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  1. #1
    Active Member Aufgeblassen47's Avatar
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    Default Anyone Find Out What Exact Oil Is In Ryker From Factory?

    Inquiring minds need to know!

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    I wonder, if it has to do with where they are shipping to? Warmer climates get the thicker oil? I doubt that is the case because the engines are probably assembled in a different plant than the Ryker is assembled. But who know's, definitely a good question though.

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default as I see it....

    these engines have been in use for some time and the owners manual will have the spec's.... I would think they would still be using the XPS oils which I believe is made for them by Castrol. You basically just need to stick with the spec's in the owners manual and use a quality brand....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    ​2012 RS sm5

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    Active Member Aufgeblassen47's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    these engines have been in use for some time and the owners manual will have the spec's.... I would think they would still be using the XPS oils which I believe is made for them by Castrol. You basically just need to stick with the spec's in the owners manual and use a quality brand....
    That's fine, but it would be nice to know, in case oil runs a little low before 1st oil change, to add exact same oil.

    Is XPS/Castrol a semi-synthetic? If so, I would not hesitate to go 1.5X normal oil change intervals with full synthetic. If not synthetic at all, I'll go twice recommended with full synthetic.

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aufgeblassen47 View Post
    That's fine, but it would be nice to know, in case oil runs a little low before 1st oil change, to add exact same oil.

    Is XPS/Castrol a semi-synthetic? If so, I would not hesitate to go 1.5X normal oil change intervals with full synthetic. If not synthetic at all, I'll go twice recommended with full synthetic.
    XPS has a blend and a full synthetic. The exact same is not needed as long as the spec's are the same. I use and have since new XPS blend and never a problem. I change it at 4,500 give or take as most oil start loosing around there. I know the new spyders 1330 now says every 9,300 or year whichever comes first but JMO way to long for these engines.

    Also ask the dealer what oil they put in it when assembled. Not all use the same oil
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

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    Active Member Aufgeblassen47's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    XPS has a blend and a full synthetic. The exact same is not needed as long as the spec's are the same. I use and have since new XPS blend and never a problem. I change it at 4,500 give or take as most oil start loosing around there. I know the new spyders 1330 now says every 9,300 or year whichever comes first but JMO way to long for these engines.

    Also ask the dealer what oil they put in it when assembled. Not all use the same oil
    I'm quite positive they come with oil in already. After all, they TEST the engines at the factory, no doubt. Totally illogical they would drain the oil out, only to have dealership go thru the trouble of putting oil in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aufgeblassen47 View Post
    I'm quite positive they come with oil in already. After all, they TEST the engines at the factory, no doubt. Totally illogical they would drain the oil out, only to have dealership go thru the trouble of putting oil in.
    Not necessarily true, you know what happens when you assume!

    I would just call the dealer and ask them to find out if they come filled or do they do it in final setup. I own a power equipment dealership, and almost every brand I sell if it is run at the factory ALL the fluids are evacuated at the factory, and we fill them at my store when they are setup for delivery. I get a ton of mowers in every year that we're purchased from box stores and the customer did not fill the engine with the oil that was in the box, and the engines are shot in minutes! I know I am not in the "power sports" industry, but like I said I would call a dealer and ask instead of assume.

    I totally see your point of wanting to know, because I too would not want to mix oil brand, or viscosity if you do need to top it off.

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    My Ryker rally only has about 500+ miles on it. Since this is an oil thread, I’ll tell you what I did. Back in Dec when some had concern about low oil, clunks and other noises in the drive tran, I decided to change trans oil and the final drive fluid. The trans must have had the 5w-40 in it because it looked on the thin side, mind you, the owners manual gives a broad line for oil. From what I can remember, trans could use 5w-40 on the lighter side to 75w-140 on the heavier side. I used the heavier in the trans. I changed the final drive and it looked much heavier and good. Then replaced it with 75w-90. I would say minimal sluff? on the drain plug magnet on Final drive, and moderate sluff? On the trans drain plug. I feel better knowing that I have the right amount and viscosity of fluids in my Ryker. PS make sure to clean the drain plug magnets. My engine oil and filter will be changed about 600-800 miles. I know some will think this is a waste of time and money but, it’s my time and my money. cueman

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    Quote Originally Posted by cueman View Post
    My Ryker rally only has about 500+ miles on it. Since this is an oil thread, I’ll tell you what I did. Back in Dec when some had concern about low oil, clunks and other noises in the drive tran, I decided to change trans oil and the final drive fluid. The trans must have had the 5w-40 in it because it looked on the thin side, mind you, the owners manual gives a broad line for oil. From what I can remember, trans could use 5w-40 on the lighter side to 75w-140 on the heavier side. I used the heavier in the trans. I changed the final drive and it looked much heavier and good. Then replaced it with 75w-90. I would say minimal sluff? on the drain plug magnet on Final drive, and moderate sluff? On the trans drain plug. I feel better knowing that I have the right amount and viscosity of fluids in my Ryker. PS make sure to clean the drain plug magnets. My engine oil and filter will be changed about 600-800 miles. I know some will think this is a waste of time and money but, it’s my time and my money. cueman
    I don't think it is a waste of money at all.
    Dean O
    Gran Pa Hoon
    Founder San Jose BMW
    Builder of the Motorcyclist Cafe Barn and Bunkhouse
    Copperhill, Tennessee

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    Quote Originally Posted by cueman View Post
    My Ryker rally only has about 500+ miles on it. Since this is an oil thread, I’ll tell you what I did. Back in Dec when some had concern about low oil, clunks and other noises in the drive tran, I decided to change trans oil and the final drive fluid. The trans must have had the 5w-40 in it because it looked on the thin side, mind you, the owners manual gives a broad line for oil. From what I can remember, trans could use 5w-40 on the lighter side to 75w-140 on the heavier side. I used the heavier in the trans. I changed the final drive and it looked much heavier and good. Then replaced it with 75w-90. I would say minimal sluff? on the drain plug magnet on Final drive, and moderate sluff? On the trans drain plug. I feel better knowing that I have the right amount and viscosity of fluids in my Ryker. PS make sure to clean the drain plug magnets. My engine oil and filter will be changed about 600-800 miles. I know some will think this is a waste of time and money but, it’s my time and my money. cueman


    I don't think that is a waste of money, I may do the same. The only thing I would caution against is running a full synthetic during break in. The engine rings need to seat against the cylinder walls and full synthetic can hamper that. But the final drive and trans oil I see no issues with doing full synthetic.

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