a really reasonable price.
    The service manual will walk you through how test for leaks and repair them.

    Mike
    Actually, there is no air shock on the Spyders, Mike The Fox (or whatever) shock and the air bag are two separate items. All the air bag does is raise and lower the rear of the Spyder and provide some cushioning for heavy or light loads. It’s psi will not affect shock bottoming as the weight compressing the stock shock remains the same. I ran my air bag at 70psi and at 5psi on my 2016 F3-L. and it made zero difference to it bottoming out. I have since replaced the stock shock with Wilbers heavy duty (and you do that without even touching the bag), and there is no bottoming out, even with the air bag set to 5psi and my weight at 300lbs.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

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  19. #19
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    Mine has an aftermarket shock with adjustable rebound. I guess there isn't much you can do when you are going fast and no time to avoid that big hole/lump on the road :/

    Oh, and never happened while riding two up (which is 95% of the time for me), I guess that extra load does help to avoid full extension.

  20. #20
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    Do all 2016 F3-T bikes have adjustable rear shocks?

  21. #21
    Active Member bushrat's Avatar
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    About that 'clunking' noise ...
    My experience has been slightly different (on the 2017 F3L)... I recall hitting unavoidable potholes with the rear wheel twice, with my passenger on board. Each time, there was a noticeable, jarring, heavy bump, which we both felt, and muttered "OUCH"! Don't recall any associated 'clunking' noise. More just the 'bump' sensation/noise from wheel rim striking pothole.

    However, there have been 4 or 5 occasions when I have run over bumps with the front wheels, when I have heard a very noticeable 'clunking' metallic noise which, to me, seemed to have come from under the mid-section (front half) of the Spyder. This sounded like a metallic 'slapping' noise, almost as if something a bit loose was banging up against the bottom of frame or motor. Haven't been able to determine where it came from, or see anything loose. Don't have any noticeable vibrations or concern about 'somethng's loose'-type noise while otherwise riding. But, those few times when I've gone over slight bumps that made the front wheels lift a bit, then come down, I've had the 'slapping' sound. And, No, it's not the front end bottoming out or scraping the underside. This is one quick short 'slap', then gone. And it's only ever happened a handful of widely separated times spread over 2-1/2 years and 15,000 miles. Only after going over uneven railway tracks, slight speed bumps or something similar. Still a mystery to me where it comes from. Nothing untoward has shown up when Spyder has been serviced at dealership, so I haven't let it worry me unduly.

    PS: Having re-read the previous posts, I'm wondering if what I experienced was similar to Tazzel (post 12) and Easy Rider (#13), as all three of us seem to feel the noise we hear emanates from the lower front end, and likely is caused by bumps to the front wheels. And perhaps our noise is caused, as Tazzel suggests, by an automated downshift generated by the slowing force of impact, however slight. That could account for the momentary, "quick slap" sound. I'll have to pay more attention to whether my gear range also has changed (dropped) if I hear it again. I'd be very happy to know that's all it was.
    [SIGPIC]
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by acdcking12 View Post
    Do all 2016 F3-T bikes have adjustable rear shocks?
    I believe F3Ts and RTs have an air cushion (self inflatable on the RT and F3T-L) which will stiffened the shock.

  23. #23
    Active Member MagYukon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushrat View Post
    About that 'clunking' noise ...
    My experience has been slightly different (on the 2017 F3L)... I recall hitting unavoidable potholes with the rear wheel twice, with my passenger on board. Each time, there was a noticeable, jarring, heavy bump, which we both felt, and muttered "OUCH"! Don't recall any associated 'clunking' noise. More just the 'bump' sensation/noise from wheel rim striking pothole.

    However, there have been 4 or 5 occasions when I have run over bumps with the front wheels, when I have heard a very noticeable 'clunking' metallic noise which, to me, seemed to have come from under the mid-section (front half) of the Spyder. This sounded like a metallic 'slapping' noise, almost as if something a bit loose was banging up against the bottom of frame or motor. Haven't been able to determine where it came from, or see anything loose. Don't have any noticeable vibrations or concern about 'somethng's loose'-type noise while otherwise riding. But, those few times when I've gone over slight bumps that made the front wheels lift a bit, then come down, I've had the 'slapping' sound. And, No, it's not the front end bottoming out or scraping the underside. This is one quick short 'slap', then gone. And it's only ever happened a handful of widely separated times spread over 2-1/2 years and 15,000 miles. Only after going over uneven railway tracks, slight speed bumps or something similar. Still a mystery to me where it comes from. Nothing untoward has shown up when Spyder has been serviced at dealership, so I haven't let it worry me unduly.

    PS: Having re-read the previous posts, I'm wondering if what I experienced was similar to Tazzel (post 12) and Easy Rider (#13), as all three of us seem to feel the noise we hear emanates from the lower front end, and likely is caused by bumps to the front wheels. And perhaps our noise is caused, as Tazzel suggests, by an automated downshift generated by the slowing force of impact, however slight. That could account for the momentary, "quick slap" sound. I'll have to pay more attention to whether my gear range also has changed (dropped) if I hear it again. I'd be very happy to know that's all it was.
    My feeling about that clunking noise is about the same as yours, but not sure it's related to the front end for me. Sometimes, it doesn't need to be a big bump so it's not related to going full stroke to one end or the other of the shocks. Even just going on a bumpy gravel road at slow speed I can ear it.

    It is like something is loose and bang on something else.

    As I don't see anything loose, I'm wondering if it can be from inside the trany or something like this.
    X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner

  24. #24
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    Mine did the same - after I installed a trailer hitch. Those bumps work loose the tightest bolts. You got a hitch? Check it

  25. #25
    Active Member MagYukon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevencovert View Post
    Mine did the same - after I installed a trailer hitch. Those bumps work loose the tightest bolts. You got a hitch? Check it
    No, I don't have a hitch.

    And as winter is going, the Spyder is still in its nest for a few months.
    X-Grip Ram Mount Phone Holder, Lamonster Fog and driving lights, BRP Heated grip, Home made rear rack + Shad SH58X top case, BRP belt tensioner

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