One more tyme......back to the shop (black hole) she goes.

[Wardawg]

Well I made it to 1000 miles! BTW, she went into LIMP mode exactly at 1000 miles. She still wobbles ike heck at 70 MPH keeping up with traffic on the interstate.....yes tried different air pressures. Can't change the front shock settings since I have no jack (WTF, is up with needing that anyway?), still feel the "rumble strips" at speed as well....heard that may be due to loose bolts?...again, WTF is up with that? Loose battery terminal when I bought her, now loose bolts? Taking her in for work tomorrow. Hopefully they can fix her and get her back to me before Christmas! When she runs good, great feeling....when she doesn't, ready to ditch her.....guess where i'm at now?

[ThreeWheels]

Wobbles ??

Do you mean that it pulls (feels like it's turning of its own accord) from the left side of the road to the right, or is it rolling, making your head move from left to right ?

If it's pulling, you need an alignment. If it's rolling, then finding the correct shock/tire pressure adjustments should do the trick.

[Wardawg]

Wobbles ??

Do you mean that it pulls (feels like it's turning of its own accord) from the left side of the road to the right, or is it rolling, making your head move from left to right ?

If it's pulling, you need an alignment. If it's rolling, then finding the correct shock/tire pressure adjustments should do the trick.

It throws my upper torso left and right as I loosely hang on at 70 plus MPH.

[Wardawg]

I'm sorry to be so blunt but what the frell just buy a jack so you can adjust the shocks and at the same time check the tightness of your shock mounting bolts. Then maybe you wont have to take it into the dealer or if you do you will have more information for them. Here's a link to Sears. Any from $25 to just over $300, pick your price point.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_1...e&prop17=jacks

Sir, I am currently in a temp situation in an apartment awaiting the build of my home. Purchasing a jack in the future is probable... as it seems this contraption will require much more maintenance then ANY vehicle I have ever owned....until then, I must rely on external help..... what really pisses me off is for the amount of money paid for this thing, it ought to work right out of the box....it doesn't, ...Not even close!..and a quick review and monitoring of these forums indicate I'm not the only soul feeling this way and experienckng these quirks.

[piernik]

When we got ours I also noted the feeling you describe as a wobble. My wife on the other hand was much less affected by this and thought I was in her words, "obsessed" in an effort to correct a problem that didn't bother her in the least.


What I found to help the situation was:
1. At home checked rear suspension air pressure, found 0 psi increased to 55, immediate improvement.
2. Ran same section of road at different front tire pressures starting as delivered at 15 psi. Found 18 to work much better.
3. Set front shock preload to 5 (2010 with softer shocks than 2011) so I don't know how much affect this would have on yours although it made a big difference for us.
4. Windscreen position, the lower it's set the less buffeting is noticed.
5. Ride it after this on a straight road, set the cruise and just lay your fingers on the grips. If it still wobbles like this it may have an alignment or other issues but ours will track perfectly straight set like this with no rider input. If after grasping the grips the wobble returns it is rider input and nothing but more time will fix that.

11,500 miles later find it very enjoyable and easy to ride when she will let me! (She's very protective of her RT)

[Wardawg]

When we got ours I also noted the feeling you describe as a wobble. My wife on the other hand was much less affected by this and thought I was in her words, "obsessed" in an effort to correct a problem that didn't bother her in the least.


What I found to help the situation was:
1. At home checked rear suspension air pressure, found 0 psi increased to 55, immediate improvement.
2. Ran same section of road at different front tire pressures starting as delivered at 15 psi. Found 18 to work much better.
3. Set front shock preload to 5 (2010 with softer shocks than 2011) so I don't know how much affect this would have on yours although it made a big difference for us.
4. Windscreen position, the lower it's set the less buffeting is noticed.
5. Ride it after this on a straight road, set the cruise and just lay your fingers on the grips. If it still wobbles like this it may have an alignment or other issues but ours will track perfectly straight set like this with no rider input. If after grasping the grips the wobble returns it is rider input and nothing but more time will fix that.

11,500 miles later find it very enjoyable and easy to ride when she will let me! (She's very protective of her RT)

Thanks. Have tried, 15, 18 and 20 up front. 25, 28 and 30; currently at 15/28. Shocks are at
3. Need a jack to change. How do you check rear suspension PSI? Screen is always down unless if rains.....will explain this all to the tech rep tomorrow. Thanks!

[piernik]

Ours is an AC version so you set the pressure manually through the schraeder valve under the seat on the right side near the brake resivoir. I use a little mini pump with guage attached that is from my HD Ultra just for suspension adjustment. you can also use a regulated supply from a compressor, set it to the desired pressure and inflate until air quits hissing. I don't like using an unregulated supply because the volume is very small and it would be easy to over inflate.

The limited models have an onboard compressor and a switch to raise and lower the pressure. Idon't know what model you have.

[daveinva]

Thanks. Have tried, 15, 18 and 20 up front. 25, 28 and 30; currently at 15/28. Shocks are at
3. Need a jack to change. How do you check rear suspension PSI? Screen is always down unless if rains.....will explain this all to the tech rep tomorrow. Thanks!

Definitely max out the stock suspension. After reading these forums, I never even bothered to ride mine set any other way, I had the dealer do it before I took delivery. I knew I wouldn't be happy with anything less.

I also got the Evo sway bar, but I have an RS; my understanding is the sway bar on the 2011 RT should be roughly comparable in performance.

As for your dealer experience, I'm assuming you're a Coleman Woodbridge guy? Could be worse-- you could be a Coleman Falls Church guy like me.

(Actually, I had a great, if pricey, 600 mile service... sadly, mine's been in the shop for two weeks now because *I* screwed it up. We'll see if they do me right again).

[billythekidd]

I am a little confused about the jack thing. I have mine set at 4 they came from the dealer at three and I just used the tool in the tool kit and moved them to the next setting. No jack required that I could see. Yes, I did grunt a little but it moved to the next spot with no problems. I have the 2011 RTS and about 9+ K on it now. I guess I am lucky because the only maint. I have done on the bike besides washing and such is the scheduled maint. I wish you the best with the handling as at first especially coming from a two wheeler it did seem to "wobble" as you say.

Willy

[boborgera]

I am a little confused about the jack thing. I have mine set at 4 they came from the dealer at three and I just used the tool in the tool kit and moved them to the next setting. No jack required that I could see. .

Willy

You got lucky not using a jack to take the weight off the spring, Quite a few cams broke when a jack wasn't used,
Mine included.

[daveinva]

Here's a stupid question-- do you need a *motorcycle* jack to lift the Spyder?

Meaning, if all you're trying to do is spring the load off the suspension in order to adjust the settings, I would figure that a car jack from any old trunk should do the trick. You're not going to be taking any parts off or working under the Spyder, you only need a few inches of travel here.

Thankfully, I *do* have a motorcycle jack (that great yellow one from Sears), but I dunno if you need that for this.

Anyone try that?

[boborgera]

Here's a stupid question-- do you need a *motorcycle* jack to lift the Spyder?

Meaning, if all you're trying to do is spring the load off the suspension in order to adjust the settings, I would figure that a car jack from any old trunk should do the trick. You're not going to be taking any parts off or working under the Spyder, you only need a few inches of travel here.

Thankfully, I *do* have a motorcycle jack (that great yellow one from Sears), but I dunno if you need that for this.

Anyone try that?

Yep a scissor type jack that folds Farly flat. Most of the compact cars use them.

[draboo]

Do you need a jack to lift a Spyder? No.

I used a 6 foot long 4X4 underneath one side of the front suspension. Lifted up one side of the Spyder (RT) and my wife slid a 16 inch round piece of firewood underneath towards the center, but just off center enough to keep the side you want off the ground and the opposite side on the ground.

I, too, broke a adjusting ring trying to adjust without jacking.

But, I have since invested a C note in a jack.

[Wardawg]

Ours is an AC version so you set the pressure manually through the schraeder valve under the seat on the right side near the brake resivoir. I use a little mini pump with guage attached that is from my HD Ultra just for suspension adjustment. you can also use a regulated supply from a compressor, set it to the desired pressure and inflate until air quits hissing. I don't like using an unregulated supply because the volume is very small and it would be easy to over inflate.

The limited models have an onboard compressor and a switch to raise and lower the pressure. Idon't know what model you have.

Thanks. Yeah, I have a 2011 RTS with the on board suspension control. Played with that as well. Not much help for the wobble.

[Wardawg]

Definitely max out the stock suspension. After reading these forums, I never even bothered to ride mine set any other way, I had the dealer do it before I took delivery. I knew I wouldn't be happy with anything less.

I also got the Evo sway bar, but I have an RS; my understanding is the sway bar on the 2011 RT should be roughly comparable in performance.

As for your dealer experience, I'm assuming you're a Coleman Woodbridge guy? Could be worse-- you could be a Coleman Falls Church guy like me.

(Actually, I had a great, if pricey, 600 mile service... sadly, mine's been in the shop for two weeks now because *I* screwed it up. We'll see if they do me right again).

Thanks, yeah...Coleman Woodbridge. Not happy with them, but not many other options.

I'm going to ask them to take it out on 95 and open her up. Wobble and rumbling strip...

Then ask them to adjust the front to four and go from there. Not sure about the rumble strips...loose bolts? We'll see....two weeks is the norm....sucks!

[daveinva]

Thanks, yeah...Coleman Woodbridge. Not happy with them, but not many other options.

I'm going to ask them to take it out on 95 and open her up. Wobble and rumbling strip...

Then ask them to adjust the front to four and go from there. Not sure about the rumble strips...loose bolts? We'll see....two weeks is the norm....sucks!

If you don't get enough love out of them with your issues, it's a hike, but I've heard great things about Talbot's out across the Bay Bridge (bonecrusher here on the forum is a huge fan). Also, Trumbull over in MD just opened up again, I don't know anything about how their service department is, but I think they're all BRP, i.e. they don't also have to worry about bikes like the Colemans do.

Good luck...

[Wardawg]

If you don't get enough love out of them with your issues, it's a hike, but I've heard great things about Talbot's out across the Bay Bridge (bonecrusher here on the forum is a huge fan). Also, Trumbull over in MD just opened up again, I don't know anything about how their service department is, but I think they're all BRP, i.e. they don't also have to worry about bikes like the Colemans do.

Good luck...

Thanks!

[Wardawg]

Well I made it to 1000 miles! BTW, she went into LIMP mode exactly at 1000 miles. She still wobbles ike heck at 70 MPH keeping up with traffic on the interstate.....yes tried different air pressures. Can't change the front shock settings since I have no jack (WTF, is up with needing that anyway?), still feel the "rumble strips" at speed as well....heard that may be due to loose bolts?...again, WTF is up with that? Loose battery terminal when I bought her, now loose bolts? Taking her in for work tomorrow. Hopefully they can fix her and get her back to me before Christmas! When she runs good, great feeling....when she doesn't, ready to ditch her.....guess where i'm at now?

So I take her in the shop at Colemans in Woodbridge. Explain the wobble, grinding and DPS....which happened again right before pulling into gas station. Explain to him all the recommendations y'all have given me and he stays, "you shouldn't listing to them.' Bwah!

He says these things handle this way....right and that is the friggin problem!!

So he takes if in, adjust the front shocks to 4. Says give it a try. I asked what about the grinding and DPS light? He said I'd have to leave it there and they would look at it. Said they are backlogged (no ****?) and they may "look at it in a week or two.

So there you have it. In the black hole for who knows how long. Hopefully she'll be better whenever I get her back. Man all that money and down tyme on my toy. Sad, friggin sad...

[spyder3]

wardawg,

You have other options. why not use them? It's worth it to ride to a dealer if they do a better job...plus you get to ride it there.

[Tonga]

The air in the rear shock has to be preloaded so that the auto leveling can be used on the dash. It will adjust up and down but if you only have 20psi in it at lowest setting then it will maintain that level. I would put at least 50 psi in and go from there. Front shocks set max, tires in the front is personal preference as I have tried them all and find 20 psi suits my needs. Rear pressure for tires to wear evenly across the tread should be lower then 28psi or the rear will wear in the center. I can not promise this for sure and can only give my observations and discussions with other owners that have lowered rear pressure from 28 to 23psi. I will try 24psi on my next tire and have my last 1000 miles set at 24 psi. I find it harder to spin my rear now so maybe it is sitting flatter? The front alignment is a must as well, even if you have to pay for it, I didn't because my dealer found it out of adjustment and I was low enough mileage so he covered it for me. Good luck!

[dadof4]

I use the sissor jack that came with my Chrysler Town and Country. I place it under the "A" arm and lift one front wheels at a time. I do this when I give the Spyder a a good cleaning and I want to clean the inside of the front rims. Last week I loaded the Spyder on my trailer and by sheer dumb luck both of the front wheels were positioned so the valve stem was in the way of the ratchet straps. As I had already lower the front end of the trailer and folded and latched the ramp I used the jack. It took less 5 minutes to lift both sides and rotate the wheels. I use the same jack to lift the rear wheel.

[NancysToy]

You got lucky not using a jack to take the weight off the spring, Quite a few cams broke when a jack wasn't used,
Mine included.

The 2011 RT has steel adjusting rings, so breakage is less likely...but jacking up is still specified in the manual. Spraing liberally with WD-40 before adjusting helps prevent breakage, to, and makes turing the adjusters a lot easier.

The air in the rear shock has to be preloaded so that the auto leveling can be used on the dash.

The RTS and LTD do not have to have the suspension pre-loaded. The compressor will fill the airbag on the intial fill. BTW, if pressures revert to zero after the initial fill, the system has a leak, and should be repaired.

[Wardawg]

wardawg,

You have other options. why not use them? It's worth it to ride to a dealer if they do a better job...plus you get to ride it there.

Where? I cannot travel miles and have my wife follow to pick me up, then bring me back when the byke is ready. Do I stay at the shop for 8 hours waiting? Will they even have it out in one day? TELL ME WHERE THIS KIND OF SUPPORT FOR A SPYDER IS IN NOVA? get to ryde it there? With it In limp mode? Don't think so...

[Wardawg]

The air in the rear shock has to be preloaded so that the auto leveling can be used on the dash. It will adjust up and down but if you only have 20psi in it at lowest setting then it will maintain that level. I would put at least 50 psi in and go from there. Front shocks set max, tires in the front is personal preference as I have tried them all and find 20 psi suits my needs. Rear pressure for tires to wear evenly across the tread should be lower then 28psi or the rear will wear in the center. I can not promise this for sure and can only give my observations and discussions with other owners that have lowered rear pressure from 28 to 23psi. I will try 24psi on my next tire and have my last 1000 miles set at 24 psi. I find it harder to spin my rear now so maybe it is sitting flatter? The front alignment is a must as well, even if you have to pay for it, I didn't because my dealer found it out of adjustment and I was low enough mileage so he covered it for me. Good luck!

thanks!

[daveinva]

Where? I cannot travel miles and have my wife follow to pick me up, then bring me back when the byke is ready. Do I stay at the shop for 8 hours waiting? Will they even have it out in one day? TELL ME WHERE THIS KIND OF SUPPORT FOR A SPYDER IS IN NOVA? get to ryde it there? With it In limp mode? Don't think so...

Wardawg: one option is to call or better visit a different Spyder dealer in the area (I gave you two-- Pete's Cycle up in Baltimore is a third, Fredericksburg Motor Sports is a fourth) and explain to them your problems. Just be your friendly self and walk them through how it rides, explain what the other techs told you (don't be judgmental, just the facts), and ask if they can offer a second opinion with same-day service (the latter being important-- you might have to "schedule" an appointment, and it might not be the most convenient of times, but this way you may be able to get in and get out).

If you *can* ride it not in limp mode, you can take it there, get it checked out, and take it home. If they think they can address it with more work, then yes, you may need a ride home, but you'll at least have some peace and mind after up and close and personal with a Spyder tech(s).

Also, while I'm uncertain about the area's Spyder dealers, many motorcycle dealers IME do local pick-up and deliveries for a nominal fee. Yes, it's money, yes it sucks, but it solves your transport problem.

But if you can't get a dealer to do it, I used this guy to transport my Spyder down from the dealer I bought it from up in Philly, and since then a friend of mine has used him to transport his ancient Suzuki to the shop:

http://www.dcscootertransport.com/

Owner's name is Tom, friendliest guy, he's very experienced and VERY helpful. He's also a little loud from not wearing earplugs . He'll do curbside pickup with his trailer and turn it around ASAP for a reasonable flat fee and mileage.

Again, good luck...