Exhaust wrap installed .... Observations

[RShrimp]

I wrapped my exhaust and am very happy with the results!
A few observations:

I used 1/8 inch by 2 inch.
You need a 50 foot roll to do the whole system.
The Stainless Zip ties suck. Just use hose clamps.
Replace the donut gaskets while you have the system off the bike. My right side was bad at 7000 miles.
The exhaust system is a PITA to remove and reinstall. You need the right tools and some patience. It can be done though. The hardest part of the job was getting the front pipe off.
I installed the wrap "wet" (just soak it in water) and that seemed to make it easier to do. The stuff does not strech so it takes a few tries to get it right.
I used plastic Zip ties as a temporary help to hold it in place during the wrap. Once the hose clamps are in place the zip ties are removed.
Total cost around $40 plus the new Honda gaskets.


Was it worth it?
YES! YES! YES! It directs a lot more of the heat out the back. The temp under the plastic has dropped a bunch. The heat that gets on you has decreased signifigantly!
Performance?????? It was about the heat for me .......

I am sorry for the lack of pictures but I think an electromagnetic bomb was deployed in my house last week. (not really but it seems every piece of electronics in my house has died in the last week) Notice I have not posted for over a week ......

[canam9]

Very Cool!! No pun.

[WackyDan]

Shrimp...

Did you actually remove the headers from the cylinders?

[Firefly]

Any concerns about damage? My HD pals tell me that wrapping fuel injected engines is a no-no.

[bcspyder]

The only concern with the wrap is if the pipes are double wall. Don't know if that is the case with the Spyder. In a double wall construction the interior of the pipe may get too hot and the material can break down. I have had wrap on my Vegas' pipes for a while and the drop in temp is amazing. After a ride you can pretty much put your hand on the pipes so I can see it significantly dropping temps in the engine compartment.

[RShrimp]

Shrimp...

Did you actually remove the headers from the cylinders?

Yes, You would never get it installed tightly, if at all, without removing the pipes.

The pipes are double wall Stainless. If it melts them after a couple years it will be worth it, however I seriously dought it will cause a problem. It is not a Busa Turbo with 1400 degree exhaust temps. .... but I see your point.

[jabba11]

Any concerns about damage? My HD pals tell me that wrapping fuel injected engines is a no-no.

what are their concerns?? i understand there is a chance that it may lean the bike some which can be an issue when combined with other things like a free flowing air filter etc. I have seen ceramic coated pipes for fuel injected cars, it does the same thing but is more expensive. I would really like to get mine to be cooler under the plastic 9and on me) and so i want to wrap mine too but there is some conflicting info on what it will do.

[Firefly]

what are their concerns?? i understand there is a chance that it may lean the bike some which can be an issue when combined with other things like a free flowing air filter etc. I have seen ceramic coated pipes for fuel injected cars, it does the same thing but is more expensive. I would really like to get mine to be cooler under the plastic 9and on me) and so i want to wrap mine too but there is some conflicting info on what it will do.

I think the main concern was causing problems with the fuel injection because you're changing the exhausttemp and it could cause a problem with the o2 sensor. Now this was from HD guys--- and they said HD will void warranty if you wrap pipes on a bike with FI.

Most of them do the wraps for looks-- not performance.

[SpyderWolf]

RShrimp, how far did you take the exhaust wraps on your pipes? Did you take the time to cover the Y connections as well? I have been thinking about doing the same thing to mine, but also covering the Y. I am wondering if it might actually help the Y gaskets last longer, or possibly make it where they are no longer a factor due to the wrap.

Of course, it would make it a pain to have to unwrap them if you still needed to change out the gaskets later on.

[RShrimp]

I wraped it all the way to the muffler but did each pipe seperatly. I quit at the spring tabs on each pipe. The system can be removed or installed just as it could be when stock. I did the 4 parts seperatly.

[SpyderWolf]

I wraped it all the way to the muffler but did each pipe seperatly. I quit at the spring tabs on each pipe. The system can be removed or installed just as it could be when stock. I did the 4 parts seperatly.

Thanks for the info, as that makes sense as well. However, what I am now wondering is if the uncovered section is now a weak spot in your exhaust chain?

[aka1004]

my first dealer the wrapped the pipes on BRP(yes brp paid the dealer to do it) to cut down on heat in hopes of cutting down on gas fume in process. i think it did help a little but next two dealers and ken with evoluzione was against it so the 3rd dealer UN wrapped them... they were saying it may cut the heat from reaching you a little but may/will be harmful to engine.
i don't wanna wrap them again but i am looking for heat barrier for gas tank where the exhaust pipe runs parallel to. after they un-wrapped it, pipe was so hot, adhesive residue on gas tank was sizzling.

[Freddy]

I wrapped the left pipe from near the cylinder to a bit above the first join. It's made a noticable improvement to heat reduction.

[krb1945]

"She who must be obeyed" directed, requested, me to wrap hers a year ago. She told told me after the first ride it made a big difference in temperature around the leg area. So after hearing that... I did mine even though it is a knuckle skinning job with the pipes installed. Well worth it to us. Ken krb1945

[SpyderWolf]

I think I will be wrapping mine in the not too distant future as well.

[Marc Goldstone]

I am a fairly new Spyder owner. (Purchased our 2010 RSS bike two months ago)

In my humble opinion the SE5 Spyder has a design issue that causes excessive temperatures on the legs of the driver. This is most prevalent when the ambient temperature exceeds about 100 degrees F. In the desert southwest and Bullhead City Arizona in particular our summer temperatures have already reached 113 degrees and it is only the beginning of June. The right leg gets the brunt of the heat, except when the wind is blowing from the right side of the bike, then the left leg experiences uncomfortable temperatures. If stopped at a long traffic light, the initial heat appeared to be from the exhaust, (no leaks) but when the radiator fan kicked in the pain got really unbearable.

The following "fixes" describe an acceptable resolution of the engine heat problem:

First, I purchased and installed the Spyderpops "missing air dam" which seemed to help cool the engine more effectively (fewer bars while moving) but the leg burning continued at high ambient temperatures and while stopped. A partial fix at best.

In frustration I next tried two additional modifications implemented at the same time. The first was to wrap both exhaust pipes with 2" width graphite black exhaust insulating wrap from the engine exhaust port down to the spring loaded exhaust flange on the left side and beyond the spring (spring not covered) down to the bottom of the bike on the right exhaust pipe. The wrap was applied dry with about 1/2" of overlap. I didn't bother to wrap the exhaust pipes located at the very bottom of the bike as the frame adequately deflects that heat. I found the stainless steel "cable wraps" difficult to install and tighten so instead I used some steel wire like the type used to tie rebar. Looping one or two turns around the Fiberglas wrapping material and twisting tight with a plier was much quicker and far superior at clamping the pipe wrap to the exhaust pipe. I read about this pipe wrap on the forums.

Lastly I fabricated an air dam extension for the right side cowling to deflect more air from the cooling fan out the opening on the right side of the cowling. I got the idea for this from several forum posts (Australian and Domestic) Rather than using a "notebook cover" plastic material I chose a piece of aluminum roof flashing and was able to gradually cut it to size in place. It was then screwed to the standard plastic air dam and for good measure was also siliconed in place. I added a strip of "continuous grommet" made of nylon material and siliconed it on the edge that is closest to the fan shroud because the cut aluminum edge was sharp. Since the radiator host runs along the top edge of the plastic air dam I was careful in the screw placement to avoid puncturing the hose.

The first test took place today and in 109 degree heat the only heat on the right leg (wearing shorts) was when my thigh touched the torx body panel screws. They were somewhat hot but easy to avoid by adjusting my leg position. There was absolutely no uncomfortable heat felt on either leg even in stop and go traffic.

My Wife and I will be driving 750 miles next week through southern Utah, Zion National Park, Page Arizona, the south rim of the grand canyon and finally old route 66 back to Bullhead City. The temperatures can be expected to be well over 110 degrees at times so this will be a good test, though I am confident that the problem has been solved.

It took about an hour of driving to burn off the silicone coating on the "cool it" Thermo Tec exhaust wrap which I purchased from Auto Zone for about $50. During that time the bike give off some smoke but not to worry, there is no chance of a fire during this out gassing.

My next redesign project of a much lesser priority will be to resolve the brake squeal. I plan on trying some 3M VHB high temperature tape between the piston and the brake shoes. Again the idea came from several forum posts.

[SpyderWolf]

Thanks for that information as well. I was also wondering about tying it with wire like that instead, as I had heard those stainless zip ties do not work very well either.

[Marc Goldstone]

Didn't get into a lot of detail on wrapping technique. After much experimentation, I found that "rebar tie wire" is the ticket. Wrap two or more turns around pipe then twist loose ends until tight. Available at Home Depot.

Wrapped pipes without removing them, but it took several hours. Used a few drops of contact cement to fasten first inch of tape to the exhaust flange. When dry continue wrapping the pipes. Adhesive burns off but held the wrap in place while tightening. Otherwise nearly impossible to do a neat job.

It took about 40 feet of 2" width wrap to cover the pipes as described in post.

[NancysToy]

Didn't get into a lot of detail on wrapping technique. After much experimentation, I found that "rebar tie wire" is the ticket. Wrap two or more turns around pipe then twist loose ends until tight. Available at Home Depot.

Wrapped pipes without removing them, but it took several hours. Used a few drops of contact cement to fasten first inch of tape to the exhaust flange. When dry continue wrapping the pipes. Adhesive burns off but held the wrap in place while tightening. Otherwise nearly impossible to do a neat job.

It took about 40 feet of 2" width wrap to cover the pipes as described in post.

Racing safety wire is much the same thing. Good idea!