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  1. #1
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default 1330 ANTI-FREEZE

    years ago, i had a leak in my RS 990 Water Pump... the dealer replaced the pump, and filled her with PRESTONE ANTI-FREEZE... i never had an issue again, and i put over 35,000 miles of smiles on her after the replacement...

    i'm planning to go thru all the systems on my F3 for our ride out to Deadwood this July... with 46,000 miles of on this one, i'm think'n it's about time to change the anti-freeze in my 1330.... has any1 used a different anti-freeze other than the BRP/OEM product...??? the OEM is a 50/50 blend and you can get the PRESTONE 50/50 @ most any Walmarts or auto stores....

    any suggestions will be more than appreciated....
    thx
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

  2. #2
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
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    Default 1330 ANTI-FREEZE

    First off, I believe; and will stand corrected if wrong, the original antifreeze/coolant has a five year life before needing replacement. If you completely flush out the old original you can then replace with Peak all season protection. The OEM is $12.00/ quart!!!!!!!!!
    All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!


    2014 RS SM 5


    My mods: trailer hitch, outlets for GPS and I-touch to listen to music with. Mad Stad 22 in touring windshield, clear protective wrap on side panels and behind steering head, neoprene grip cushions, Bead rider seat cushion, Smooth Spyder backrest, Day Long seat, Time out trailer, Garmin 660.

  3. #3
    Active Member wd8ajj's Avatar
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    Default

    Your right 5 years before change.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default QUESTION

    my questions was: "has any1 used a different anti-freeze other than the BRP/OEM product...???"

    has anyone ever used PRESTONE in their 1330...??? and, what are the results...???
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

  5. #5
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    Default

    Dan,
    Since the OEM stuff has always worked just fine in my bikes: I'm curious as to why anyone would want to try anything else...

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Purple Guy's Avatar
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    Default

    I changed mine over the winter and used Motormaster brand Extended life Orange Anti-Freeze. BRP's is no better that the major brands Prestone included. The only difference is you can buy a gallon for the price of a quart from BRP.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default PURPLEMAN

    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Guy View Post
    I changed mine over the winter and used Motormaster brand Extended life Orange Anti-Freeze. BRP's is no better that the major brands Prestone included. The only difference is you can buy a gallon for the price of a quart from BRP.

    THANK YOU PURPLE GUY.....
    that's all i wanted to know....
    BRP is like HD, BIG BUCK$ for everything, and it's no better than other brands....
    case in point... BPR semi-syn-oil is $13 qt.... i just changed over to VALVOLINE full-syn-oil is $6.50 qt., and i notice a big difference in how smooth my SE6 shifts, and it also cut down the engine noise by 10 db's....
    Dan P
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Default

    When my RT developed the well known hose leak I've always just topped off with the standard universal Prestone and have never had any issues. It's either a HOAT type anti-freeze or it's not. The BRP branded stuff is nothing new or special, nor is it made by BRP. It's just sold by BRP in their own packaging and their own pricing.
    2014 RT SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5



  9. #9
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default KX

    Quote Originally Posted by KX5062 View Post
    When my RT developed the well known hose leak I've always just topped off with the standard universal Prestone and have never had any issues. It's either a HOAT type anti-freeze or it's not. The BRP branded stuff is nothing new or special, nor is it made by BRP. It's just sold by BRP in their own packaging and their own pricing.

    Did you use the 50/50 blend version....?????
    dp

  10. #10
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    Did you use the 50/50 blend version....?????
    dp
    Technically, no. I buy the concentrate and then mix to 50/50 with water from my home RO system. However, it's the same results.
    2014 RT SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5



  11. #11
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default DRAIN PLUG

    HELP...! ! !
    i'm about to do the anti-freeze, and i've been told DO NOT DRAIN VIA THE DRAIN PLUGS, because they break off when you try to turn them.....
    anyone else hear of this....? has this happened to any of you....?
    if not the drain plugs, what other methods have you used to drain your anti-freeze....????
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

  12. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    HELP...! ! !
    i'm about to do the anti-freeze, and i've been told DO NOT DRAIN VIA THE DRAIN PLUGS, because they break off when you try to turn them.....
    anyone else hear of this....? has this happened to any of you....?
    if not the drain plugs, what other methods have you used to drain your anti-freeze....????
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

    I have a 2012 RS, drained the antifreeze a few weeks ago and had this exact problem. So, yes it's true on the 998. The drain plug doesn't break, the press fit joint between the drain plug housing and the radiator body turns loose and leaks. I was told they can be soldered but I bought a new radiator ($300). It was in stock and I had it in 2 days which makes me think this is a very common problem.

    Auto mechanic friend of mine who owns a garage said its a common issue on vehicles too. He said most manufactures now have a petcock in place of the drain plug so draining is just turning the valve which puts no stress on the press fit joint.

    Only other method to drain would be to pull the bottom hose into the radiator. Not sure how hard that is on a 1330. It's not terrible on the 998 but a working drain plug would be better.

    I used Vanguard universal 50/50 antifreeze with an aluminum engine rating from the local auto parts store. No issues. Antifreeze it antifreeze in my opinion.

  13. #13
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default THX

    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Rodriguez View Post
    I have a 2012 RS, drained the antifreeze a few weeks ago and had this exact problem. So, yes it's true on the 998. The drain plug doesn't break, the press fit joint between the drain plug housing and the radiator body turns loose and leaks. I was told they can be soldered but I bought a new radiator ($300). It was in stock and I had it in 2 days which makes me think this is a very common problem.

    Auto mechanic friend of mine who owns a garage said its a common issue on vehicles too. He said most manufactures now have a petcock in place of the drain plug so draining is just turning the valve which puts no stress on the press fit joint.

    Only other method to drain would be to pull the bottom hose into the radiator. Not sure how hard that is on a 1330. It's not terrible on the 998 but a working drain plug would be better.

    I used Vanguard universal 50/50 antifreeze with an aluminum engine rating from the local auto parts store. No issues. Antifreeze it antifreeze in my opinion.

    THX Rob....
    i was hoping this wasn't true, but coming from one that has had that problem, i'm now concerned about the design team at BRP....
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default From the hose....

    There have been quite a few that have had the problem and most now recommend you drain it from the hose. Being in a warmer climate I run a 75% to 25% mix and keeps things running cool. Do know that BRP change coolant in the newer model but don't know that it is any better... most manufacturers that have their own brand do not make them anyway. Question is who makes it for them...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    ​2012 RS sm5

  15. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    THX Rob....
    i was hoping this wasn't true, but coming from one that has had that problem, i'm now concerned about the design team at BRP....
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

    I'm concerned about the quality of some of the parts for sure. Not sure the BRP design team is at fault. The radiator manufacturer is on the hook for this I would say but at the same time BRP engineering provides the drawing(s) and specs for the part to the manufacturer and they could specifically specify the press fit be welded, soldered, etc or meet a certain torque spec for non rotation. If they are going to continue to use a drain plug it would make sense to do this. Yes, this would mean the parts costs more but it's worth it in this case.

    I'm sure they look at it like, we can save a few bucks and it will hold up until warranty runs out. Even with the BEST warranty (which I'm not sure would cover this) most people aren't going to change their coolant in the first 5 yrs.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Zip's Avatar
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    Last edited by Zip; 05-17-2018 at 12:55 PM.
    2010 RTSM5


  17. #17
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    I appreciate the 5 year life on the extended service antifreeze that is OEM on the 1330. I checked out the 50/50 quarts on the shelf at my local dealer and asked the sales rep to look up the capacity of the system. His reply was that it was right at 1 gal US. Since I could get a quart for less than $10, and I have a vacuum extractor, my plan is to suck out 1 quart each spring as part of my spring checkup, and replace with a fresh quart of the orange 50/50 XPS ...

    I know it doesn't get all the old out, but for my needs, its quick and painless and verifies that the coolant reservoir is up to the cold level and I'm good for another year. I extracted almost 1 quart, and replaced with just under a quart new, so I can top off if needed, but no plugs, clamps or mess involved1330OrangeCoolant.jpg
    07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
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  18. #18
    Active Member Raprider's Avatar
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    What is the value of replacing one quart at a time vs full replacement? Meaning that if at 5 years it warrants replacement, why replace some and not all?
    Raprider (Rich)

    2016 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 Steel Black Metallic (Blackbird)
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  19. #19
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Thanks Raprider for the question. For me the value is to “refresh” 25% of the coolant while confirming the level in the coolant reservoir for this riding season. I do not recommend this as a means to replace the full coolant change as recommended at 5 years and system flush and pressure check by a qualified technician. If the 1330 system had an easily accessed drain, and fill and purge procedure, and I had a better shop and tools, I would do the complete flush at 5 years.

    I wanted to share the info of the 4 quart coolant system capacity as well as the reservoir capacity of approx 1 quart depending on level between cold and hot levels. As always maintenance and riding preferences are your choice. Just a chance to share info and learn from others about our machines. I figure that sticking with the OEM Orange coolant that at least I'm not gumming anything up..
    07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
    03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
    11 RT, 15 RT-S, current 15 base RT and F3T

  20. #20
    Active Member Raprider's Avatar
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    Default

    Fair points, AeroPilot!
    I am here to learn more about our rydes...and always appreciate the great info from the many knowledgeable folks here!
    Raprider (Rich)

    2016 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 Steel Black Metallic (Blackbird)
    BRP Audio, Heated Grips, Fog Lights, Passenger Backrest, Givi Saddlebags/Top Case
    BajaRon Swaybar, Wide-Vu Mirrors, Lamonster Ram mount and X-grip, Sena 20S Evo Dual

    1996 Yamaha Virago 750 (Vera) - still riding
    1987 Honda Shadow 500 (Shady) - sold
    1982 Honda Rebel 250 (Little Reb) - sold


  21. #21
    Active Member Jetfixer's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Dan,
    Since the OEM stuff has always worked just fine in my bikes: I'm curious as to why anyone would want to try anything else...
    For the same reason that everyone wants to ask what oil to use. It's common knowledge that the vast supply of Internet Engineers are far more knowledgeable than the ones who designed the machine.

  22. #22
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    BRP changed the procedure for changing the coolant they now recommend removing the lower radiator hose to drain. In fact from 2014 0n there is no plug on the radiator. I purchase an assortment of Oreck clamps from McMaster Carr and use one that fits. I also have them for the gas filter. A lot less$ then getting them from a BRP dealer.
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?

  23. #23
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    HELP...! ! !
    i'm about to do the anti-freeze, and i've been told DO NOT DRAIN VIA THE DRAIN PLUGS, because they break off when you try to turn them.....
    anyone else hear of this....? has this happened to any of you....?
    if not the drain plugs, what other methods have you used to drain your anti-freeze....????
    Dan P
    SPYD3R
    Don't know for sure on the 1330's but on the 998's my dealer warned me about this when he changed mine. He says the spigot is only a press fit into the radiator and not soldered. Since mine was used when I bought it I had him do brake fluid,oil and coolant after I bought it. They remove the lower hose to drain the fluid. Didn't cost any more that way.

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