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  1. #1
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    Default Clunk When putting into Gear

    I am a neebie. Just bought a 2018 RT SE6. Maybe a good deal maybe not...$$23,000 OTD. Anyway my question is when putting into gear
    significant clunk (either FWD or rev)normal? Also I bought the extended warranty from Western...mistake?

  2. #2
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    Just about every motorcycle I have ever owned had a significant clunk when they were dropped into gear.

  3. #3
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    Be sure you are putting it in neutral before you shut it off with the automatic shift. When you go to start it, it will shift to neutral and slam the starter engagement at the same time. I do not think this is good long term.

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    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    The clunk is absolutely normal. Motorcycles have constant mesh transmissions. They all do that. Just be sure the engine is at idle when you engage.
    2011 RTS
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  5. #5
    Active Member bushrat's Avatar
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    I believe you're going to find that Spyders are notorious for making a loud 'clunking' sound when first shifting into gear, either forward or reverse. My 2017 F3L was so noisy at first as to be scary; I kept thinking "What broke?" 12,000 miles later, it's still making the same shifting 'clunk' - just part of starting up. Let your machine warm up a bit before you move off; it won't be as loud. Ride more, worry less. BTW, I have never bothered about going to neutral when shutting off. On starting, the Spyder automatically puts itself in neutral. The 'clunk' comes not from turning over the starter, but when shifting into gear. When it's running, my 1330 engine almost sounds like a blender, or sewing machine, somewhat louder than I had expected, but just another trait to get used to.

    Most folks seem to believe in buying extended warranty coverage; the biggest part of the debate seems to be more about cost than about having it. There are fairly wide fluctuations in price asked. All that said, the time to really be concerned about the amount you pay is BEFORE you sign the contract, NOT AFTER. Having made your purchase (whatever the cost) you should now only be out ryding, having fun. Get out on the road and enjoy what you spent, even if it was your last dollar. Enjoy the passing scenery. If you spend your time grudgingly regretting an extra $100 or $1000 you might have saved, you'll never really experience all the fun your Spyder can be. Ride now, and make up any lost difference on your next deal. Have fun, be safe, and welcome to the Spyder experience.
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Completely normal. You will also find going from 1st to reverse or reverse to first there is no clunk.
    2016 F3 Limited
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  7. #7
    Active Member AAbruzzese's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thopper View Post
    I am a neebie. Just bought a 2018 RT SE6. Maybe a good deal maybe not...$$23,000 OTD. Anyway my question is when putting into gear
    significant clunk (either FWD or rev)normal? Also I bought the extended warranty from Western...mistake?
    My wife and I are also newly enjoying the Spyder and it does have a few interesting quirks. The loud clunking, the shifting coach in EcoMode seems to want to put you in 5th gear at 40mph and shift at 3k rpm regardless.

    I bought the service plan and the warranty on my 2018RTL SE6 and wound up with 325$ a month payment with zero down. So all in all I am really loving it and have put on 1000 miles in 3 weeks.

    The next thing is to update the dash software as quite a few folks said it improves BRP connect and I installed a set of extension wires for the audio and usb connection to the front grill just under the mirror coupled that to a wireless bluetooth receiver and use my tablet as Gps and music player.

    Just enjoy the ride ...

  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    I've had a good number of motorcycles over the years. I agree with those who have already stated that every one of them will give you a good clunk. And some, a bit of a jerk when going from neutral to 1st gear (and the Spyder into reverse as well). Again, as already mentioned, it is just the normal function of a constant mesh transmission.

    A normal transmission has a neutral between each gear where the gears are completely disengaged as well as synchronizers which ease the transition into the next gear. This makes for a very smooth and quiet shifting sequence. But a motorcycle is all about size and weight. All of that extra stuff in a normal transmission takes up too much room and adds a good deal of weight. Hence, the much lighter, more compact and more efficient constant mesh transmission is used.

    In a constant mesh transmission the gears are always turning, even in neutral. So this spinning mass stops suddenly when you go from neutral to 1st gear. Also, there is much more drag on the clutch when disengaged than the virtually zero drag with a standard clutch setup in a car or truck. So you don't really have a true 'Neutral' like you would in a car or truck. All you need to do to confirm this is try to move your manual Spyder with it in gear and the clutch pulled in. Or try to coast down the highway with the clutch pulled in. You will experience a whole lot of drag.

    The only time a motorcycle clutch and transmission is truly free is when shifted into the neutral position. This is what creates the clunk.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 04-18-2019 at 10:09 AM.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Pirate looks at --'s Avatar
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    "It's Just the Normal Noises in Here!"
    White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.

    2016 F3 Limited Intense Red Pearl. Lidlox, BRP Driver Back Rest, BRP Passenger Back Rest,Fog Lights, GPS, Signature Light! Custom Dynamics LED Bright Sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright Sides.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffandLori View Post
    Be sure you are putting it in neutral before you shut it off with the automatic shift. When you go to start it, it will shift to neutral and slam the starter engagement at the same time. I do not think this is good long term.
    I am sorry but that simply is not true. The auto shift to neutral does not happen until the engine has started and reaches idle speed. So no extra load on the starter at all.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default There you have it....

    As you can see from all the responses it is normal. The reason is that the transmission is not spinning when in neutral and the engine, once started, is spinning at Idle speed. When you frist shift to 1st or Reverse you have to put the spinning engine and the non-spinning transmission together getting that clunk.. this is different with the different engines and drive systems used. Big singles and twins seem to be more noticeable than the inlines with more cylinders. The only way to avoid this is to have a manual transmission and start it in gear then when you release the clutch engine and tranny will already be engaged....
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    The CLUNK - Yep, what everyone else said ….. however, if it really, really upsets you or others … The warmer the engine is, I believe the less it will CLUNK …… at least that has been my observation..... Personally since the CLUNK isn't at all harmful, is it worth the time and Gas to diminish the CLUNK ….. Test out my theory and decide for yourself …… good luck …. Mike

  13. #13
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    The CLUNK - Yep, what everyone else said ….. however, if it really, really upsets you or others … The warmer the engine is, I believe the less it will CLUNK …… at least that has been my observation..... Personally since the CLUNK isn't at all harmful, is it worth the time and Gas to diminish the CLUNK ….. Test out my theory and decide for yourself …… good luck …. Mike
    The clunk is reduced when the oil is at operating temperature. But you're right. The clunk is designed in and does not hurt anything. It is akin to the problem some have with a high revving engine. If it's designed to do that then you're doing harm to run that engine at low RPM's.

    I also agree that trying to warm the oil before riding in attempt to reduce the initial clunk is at least wasteful, if not down right detrimental. If your machine is happy, then you should be happy to! We all have quirks, even our Spyders. Just go with it!
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  14. #14
    Active Member FalconAF's Avatar
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    Heck, at my age I clunk when I swing my leg over the Spyder to get on it. Whether I'm warm or not.
    2018 Spyder RT Limited

  15. #15
    Active Member Musashi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FalconAF View Post
    Heck, at my age I clunk when I swing my leg over the Spyder to get on it. Whether I'm warm or not.
    , but the soft tissue is shot.
    A courageous man dares to die; a confident man dares to live. Lao Tzu

  16. #16
    Active Member Musashi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thopper View Post
    I am a neebie. Just bought a 2018 RT SE6. Maybe a good deal maybe not...$$23,000 OTD. Anyway my question is when putting into gear
    significant clunk (either FWD or rev)normal? Also I bought the extended warranty from Western...mistake?
    Motorcycles are kinda like helicopters. Some people refer to some of both as choppers. The standard safety briefing for a CH-47 (Chinook) includes a warning about hydraulic fluid on the rear ramp is a slip hazard when entering/exiting the aircraft, followed immediately by the crew chief saying, "And if there isn't any leaking onto the ramp, don't get on board. It means the bird is OUT of hydraulic fluid." If you stop hearing/feeling that clunk, don't try to ride it!
    A courageous man dares to die; a confident man dares to live. Lao Tzu

  17. #17
    Very Active Member 4 MARIE's Avatar
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    shift from neutral is very "solid" or clunky. Normal
    Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
    Loved my 2014 RTS SE6 Pearl white
    but have a new love now,
    my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)

  18. #18
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    Glad to read this. I also was concerned with the clunk because it is louder than when I shift into first on my motorcycles. Of course, if anything goes wrong in the first few years, that is what the warranty is for provided we aren't out on a trip.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffandLori View Post
    Be sure you are putting it in neutral before you shut it off with the automatic shift. When you go to start it, it will shift to neutral and slam the starter engagement at the same time. I do not think this is good long term.
    Mine does NOT do that.....at least not that I have noticed.
    What exactly makes you think that anything gets "slammed" in that situation ??

    It should make the clanking noise when shifting into a gear.....either 1st or Rev......just once or twice when COLD.
    Mine usually does it only once.....but occasionally the shift from R to 1 is also a bit louder than normal.

    And no I don't think an extended warranty is a mistake for THIS vehicle.
    Repairs seem to be frequent and ongoing for a lot of owners.

  20. #20
    aka: akspyderman ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I get the "clunk" when going into gear on both 's AND my 900 Vulcan.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 10 years, 145,375 miles


  21. #21
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    Back when I read the entire owner's manual for my new 2015 RTS SE6, it called this neutral-to-first clunk "positive engagement".


    2015 Sypder RT-S SE6
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  22. #22
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARtraveler View Post
    I get the "clunk" when going into gear on both 's AND my 900 Vulcan.
    On my poor, old, slow V-Max I get the clunk if I don't do the following-------- pull the clutch in and release 6 or 7 times. Then no clunk. Haven't heard much about a gear box failing. MY 2014 has had NO problems.
    Lew L
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    2014 RTS in circuit yellow, farkeling addiction down to once every few months.ECU FLASH IS GREAT.

  23. #23
    Active Member hershey's Avatar
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    You think you clunk now, wait until you get a metal knee....

    2 Wheels (ST1100, Marauder, Honda Shadow, Honda Rebel) 3 wheels (2018 Spyder RT Ltd)

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by hershey View Post
    You think you clunk now, wait until you get a metal knee....

    I have a metal knee. It don't clunk, but it hurts when it rains.

  25. #25
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    Yeah what they said. Really loud in garage with cold engine. Ipull it out let it warm up for sure SE6 Tran. We live in the city have large drive way. We only have 1 rule no one backs out into the street! WE meet here everyone is in gear and takes off smoothly. The time it takes to go from R to 1st could be a problem. I have used my extended warrenty and glad we've had it. So do not freak on the small stuff. Join a group of SPYDER RYDERS! They helped me to buy what is needed, avoid the $$ pitfalls. Taught me how to do maintence and best of all how to have a good time. Happy safe miles.

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