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  1. #76
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    Sure it is! They wanted more torque right out of the hole, so they tuned for that: NOT for high end horsepower!

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Pete sorry but I haven't memorized what tires you now have .... nor pretty much anyone else's .... I believe you have the Kenda rear tire but that is a guess ...and I hate guessing .... However if it is ...NOTHING will correct the poor construction .... folks here have tried every psi possible with the same result ...It just wears in the center first ...... The only possible way to lessen this , is to never drive more than 30 mph ( maybe that's even to high ) ..... Please EVERYONE be specific about what you are discussing , it will save a lot of time and wrong answers .....jmho ... Mike
    Sorry, you're right I should have been more specific. I'm at about 8k on the original Kenda rear tire and showing noticeable wear in the center. I'm thinking that is because the tire pressure is too high at 28# riding one-up so I'm lowering it to 25# and see if that makes a difference in the remaining life of the tire.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
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  3. #78
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Would YOU ride a "Dark-sided" Touring bike?
    Yes and have after 100 miles there was no difference in how it felt. If my 2008 RSV had been dark sided it wouldn't have gone down.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
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  4. #79
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    I'm thinking that is because the tire pressure is too high at 28# riding one-up so I'm lowering it to 25# and see if that makes a difference in the remaining life of the tire.
    It won't.

    2014 Copper RTS

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  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    It won't.
    I'm about 99.4% sure that I agree...
    Here's why:
    Over-inflation of tires is usually manifested by increased wear in the center section of the tread.
    (What you're currently seeing.)
    Under-inflation usually ends up wearing out the outer portions of the tread first...
    Usually!
    Since the Kendas are so flimsy; they actually "balloon" at higher speeds if they're under-inflated.

    Result: the center section of the tread was doomed from the start!

    Having said this...
    There might be a pressure setting that will work perfectly.
    But if anyone has found it: they're keeping the good news to themselves!

  6. #81
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default KENDA MAGIC PSI

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I'm about 99.4% sure that I agree...
    Here's why:
    Over-inflation of tires is usually manifested by increased wear in the center section of the tread.
    (What you're currently seeing.)
    Under-inflation usually ends up wearing out the outer portions of the tread first...
    Usually!
    Since the Kendas are so flimsy; they actually "balloon" at higher speeds if they're under-inflated.

    Result: the center section of the tread was doomed from the start!

    Having said this...
    There might be a pressure setting that will work perfectly.
    But if anyone has found it: they're keeping the good news to themselves!
    Bob I stated this fact earlier but most people don't read all the posts .... The Kenda has such FLIMSY construction ....There isn't ANY PSI that can change what happens ie. center tire wear ......However if you ride on the slow side , on great roads, at some ideal Temp ... the mileage may be slightly above CRAPPY ..... Mike

  7. #82
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    I only look at the pictures...

  8. #83
    Very Active Member BoilerAnimal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    Kind of but not really.

    The additional rotating mass of three cylinders is probably the determining factor in the lower max. RPM limit.

    The additional HP/torque allows higher gearing and lower engine speeds at a given speed.....but the engine itself is not "designed to turn slower".

    Usually, one of the determining factors for the rpm's of an engine is the length of the stroke. The longer the stroke, the lower the rpm's. The 1330 has a longer stroke than the 998.
    On the road again...........and forever young!

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  9. #84
    Very Active Member easysuper's Avatar
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    The Kumos are getting harder to find as I've heard they are discontinued in that particular size? I have had luck just calling my local Discount tire stores here in Portland and they have always come up with one in a day or two. This time they had trouble finding one so I went to a Michelin, but was greatly disappointed when I called our favorite dealer who has always mounted our after market tires on the spyders and was told they could no longer mount a tire they did not sell, because of a lawsuit. I did get another Can AM dealer to mount the tire . But am wondering when they will no longer accommodate us due to the same thing.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoilerAnimal View Post
    Usually, one of the determining factors for the rpm's of an engine is the length of the stroke. The longer the stroke, the lower the rpm's. The 1330 has a longer stroke than the 998.
    That too.
    I didn't know for sure.......and didn't want to guess.

    Nobody purposely designs an engine to have a lower red-line; that just results when all of the other design parameters are met.
    Last edited by Easy Rider; 09-01-2017 at 06:36 PM.

  11. #86
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    Default for a trailer

    I told them it was for a custom trailer which I'm trying to match an existing tire

  12. #87
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    Nobody purposely designs and engine to have a lower red-line; that just results when all of the other design parameters are met.
    NASCAR and Formula One engine designers do. http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine..._cup_to_f1.htm

    At the end of the 2006 competition season, both NASCAR Cup and FIA Formula One engines had reached pinnacles of crankshaft speed for their respective classes of motorsport: 10,000 and 20,000 RPM respectively. Although operating at these RPM levels has since been outmoded by regulation (NASCAR’s ever more stringent use of its ‘gear rule’ and the FIA’s 19,000 RPM rev limit introduced in 2007, reduced to 18,000 RPM for 2009), it seemed interesting to compare these very different engines to see what, if any, areas of commonality might exist.

    2014 Copper RTS

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  13. #88
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    Default Video of car tire on 2 wheel motorcycle

    https://youtu.be/QwSSXHanpv0

    I know $ cost is important--but what's the price of your life ?? Or more likely--the $ cost of an ER visit.

    Nothing quite like having the rear end pass you on a rain slicked road--the Nanny won't be able to handle it once the body mass is in motion.
    Last edited by Wildrice; 09-01-2017 at 06:37 PM.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildrice View Post
    https://youtu.be/QwSSXHanpv0

    I know $ cost is important--but what's the price of your life ??

    Nothing quite like having the rear end pass you on a rain slicked road--the Nanny won't be able to handle it once in motion.
    Please bear in mind that the tire shown in that vid was running at 40 psi - a pressure which is WAAAYYY TOO HIGH for the load it is carrying, and I believe that pressure is also either very close to or possibly even HIGHER than the maximum safe pressure recommended by the manufacturer!! That sized/type of tire generally has a Max Pressure somewhere in the low 30's AT THE MOST - and that's meant to be used ONLY if the tire is supporting a couple of metric tonnes of load!!

    The same tire run at a more suitable pressure for the load (probably high teens/low 20's of psi) it was carrying, it would've shown a markedly different result!! I haven't specifically seen 'that' tire run like that, but I have seen many other tires run in such a manner, all of them showing far more tread contact with the road when run at lower pressures. However, while running a Car tire of similar construction on a leaning motorcycle does have some risks & limitations, they can be minimised (altho not removed entirely) by running at an appropriate pressure for the load. Using the 4psi 'rule' to guide your pressure selection can help!

    All that said, the leaning & cornering forces shown acting on the tire in that vid simply do NOT occur under our Spyders, so that vid really has very little relationship to the tire stresses those of us running car tires under our Spyders may be imposing on our tires.... and by running car tires under our Spyders at an appropriate pressure for the load imposed upon them, I personally am pretty convinced that we'll actually be taking FAR MORE care for our lives than if we continue to run the regularly demonstrated to be crap Kenda tires that are currently foisted upon us by the manufacturers!!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-01-2017 at 06:42 PM.
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  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    NASCAR and Formula One engine designers do.
    Only because they are FORCED to.

    And an adjustable "rev limiter" is not a design feature of the engine.

    Neither is a "restrictor plate" that is added later.

  16. #91
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    Question Any high end options ?

    Are there any high end tires that would fit my 2010 RT ? I really don't care about the price as long as the tires stick well and a longer life than the stock POS that I currently have. What vehicle would I have to say that the tires were going on ?

  17. #92
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default KUMHO TIRE

    Quote Originally Posted by easysuper View Post
    The Kumos are getting harder to find as I've heard they are discontinued in that particular size? I have had luck just calling my local Discount tire stores here in Portland and they have always come up with one in a day or two. This time they had trouble finding one so I went to a Michelin, but was greatly disappointed when I called our favorite dealer who has always mounted our after market tires on the spyders and was told they could no longer mount a tire they did not sell, because of a lawsuit. I did get another Can AM dealer to mount the tire . But am wondering when they will no longer accommodate us due to the same thing.
    Get an Altimax ( the "T" rated one ) it's a lot better tire than the Kumho .......Mike

  18. #93
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default HIGH END TIRE

    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Burped View Post
    Are there any high end tires that would fit my 2010 RT ? I really don't care about the price as long as the tires stick well and a longer life than the stock POS that I currently have. What vehicle would I have to say that the tires were going on ?
    Michelin Premier 215/60-15 ........... or just have one custom made to your specs ..... PS if your order your tire ON-line there is No BS from anybody ......jmho .... Mike

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I'm about 99.4% sure that I agree... Here's why: Over-inflation of tires is usually manifested by increased wear in the center section of the tread. (What you're currently seeing.) Under-inflation usually ends up wearing out the outer portions of the tread first...Usually! Since the Kendas are so flimsy; they actually "balloon" at higher speeds if they're under-inflated. Result: the center section of the tread was doomed from the start! Having said this...There might be a pressure setting that will work perfectly. But if anyone has found it: they're keeping the good news to themselves!
    This video would tend to confirm what several of you have said; it doesn't matter what you do with a Kenda on the rear; the center of the tire will be bald long before the outside treads, rendering it useless.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
    Northern Utah in summer; Yuma, AZ in winter.

  20. #95
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Thumbs down 42 psi tires used on most larger sportbikes

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    Please bear in mind that the tire shown in that vid was running at 40 psi - a pressure which is WAAAYYY TOO HIGH for the load it is carrying, and I believe that pressure is also either very close to or possibly even HIGHER than the maximum safe pressure recommended by the manufacturer!! That sized/type of tire generally has a Max Pressure somewhere in the low 30's AT THE MOST - and that's meant to be used ONLY if the tire is supporting a couple of metric tonnes of load!!
    I disagree with your assumption based on several of the sport bikes I have owned which have weighed from 430 lb Yamaha FZ1 to qty (3) Suzuki Hayabusa's that weighed 530 lbs with a tire pressure rating of 42 psi. Evenly balanced weight distribution 530 lb divide by 2 wheels would be 265 lbs on each of the 42 psi tires without rider.
    The Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) &Canada Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (CMVSS) control tire construction requirements & their decisions aren't controlled by tire manufacturers. Several tire applications may work well on the Spyder provided the road surface is adequate for those applications but that is not always the case. I've never used my airbag either but it is also designed for less than desirable conditions.
    Darrell
    Last edited by Wildrice; 09-02-2017 at 10:34 AM.

  21. #96
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    What you put in your "Hawk's" tires for pressure; has little or nothing to do with a Spyder.
    You can reach speeds that are almost twice as fast!
    You want minimal flexing at those speeds: it builds heat, and destroys tires!

  22. #97
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default WILDRICE

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    What you put in your "Hawk's" tires for pressure; has little or nothing to do with a Spyder.
    You can reach speeds that are almost twice as fast!
    You want minimal flexing at those speeds: it builds heat, and destroys tires!
    ....... Wildrice , you are comparing a TWO completely different tires .... the Design - Construction - handling perimeters etc. are also completely different ....What a TWO Mtc. needs is opposite what the Spyders need ...... Mike

  23. #98
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    I also have significant experience riding on the dark side. Well over fifty thousand miles on it a Honda VTX 1800. Half the cost. Twice the mileage. And like riding on a rail. I once went over 70 miles across Nebraska without touching my handlebars as the rear tire gave so much stability that I could just sit there and lean a little to the left or lean little to the right to make my way down the interstate. I've navigated many twisties on The Darkside including the dragon's tail with no issues whatsoever. I'm a Believer in the dark side.

  24. #99
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Default I Hate Being Wrong !!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    What you put in your "Hawk's" tires for pressure; has little or nothing to do with a Spyder.
    You can reach speeds that are almost twice as fast!
    You want minimal flexing at those speeds: it builds heat, and destroys tires!
    But I must yield to the experienced majority. On this forum , Youtube, etc, everyone agrees that a correct car tire on the Spyder Rear exceeds the Kenda & motorcycle tires.

    Bob & Mike----My 344 rwhp turbo Hayabusa--I sold it last week at the urging of the wife & others. Some say maturity finally set in, I won't mention the fear of shifting gears at 185 mph. Time has slowed my processing the data above 150-175, the patched track bumps, especially side wind gusts, & one 170 mph crash at Maxton NC with a fogged up tight visor. Not everyone got to go home.
    But being Wrong on the tires bruised my sensitive ego . Just send me flowers
    Darrell

  25. #100
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default NOT WRONG

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildrice View Post
    But I must yield to the experienced majority. On this forum , Youtube, etc, everyone agrees that a correct car tire on the Spyder Rear exceeds the Kenda & motorcycle tires.

    Bob & Mike----My 344 rwhp turbo Hayabusa--I sold it last week at the urging of the wife & others. Some say maturity finally set in, I won't mention the fear of shifting gears at 185 mph. Time has slowed my processing the data above 150-175, the patched track bumps, especially side wind gusts, & one 170 mph crash at Maxton NC with a fogged up tight visor. Not everyone got to go home.
    But being Wrong on the tires bruised my sensitive ego . Just send me flowers
    Darrell
    D, it's not about right or wrong ...... I spent quite a bit of my life dealing with tires and as they relate to Accidents .... Got some advanced schooling in the subject .... Now I ( and Peter Aawen ) try to educate Spyderlovers with what works and WHY ... To me it's a real safety issue ...... Tires with the best WET traction are the Highest on my preferred list ..... But with Car tires on any Spyder the psi is UBER important ...people here read lots of great info ( usually by manufactures ) but forget the MFG's are talking about their tires on a CAR and it's not even close to being the same ..... sorry if this got longwinded ....Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 09-03-2017 at 09:26 AM.

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