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Any Recommendations on brake pads?
2012 RT - Squeaking at first on start up, then it stops. But today I could definitely feel a bit of grinding when pressing hard on the brake at all. So I wanna get new ones on there asap while we still have a bit of decent weather for the season.
I don’t know if anyone swears by a specific brand or if there are any ones to avoid?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-08-2022 at 04:58 PM.
Reason: Caps
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Very Active Member
BajaRon, a sponsor on this site, sells EBC pads and rotors, a great improvement in braking power.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-08-2022 at 04:58 PM.
Reason: ' 's ;-)
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
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My Spyder
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
BajaRon, a sponsor on this site, sells EBC pads and rotors, a great improvement in braking power.
Well hopefully, I only need the pads! lol
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-08-2022 at 04:59 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
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Very Active Member
You didn't say how many miles are on your Spyder but it is 10 years old and you did say you had a grinding noise, so maybe, you might need a rotor.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-08-2022 at 05:26 PM.
Reason: ','s ;-)
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
I replaced all the rotors and EBC pads on my '13 RTL and was stunned by how much better the Spyder stopped. Have your rotors examined, measured, before you decide to not get them.
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
You didn't say how many miles are on your Spyder but it is 10 years old and you did say you had a grinding noise, so maybe, you might need a rotor.
One owner before me, got it last month at around 17,800 miles. It’s at just over 19k miles now.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-08-2022 at 05:28 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Chrono00
One owner before me, got it last month at around 17,800 miles. It’s at just over 19k miles now.
I have over 71,000 mi. & my rotors are well within spec ..... and I now use Ron's EBC pads ...... Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-08-2022 at 05:29 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
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HH or V friction material?
Are you using the EBC HH sintered SB101C compound or V semi-sintered E391 compound?
I have HH and am disappointed in pad warmup and moisture clearing performance. HH is great when warmed-up and dry but takes too many revolutions to get there. I'm thinking V is better for my purposes.
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
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So I know most new vehicles have some squeaking with new brakes. Is there a standard time/miles used as far as how long to expect squeaking on new brakes for the 2012 Spyder RT?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-12-2022 at 11:05 PM.
Reason: Caps
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-12-2022 at 11:21 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Doesn't matter if it's a 2012 RT or a 2022 RT or any other Spyder, Ryker, or any other motor vehicle for that matter, if it's got disc or drum brakes then how long it takes for new brakes to stop squealing all depends on how often you use the brakes; how hard you press them each time you have used them & do use them; how long before you break down & pull the brakes apart to slather more anti-squeal on the backs of the pads; &/or how long since you last changed your hearing aid batteries/had your hearing aids updated....
So NO, there is NO standard time/miles for how long to expect squealing.... the question falls into basically the same category as asking how long is a piece of string; or how long is a long weight for a 'plane!
If you've put anti-squeal on the backs of the pads, generally a firm application of the brakes will mean there's no squeal, it's usually only when you gently stroke the brake pedal so that the pad material doesn't actually get firmly pushed onto the discs, but not so hard it locks them up before you're stopped! . So for most, if you've got or get squealing brakes, then generally all it takes to minimise the squeal is to brake harder (without locking the brakes up!) & make each application a positive braking process instead of being a gentle squeeze!
Enjoy!
So as a general rule, whether car or bike, i tend to pay attention to traffic, and ideally leaving a decent gap between me and the vehicle in front of me, I will either coast and brake to a stop, or have to lightly brake, as opposed to stopping suddenly/quickly which would require applying firm or full quick pressure on the brakes to stop much quicker.
Are you saying there is a benefit to using the brakes more when newer to “brake them in” so to speak? Or is it better to just continue as is, and let the squeaking continue a little
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by Chrono00
So as a general rule, whether car or bike, i tend to pay attention to traffic, and ideally leaving a decent gap between me and the vehicle in front of me, I will either coast and brake to a stop, or have to lightly brake, as opposed to stopping suddenly/quickly which would require applying firm or full quick pressure on the brakes to stop much quicker.
Are you saying there is a benefit to using the brakes more when newer to “brake them in” so to speak? Or is it better to just continue as is, and let the squeaking continue a little
Well, YES, there is a benefit to doing that 'brake them in' bit by braking a little firmer when they're new (but that's NOT to say harder! ); and there's also a benefit to braking juuust a little firmer the rest of the time too.... basically all you're doing is exactly what you outline above that EXCEPT for the 'brake lightly' bit at the end - only that DOES NOT necessarily mean you need to 'stop quicker' or 'stop suddenly from a full quick application'..... it just means that you shouldn't be a wooz on the brakes EVER!!
If you want a General Rule, it should be something like: 'Brake early and Brake firmly (but not HARD or AGGRESSIVELY!) & if applicable change down as you coast (so you're always in the right gear to get outta there fast if you need to) then when you need to come to a stop at the end you can use just one longish but firm application of your brakes in a way that the front of your Spyder JUST dips under the braking effort but your pedal application is still firm enough that the brakes don't squeal!'
Lotsa little light barely there brake applications really aren't necessarily all that good for your brakes; you should always use a positive & 'reasonably firm' application, pressing with authority sufficiently hard that you can feel (even if it's only juuust feel) the retardation that your pedal application brings &/or you can just see the front of the Spyder dip as you roll up to a stop without letting or requiring your braking to result in a sudden or full application!! Make sense?? It's the 'too gentle' stuff that makes your brakes squeal & glazes the brakes over time!! . You need to be positive & firm in your brake applications without being aggressive or sudden - it's just 'firm', ie. in a resolute and determined manner that's not sudden or aggressive but rather just enough that you can feel that you're juuust beyond your brakes squealing! If you coast to a stop (making sure that even if you don't 'engine brake', you still practice 'good driving techniques' as you do slow by changing down progressively in order to match your road speed to the gear selection in a way that'll keep your engine revs in the useable range as you do, just in case you need to suddenly take evasive action.... ) then you should only need one reasonably firm application at the end/where you want to come to a final stop, easing off as you arrive to avoid causing a sudden &/or deep dip in the front suspension - you should feel a barely there dip up front but end with a positive stop exactly where you want it to be, if you get what I'm trying to say?!? Avoid pussy footing it on the brakes &/or the repeated little light dabbing on the brakes like the plague - instead try applying one longer firm application that's NOT QUICK OR AGGRESSIVE - you should aim for it to start out maybe as much as 1/4, progressing up to 1/2 of normal full braking, then easing off at the end to make the whole thing about 3-4 times longer than a sudden stop &/or one of thosee piss-ant light dabs that squeal like buggry, kill brakes, & that I see a lot of around here.
Basically, if your brakes are squealing, it's cos you're being too light/gentle on the pedal; press a little harder but make it smooooth & progressive! And don't ever STOMP on your brake pedal unless you want to stop your Spyder dead - if you plant your foot right thru the pedal so that the foot plate drops away like it's designed to, then your Spyder will stop on a dime, outbraking just about anything else on the road by a heap, including outbraking SuperCars & Sports Cars & all those other things that people might THINK can brake pretty well but in practice weigh 4 or more times as much as your Spyder, which has barely 1/3rd less than the best of them in the way of braking capacity!! So of course your Spyder stops quicker/harder/shorter than all those heavyweights WHEN YOU want it to!
Does all that lot make sense to you?? It's an epic I know, but if you've got anti-squeal on the back of your brake pads & they're still squealing, chances are that you're being too gentle on the pedal, which you should always address with authority, being firm but smooth in every brake application - get it right, and your brakes will work better for you for longer, the pads & discs will last longer, and you won't be plagued by brake squeal! Good Luck!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-14-2022 at 04:39 AM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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