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Active Member
I think the rear suspension system of my 2011 RT ltd does not work
Good morning to all.
Here again with my existential doubts cause I think the rear suspension system of my 2011 RT ltd does not work.
When I press the button to increase or decrease the pressure, I do not hear the pump start even if the "manual" error does not appear on the screen and everything seems to be fine.
A few weeks ago I put air directly to the shock absorber from the Schrader valve but it seems that it has come down again.
I thought that once the shock absorber was inflated, the system maintained that pressure when the sensor noticed that the level had dropped but in my RT none of that seems to be working. It isn’t?
Do you have any procedure to verify?
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Active Member
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
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Manuals
and getting a manual online is a cheap way to find all the testing needed for your s pyder. Even if you don't do the work yourself. Remember unless your airbag leaks down, in which case you will hear the compressor working often, you may not notice it. The system is a leveling one unlike others it will not make the Ryde softer or harder or make it Ryde higher or lower than level.... one quick check is the leveling arm attached to the swingarm.
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Does your horn work as the compressor is on the same fuse. Do all the other checks as advised but I would think your compessor packed it in as hundreds of others have, a common problem as mine has and my friends both on 2012 RT Limited. If it is, a cheap way and simplest is bypass the compressor and run an air line from the shrade valve to the air bag and manually adjust the pressure to your liking. Or have the air compressor replaced with an OEM compressor for $500.00 Plus just to fail again. Good Luck.
Roger
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RT-S PE#0801
There are
some good after market units that are rather inexpensive compared to the OEM unit. however, that means that you or a friend do the the R & R. There are some instructional videos on this subject also, Doc Riverside has a very good one.
Originally Posted by R FUN
Does your horn work as the compressor is on the same fuse. Do all the other checks as advised but I would think your compessor packed it in as hundreds of others have, a common problem as mine has and my friends both on 2012 RT Limited. If it is, a cheap way and simplest is bypass the compressor and run an air line from the shrade valve to the air bag and manually adjust the pressure to your liking. Or have the air compressor replaced with an OEM compressor for $500.00 Plus just to fail again. Good Luck.
Roger
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
VIAIR do a little compressor that is continuous rated & has better air flow than the OE unit & altho round in cross section rather than a flattened oval, will fit in the same spot once you clock the pump head & valve around so it points in the right direction without hitting the wheel or suspension. Can't remember tyhe number, but I think it's 9500 or something vaguely like that....
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Active Member
Then I'll start checking electric conections, the leveling arm and leaking.
The main problem, I think, will be to achieve space to work on it and see what is happening.
If at the end I need change the compressor I'll go for the VIAIR and I'll do the replace when
I change the rear tyre.
Thanks a lot everyone for your help once more again.
I'll keep you informed!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by mcalva
Then I'll start checking electric conections, the leveling arm and leaking.
The main problem, I think, will be to achieve space to work on it and see what is happening.
If at the end I need change the compressor I'll go for the VIAIR and I'll do the replace when
I change the rear tyre.
Thanks a lot everyone for your help once more again.
I'll keep you informed!
My 2012 RT Limited was bottoming out every time I hit a bump, and my Dash light would not go off. Also, my horn would not blow. I suspected the Air Bag was leaking, so took it to my Dealer to check. They did all the normal leak testing, and determined my Air Bag was NOT leaking, and put it back together, and charged me $100 and sent me home. The next day, it still bottomed out, and my Dash light came on and horn wouldn’t blow. I took it back to the Dealer, and they kept it for a week, then informed me, my Air Bag WAS leaking, and my Compressor was bad. The Estimate, to repair, for Parts & Labor was $1300.00! I was NOT a Happy Camper. MY Spyder had 55,400 miles on it, at that time, and It also was ready for another set of new tires, and the Valves had never been adjusted. But I had just spent $1100.00 on it, with a Laser Allignment, Oil and filter service, plus a new Battery, and Brake Pads and fluid flush! So, another $1300 for a Spyder with that mileage was not making me happy, altho it WAS still running real good, long story short, I negociated a Deal with the Dealer, that they keep my 2012 as is, for a Trade against a new 2016 RT Limited left over sitting on their Show Room floor. ( that was in April 2017) its now Thanksgiving Day, 2017, and I have 13,000 miles on my 2016 RT Limited. ( Dealer detailed, serviced, and put new tires on my 2012, and sold it in a month for $5 Grand more than they allowed me on Trade! But, I didn’t think I would ever be able to sell my 2012 on my own, and did not want to put any more money in to it. ) I love the 2016. It is superior in lots of ways over the 2012. Gas mileage is much better, more power, lower RPMs, floor boards, fantasitic way the front fender guards keep the water off my feet and legs with the new set up. The 6 speed Trannny and different way the Clutch engages is also a Joy, and very noticeable as compared to the 2012. I had a Laser Allignment done, and front wheels spun balanced, before I took possession of my 2016, in my negociations with the Dealer, and I still have not changed out my real Kendra tire, which still has quite a bit of out side thread left, but I plan to change it soon. The front tires are still looking great, and are still in balence. I had Belt Chatter right away, and bought and intalled Doc’s Belt Dampener. The spring broke and Doc replaced it under Waurentee, and its still OK. My Dealer had a 2017 RT S on the floor when I bought my 2016, which I could have bought for the same price. But I wanted the RT Limited, because I did not want to sacrifice my Garman GPS, Radio, Sliding Wind Screen, Chrome wheels, etc. so my 2016 was the best choice for me. I ride all year, as long as tne Temp. is above 45 Degrees F. And it is not raining or snowing.
Last edited by 007james; 11-23-2017 at 06:48 AM.
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Active Member
I continue having the problem.
I wonder if I could eliminate the whole rear shock system (compressor, shock absorber, air tank, level lever) and replace it with a good "all in one" shock and avoid a lot of problematic items at once.
Should modifications be made to "the nanny" to eliminate the level sensor?
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Look at the air bag protector from Roadster Renovations. Doc ran into this problem a while ago and put together a kit to help prevent it happening again.
https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Pump-Replaced
Last edited by Spyder 42; 05-05-2018 at 01:24 PM.
"If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning." Catherine Aird
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Active Member
Hi!
I'm sorry by the delay but at the end I decided to eliminate the ACS system and install a new EMC SportShock 2.
In this way I wanted to eliminate the small problems of the rear suspension system derived from the multitude of components involved.
I've decided it was the best solution.
Thanks everyone for your help.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Ride?
How is the ride quality? Is it adjustable? Might be a great solution to an expensive problem!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by R FUN
Does your horn work as the compressor is on the same fuse. Do all the other checks as advised but I would think your compessor packed it in as hundreds of others have, a common problem as mine has and my friends both on 2012 RT Limited. If it is, a cheap way and simplest is bypass the compressor and run an air line from the shrade valve to the air bag and manually adjust the pressure to your liking. Or have the air compressor replaced with an OEM compressor for $500.00 Plus just to fail again. Good Luck.
Roger
I like the Vertika Floor boards you have ,nice bike ,never seen one like that .
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Active Member
Originally Posted by cptjam
How is the ride quality? Is it adjustable? Might be a great solution to an expensive problem!
I can't say at the moment if the ride quality is better, equal or worse than the original system at the 100% but in my case is much better cause I have now allways the same answer from the rear shock. The shock is the EMC SportShock 2 for Can Am - modèle 998 Spyder RT - Rear - year 2009 - 2012.
I've ordered in France cause the ussines is 700 km from home (Barcelona, Spain) , near Lyon (France), but you have the EMC in Florida too.
Yes it is adjustable.
"The SportShock 2 BLACK is a tri-tube damper with low pressure gas volume compensator easy to adjust.With 26 clicks, it has a wide range of use to satisfy all tastes.
One wheel adjusts comfort (high-speed movements) and the other wheel adjusts the grip and sportiness (low-speed movements).
Unlike an emulsion damper, the SportShock2 keeps a suspension of consistent quality and a good ground connection despite a bad road network or a rise in temperature.
The springs are chosen by EMC according to the general state of charge indicated by the customer."
https://www.emc-suspensions.fr/64574...e-sportive.jpg
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Very Active Member
mcalva, When you eliminated the ACS system, did you have the air valve, compressor and air bag removed entirely or just change the stock shock out to the new shock?
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
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Active Member
Originally Posted by DGoebel
mcalva, When you eliminated the ACS system, did you have the air valve, compressor and air bag removed entirely or just change the stock shock out to the new shock?
Hi.
I went to the official service to unchek the Nanny ACS option. Now the button from dashboard doesn't go, neither the level lever nor compressor, (although the compressor no longer worked), completely deflate the suspension's balloon and assembled the new shock absorber.
At the momment I have all the ACS system mounted as "backup" but if everything goes ok, after a time I will disassembly all the stuff
to remove the clutter and leave the installation completely clean.
I'm using the BRP information to mount the part number ROADSTER KIT - ACS rear suspension (In my case to dismount) ;-)
Part number (SKU): 219 400 323
Product: Touring car
Project No: rsi2011-045_rev1
Instruction Sheet P / N: 487801515
Review number: 1
Date of revision: April 25, 2013
Covered item: ACS rear suspension
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I think the rear suspension system of my 2011 RT ltd does not work
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