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  1. #1
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    Default Maintenance Costs

    Hi out there in Spydie Land.... another question for those that have had their Spyders for a while. We purchased a 2012 with 9k miles on it. The dealership stated we needed to bring it in at 12k and get this list of things performed, oil change, valves adjusted, etc. They said it is 13 hours of work and will cost around $2k to complete. Does this sound right to you? Have you experienced this? Most of what needs to be done for maintenance my husband can do except for the valves being adjusted.

    Just wondering what to expect !

    Thanks for your feedback and safe riding !!

    Debon8tor

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Holy Bull Excrement! $2K!!!!!! I don't have much experience with dealers so someone else please chime in. I doubt if the valves need adjusting at this stage.
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Debon8tor View Post
    Hi out there in Spydie Land.... another question for those that have had their Spyders for a while. We purchased a 2012 with 9k miles on it. The dealership stated we needed to bring it in at 12k and get this list of things performed, oil change, valves adjusted, etc. They said it is 13 hours of work and will cost around $2k to complete. Does this sound right to you? Have you experienced this? Most of what needs to be done for maintenance my husband can do except for the valves being adjusted.

    Just wondering what to expect !

    Thanks for your feedback and safe riding !!

    Debon8tor
    VALVE ADJUSTMENT .............It is a well known fact that the V-twin DOES NOT NEED this done until approx. 50,000 + miles ( and likely not then either ) ….. Your Spyder is not in WARRANTY so you have nothing to jeopardize by not doing it …… Dealers charge about $ 650.00 …. and because they know it won't need adjustment they probably don't even look … ( I'm not kidding on this ) …. I'm sure others will tell you this same thing ….. and ........Mike

  4. #4
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    Egads, that's a lot of $. Sounds like some gouging going on with this dealer. Think I'd be getting a second opinion.

  5. #5
    Active Member kdp1308's Avatar
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    Just say no! They should only charge $800 max to check the valves. There is no need to check them. I just bought an 2013 RTS last fall with 23000 miles. I checked my valves this winter but only because the valves covers were leaking. The valve checked right in the middle of the range. The way these valves are designed they actually get tighter as they wear. The main indication that the valves are worn is it gets hard to start because the valves aren't closing all the way when cold. I wouldn't check or adjust the valves until it gets hard to start. The whole engine will probably be worn out by then, probably close to 100,000 miles. Get a shop manual, you can download a pdf version pretty easy. Do everything you can by yourself, especially oil changes. There are lots of videos out there to help. You can get most maintenance items you need from Baja Ron; https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rs-amp-Helmets

  6. #6
    aka: akspyderman ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Another agreement with Mike about the valve job.

    I am known as the valve job beta tester here. Did one on my 08 at 12K as recommended....no adjustments needed. $1,500

    Waited until 28K for my 2010. no adjustments needed. another $1,500. They screwed it up by not replacing the gasket. Had to redo on their dime.

    My current 2011 will NOT see a valve job. Currently 30K miles and no issues. Not needed IMO. It is also thought that some dealers charge you for it and do nothing. Recommend letting that part of it go...as discussed by others above.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 03-14-2019 at 11:09 PM.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 10 years, 145,375 miles


  7. #7
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    Thanks everyone for your input! I needed confirmation that I wasn’t willing to get raked over the coals. Needless to say we won’t be getting a valve adjustment at 12k!!!!

    Pleasant riding all!!

  8. #8
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    i have 72,000 miles on my 998. Valves have never been checked. spyder starts and runs great.
    RTS 2011 SM5


  9. #9
    Active Member Musashi's Avatar
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    My 2012 RTSE5 A&C has been 100% dealer serviced. Can Am dealers do...in fact...recommend a major service at 13k miles that costs about $1000 at the 3 dealerships in 3 different states I am familiar with. That includes a brake flush, a coolant flush, and a few more odds and ends. This is "the expensive one" in the life of a dealer-maintained Spyder. Personally, I am suspicious of the necessity for these things. But mine had just been done when I bought it from a friend. In general, if you want your trike dealer maintained, you should budget about $1000/year for it. Most years will come in under budget. But some years you will need brakes, tires, or an electrical component will fail, etc. In 3 years, I've spent about $1000 total with a good extended warranty (and $600 of that is routine oil changes, etc.). Without the warranty, it would have been about $3k.
    A courageous man dares to die; a confident man dares to live. Lao Tzu

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    The valve check, service of fuel filter etc is scheduled for 14,000 miles. Doesn't anyone look at the Owners Manual anymore? Our 2012 had 32,000 miles on it with no valve checks. I did change the spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, air filter, coolant and brake fluid at 14,000 miles.
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Your Spyder only needs the oil changed every 4500 miles. If it hasn't been changed at a mileage that you know about, change it to give yourself a base line. The Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years. Yours has probably never been changed so I would have this done. Brake fluid is very hygroscopic which means it absorbs water from the atmosphere very easily which causes it to beak down. Your coolant has probably never been changed either. Coolant does wear out and should also be changed. If you are mechanical you can do this yourself along with oil changes and will save you some money. Valves done on the schedule BRP recommends are a waste of time and money until you have far more miles on your machine then now. Learn to do what you can. If you really want to dive into get a shop manual. There is a lot of information here and on You Tube on how to do many maintenance items yourself.

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  12. #12
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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  13. #13
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    I feel your pain. I went to a local Powersports dealer and they quoted close to $650 to change tires and alignment. Not going to happen to my world. Apparently one has to be independently wealthy to own a COW. A lot of great DIY videos on here for just about any work required.

  14. #14
    Active Member Musashi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    Your Spyder only needs the oil changed every 4500 miles. If it hasn't been changed at a mileage that you know about, change it to give yourself a base line. The Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years. Yours has probably never been changed so I would have this done. Brake fluid is very hygroscopic which means it absorbs water from the atmosphere very easily which causes it to beak down. Your coolant has probably never been changed either. Coolant does wear out and should also be changed. If you are mechanical you can do this yourself along with oil changes and will save you some money. Valves done on the schedule BRP recommends are a waste of time and money until you have far more miles on your machine then now. Learn to do what you can. If you really want to dive into get a shop manual. There is a lot of information here and on You Tube on how to do many maintenance items yourself.
    Right. About every other year, these fluids should be changed regardless of mileage. The Spyder Tech at the dealership I use now recommends staggering them by a year to keep the budget impact down. In other words, change brake fluid this year and coolant next year. This also has an additional advantage of keeping a cert tech looking over your Spyder at least once/year when you put it in the shop for the oil change/routine svc. It's all about developing a relationship unless you want to do it yourself. Spend a bit of extra time talking to the tech and svc mgr about who you are and how you use your Spyder. Become the customer instead of your trike being the customer. This is how you get the most bang for your buck from a dealer-serviced maintenance plan.
    A courageous man dares to die; a confident man dares to live. Lao Tzu

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