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What type of anti freeze in the 1330?
- Thread starter ES44AC
- Start date
This is from the NAPA-online website;
1. THE STORY ON HOAT
Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) Coolant was pretty much the original type of coolant and is still used in older vehicles. It lasts around 30,000 miles before it turns too acidic and needs to be changed. Organic Acid Technology (OAT) Coolant uses additives to increase its lifespan significantly — up to around 150,000 miles. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) Coolant is a hybrid of the two.
2. HOW HOAT CAME TO LIFE
You want your coolant to do a few things. Most importantly, it cools the engine, but remember it’s also passing through metal passageways and subject to vastly different operating temperatures, so it needs to deal with all of that. The original IAT is strongly anti-corrosive, but it needs to be changed regularly. OAT lasts much longer, but it doesn’t defend against corrosion as well. Ironically, simply mixing the two can have damaging corrosive effects, but the hybrid-engineered HOAT uses a chemical composition that keeps rust and buildup at bay, is effective at very low and high temperatures alike, and lasts five years and beyond.
3. CAREFUL, HOAT DOESN’T PLAY NICE
What is HOAT Coolant?
Nope! On the surface, it seems like a hybrid between IAT and OAT would be compatible with either, but that’s not the case. They may share similar names, but the chemical recipe is different enough that manufacturers do not recommend mixing them. Doing so potentially limits your coolant’s effectiveness in doing its job and can greatly reduce the lifespan. And as mentioned earlier, it might actually gunk up the system. This is true even if you’ve drained the coolant from an engine — it’s not so easy as to just add a different type because traces of the old type remain and cling to passageways.
4. WHEN TO USE HOAT
As with most other questions about your car, check your owner’s manual. It should specify the coolant type. You may think the benefits of IAT, OAT or HOAT are what your vehicle needs, but it’s not a call you can easily make without cleaning out the entire cooling system (more than just a flush). So it’s really best to just stick with what was designed to support your engine and you will be fine.
1. THE STORY ON HOAT
Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) Coolant was pretty much the original type of coolant and is still used in older vehicles. It lasts around 30,000 miles before it turns too acidic and needs to be changed. Organic Acid Technology (OAT) Coolant uses additives to increase its lifespan significantly — up to around 150,000 miles. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) Coolant is a hybrid of the two.
2. HOW HOAT CAME TO LIFE
You want your coolant to do a few things. Most importantly, it cools the engine, but remember it’s also passing through metal passageways and subject to vastly different operating temperatures, so it needs to deal with all of that. The original IAT is strongly anti-corrosive, but it needs to be changed regularly. OAT lasts much longer, but it doesn’t defend against corrosion as well. Ironically, simply mixing the two can have damaging corrosive effects, but the hybrid-engineered HOAT uses a chemical composition that keeps rust and buildup at bay, is effective at very low and high temperatures alike, and lasts five years and beyond.
3. CAREFUL, HOAT DOESN’T PLAY NICE
What is HOAT Coolant?
Nope! On the surface, it seems like a hybrid between IAT and OAT would be compatible with either, but that’s not the case. They may share similar names, but the chemical recipe is different enough that manufacturers do not recommend mixing them. Doing so potentially limits your coolant’s effectiveness in doing its job and can greatly reduce the lifespan. And as mentioned earlier, it might actually gunk up the system. This is true even if you’ve drained the coolant from an engine — it’s not so easy as to just add a different type because traces of the old type remain and cling to passageways.
4. WHEN TO USE HOAT
As with most other questions about your car, check your owner’s manual. It should specify the coolant type. You may think the benefits of IAT, OAT or HOAT are what your vehicle needs, but it’s not a call you can easily make without cleaning out the entire cooling system (more than just a flush). So it’s really best to just stick with what was designed to support your engine and you will be fine.
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BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Nope the 1330 takes 5 qts, ... then run it through a heat cycle and measure correctly .... might take a Tad more .... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
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This Zerex product seems to meet all the requirements called for by the Spyder Operator's Manual. It is H.O.A.T. and G-05, and specifically mentions it is safe to use with all aluminum engines. It is certainly less expensive and more readily available than the XPS stuff (which is the OEM brand).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033QQ4V...e&sr=1-2-a094db1c-5033-42c6-82a2-587d01f975e8
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033QQ4V...e&sr=1-2-a094db1c-5033-42c6-82a2-587d01f975e8
K80Shooter
New member
The only thing that I see is that under the specs the very 1st thing it says is "Ethyl glycol" and I don't see it listed on the Zerex G-05. I'm not sure if that even matters.
The Valvoline Zerex Original Green Antifreeze/ Coolant https://motorcareguys.com/best-anti...een Antifreeze/ Coolant,-Zerex Original Green does show it and is for aluminum engines as well as Havoline Xtended Life Antifreeze/ Coolant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M1Y7QJQ?tag=motorcareguys-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 Unless someone see something that I didn't either of these would work along with Dexcool (At least the Shell Dexcool) I only read up on the Shell Dexcool.
So it looks like there are several options out there. Again for me "I would never mix coolants" from one brand to another.
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