After getting locked out this weekend I want to stop using the key for frunk access and seat access. I have attached 2 pics of the frunk lock. The cable pulls from the right to trip the lock open. What is the best/easyest way to run a cable and where to? Seen and heard diff ways. Just wanna make it as simple as possible. Thanks, Mike
After getting locked out this weekend I want to stop using the key for frunk access and seat access. I have attached 2 pics of the frunk lock. The cable pulls from the right to trip the lock open. What is the best/easyest way to run a cable and where to? Seen and heard diff ways. Just wanna make it as simple as possible. Thanks, Mike
I find this Thread of yours interesting - Gene answered this issue for you on His Thread on the 25th .....which you saw because YOU also POSTED on that Thread ..........Sooooo my question is - How many times do you need the Answer ......... Mike
I RAN MINE OUT THE L[DRIVERS] side and bent a hefty "L" in it and hid it in the back of the wheelhouse. lotsa pics out there. ride out and look at mine youre not that far away.
not pretty but fast and functional. by the way ,i kinda followed mikes advice
2 years ago!
Last edited by irvin48; 05-28-2018 at 09:09 AM.
2015 rts-white pearl- mods- '16 F3 fat 6 chrome wheels,
and some little stuff. setback utopia backrest, baja ron
sway bar, oem adj. air deflectors, marlin gps compass,
lamonster fbb foot pegs[modified brackets], lamonts
vibration damper, rock guard, and side case stiffener kit,
. brp comfort seat. , fomozas and
altimax, magic mirror mts, and wide mirrors.
[joyce & irvin toms]
After getting locked out this weekend I want to stop using the key for frunk access and seat access. I have attached 2 pics of the frunk lock. The cable pulls from the right to trip the lock open. What is the best/easyest way to run a cable and where to? Seen and heard diff ways. Just wanna make it as simple as possible. Thanks, Mike
I removed the 2 panels at the top inside the frunk and saw where the original cable attaches and there is a small hole above where the stock one attaches that I attached a snap swivel and ran a coat hanger out to the lift side wheel. It was simple and works. I could not get the snap swivel to close so I need a slightly larger one that I will pick up tomorrow and use something better that a coat hanger. If I could get to where the stock cable attaches to the ignition switch and run it out the side that would be easy or I thought I had a choke cable in the garage (I don't) that would work too. I agree with whomever said nothing should be attached to the ignition as it is asking for trouble.
Mike
I removed the 2 panels at the top inside the frunk and saw where the original cable attaches and there is a small hole above where the stock one attaches that I attached a snap swivel and ran a coat hanger out to the lift side wheel. It was simple and works. . I agree with whomever said nothing should be attached to the ignition as it is asking for trouble.
Mike
Did mine in similar fashion yesterday. What made it real easy was the pre-drilled hole above the stock lever attachment. Ran a coated wire down to the left inspection panel, attached a key ring, and DONE !! Probably 15 minutes.
I had the seat release done another 15 minutes later. Fishing line attached then led the free end into the glove box on a key ring (thanks to another member's idea ), can't even see the line when the seat is down.
I also coated both locks with a silicone spray as a preventive measure.
BIG, BIG thanks to all who posted ideas and pics previously, they all helped my work be so much easier.
That is out in the open and an invitation for someone to pull on it. Just saying!!!!
Dean Secord AKA seaweed
Veteran: U.S. Air Force
2015 RT-S SE6
My Mods: TricLed Turn Signal, Squared Away Sept, 2016,SpyderPops Bump Skid, SpyderPops Missing Rock Guard, ION camera, Show Chrome Back Rest,
Show Chrome Hitch. Leesure-lite trailer, Hopnel 850 Saddlebag Liners, Hopnel 3 piece lid netset - trunk and saddlebags
Magic Brake Strobe/Flasher, DIY LED light strips on upper and lower A frames, BlueKnight911 Magic Mirrors,
DIY superior grill, USB port, Hwy pegs, DIY Flag mounts for USA and US Air Force flags,
Method to open Frunk and seat without using key, LED headlights and LED fog lights, turn signal switch safety mod
I find this Thread of yours interesting - Gene answered this issue for you on His Thread on the 25th .....which you saw because YOU also POSTED on that Thread ..........Sooooo my question is - How many times do you need the Answer ......... Mike
sometimes I'm looking at so many diff posts I forget where I saw something, sorry, Mike
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round, with sag adjusted for extra 3/8” clearance up front
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
How do you remove the center panel right above the lever in the top pic, I have removed both side panels, Thanks, Mike
The long side panels have to be loosened at the front so that the screw holding that center panel can be removed (it's hidden). Then there are two screws underneath the center panel and then the obvious ones at the mirror. Hope that helps.
Pete - from these pics ...... it looks like - to get to the end of the wire so you can pull it .....the Frunk must already be open ....... if the Frunk is open why have this to open the Frunk .... ???? ...... if I'm missing something please explain ...............Thanks ....... Mike
The long side panels have to be loosened at the front so that the screw holding that center panel can be removed (it's hidden). Then there are two screws underneath the center panel and then the obvious ones at the mirror. Hope that helps.
The mods I made are not out in the open, I wouldn't think of doing them in that fashion. They're completely out of sight.
HayRog is correct!! It is best to conceal the device to open the frunk and/or even the seat if you do it also. Also by using a solid wire and having it rub against the Spyder body like
shown in the 3rd picture is an invitation for scratching of the body. But do as you wish!
Dean Secord AKA seaweed
Veteran: U.S. Air Force
2015 RT-S SE6
My Mods: TricLed Turn Signal, Squared Away Sept, 2016,SpyderPops Bump Skid, SpyderPops Missing Rock Guard, ION camera, Show Chrome Back Rest,
Show Chrome Hitch. Leesure-lite trailer, Hopnel 850 Saddlebag Liners, Hopnel 3 piece lid netset - trunk and saddlebags
Magic Brake Strobe/Flasher, DIY LED light strips on upper and lower A frames, BlueKnight911 Magic Mirrors,
DIY superior grill, USB port, Hwy pegs, DIY Flag mounts for USA and US Air Force flags,
Method to open Frunk and seat without using key, LED headlights and LED fog lights, turn signal switch safety mod
Sooooo the other day while I was in the garage putting my BRP headset from an old helmet into a new helmet, I got to thinking "what-if" my frunk won't open or my seat either, someday?? I've been reading these threads and decided, even though I have had no issues with either, I made a cable-pull out of steel fishing leader with a swivel connected to the latch and a loop on the other end, that is just long enough so you can lift the back edge of the frunk lid to get a finger into the loop and pull and whala! it unlatches. For the seat, I used some safety-wire and twisted a key ring at one end and twisted it about 5" long, drilled a hole thru the plastic pan by the dipstick, ran the twisted wire thru that and secured it around the cable/spring mechanism and of coarse, you pull the front Rt. edge of the seat, grab the key ring and whala! it unlatches. Thanks for all the ideas, gang!!, My wife said that, I'm the only person she knows of, that worries about a problem that isn't a problem yet!! She walked off shaking her head muttering something. Mac
Pete - from these pics ...... it looks like - to get to the end of the wire so you can pull it .....the Frunk must already be open ....... if the Frunk is open why have this to open the Frunk .... ???? ...... if I'm missing something please explain ...............Thanks ....... Mike
Sure. I was wondering about that, too, until Lew (Kaos) showed me his installation when I met up with him in central Utah last week. He showed me there's enough flex in that corner of the frunk lid to lift it up enough to reach the pull cord (he used cord). That's the part of this mod that had held me back for so long from doing it.
Some people (e.g. Chupaca) run it out to a place underneath the side panel but I couldn't see that would work on my RT (he has an RSS), so when Lew showed me how easy it is to access it under the corner of the frunk lid, that spurred me on. Well, that and the fact my wife's RT ignition switch broke and we couldn't open her seat or frunk...!
So, in response to the critics who assume for some reason I left the bitter end of the pull wire in plain sight...I didn't.
Did mine in similar fashion yesterday. What made it real easy was the pre-drilled hole above the stock lever attachment. Ran a coated wire down to the left inspection panel, attached a key ring, and DONE !! Probably 15 minutes. I had the seat release done another 15 minutes later. Fishing line attached then led the free end into the glove box on a key ring (thanks to another member's idea ), can't even see the line when the seat is down. I also coated both locks with a silicone spray as a preventive measure. BIG, BIG thanks to all who posted ideas and pics previously, they all helped my work be so much easier.
How about some pictures showing the way you did it? Thanks.
Frunk release.
Pic 1 -- direction the wire takes from lever down to the inspection panel.
pic 2 -- behind inspection panel, the key ring barely visible, attached by a mini clip.
pic 3 -- how the wire attaches to the lever
To release frunk, open inspection panel and pull wire.
pic 1 -- end of fishing line, tied to a key ring, cinched by a white cable tie and dropped into bottom right corner of glove box. Hidden when lid and seat are down.
pic 2 -- direction of fishing line from glove box and down through a hole I drilled to the left of the dip stick.
pic 3 -- fishing line attached, knotted and knot fixed with superglue, to the seat release lever.
To release seat, remove line from glove box and bring in line with bottom front of seat -- pull to the right -- viola!!
don't know how two of those pics made it to the above post also -- pilot error
pic 1 -- end of fishing line, tied to a key ring, cinched by a white cable tie and dropped into bottom right corner of glove box. Hidden when lid is down.
pic 2 -- direction of fishing line from glove box and down through a hole I drilled to the left of the dip stick.
pic 3 -- fishing line attached, knotted and knot fixed with superglue, to the seat release lever.
don't know how two of those pics made it to the above post also -- pilot error
What is the best way to by-pass the frunk lock?
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Originally Posted by wmh9680
. Mac
don't know how two of those pics made it to the above post also -- pilot error 
