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I can tell you there is NO warning when the pads wear to the metal!
A local guy here did that and damaged his rotors. He got no warning.
Bob
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Very Active Member
When the pads on my car are low there are little metal tell tales that make a rubbing noise when my pads are low. They do no damage to the rotors just tell me to check my brakes. Does the Spyder not have some warning system like this?
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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No it does not. I know what your talking about too and at least my 2011 RTS does not.
Bob
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Bleeding
I read or heard that if the brakes are bleed, the bike needs to be hooked up to BUDS, is this true?
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Very Active Member
Thanks Bob,so now I will add that to my visual inspection list.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by sliderrj
I read or heard that if the brakes are bleed, the bike needs to be hooked up to BUDS, is this true?
No. Just don't turn on the key while you're doing it. It would be best to have the key in the house, do your bleed and then when you're done, turn it on and go.
2020 RTL SE6
Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6
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Originally Posted by patches
Agree, it is very easy. PM me your email address and I can give you exactly what the manual states to do. Once I started, I didn't even look at it.
The kits come with everything you need and the bolts already have locktight on them for the rear...the fronts will need them as well. It is best to have a torque wrench if you don't know how to feel it out.
Im also looking for instructions as well slurpeegirl32@gmail.com
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Flamewinger
No using C clamp. I tried but piston wouldn't budge and I didn't want to force it. The lever is supposed to pull the piston back in. But the dealer says they use needle nose pliers to "screw" the piston back in as that is part of the parking brake feature.
Loosen the brake fluid bleeder valve to allow an ounce or less brake fluid out of the caliper--of course you'll need to add same amount of Brake fluid #4 back into the brake reservoir when the pad replacement job is complete.
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
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Originally Posted by yamahog
For the rear brake caliper manual says to discard bolts when removing, any idea what size and type bolts, can i get them at hardware or dealer only?
They state this because they are included in the dealer's brake kit. I reused my original ones with my own blue thread locker.
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Originally Posted by Wildrice
Loosen the brake fluid bleeder valve to allow an ounce or less brake fluid out of the caliper--of course you'll need to add same amount of Brake fluid #4 back into the brake reservoir when the pad replacement job is complete.
I made a tool to screw the caliper back in. BajaRon has it now. Automotive tools are too big.
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Brake Failure Warning
My Brake Failure warning was due to a lodged/stuck brake fluid level float. I merely carefully reached into each brake master cylinder with a spring hook and made sure each float was free. Problem solved.
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Rear brake caliper won't open.
Hey guys, changed my rear wheel, every thing looked good up to trying to put brake caliper back on.
Can't get the pad to decompress wide enough. Read on this thread it was pretty much the same as changing car pads.
Well with my cars, I can take a C clamp and press them back in. Don't work here, any tricks I am missing.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Boaz
Hey guys, changed my rear wheel, every thing looked good up to trying to put brake caliper back on.
Can't get the pad to decompress wide enough. Read on this thread it was pretty much the same as changing car pads.
Well with my cars, I can take a C clamp and press them back in. Don't work here, any tricks I am missing.
If you have a '13 & newer with the Brembo caliper there are two holes on one piston that u will have to use a tool to rotate & screw it in clockwise according to instructions came with my pads from Bajaron Here is a copy:
Spyder rear caliber : instructions from BajaRon
"Rear pad install
The rear caliper also serves as the parking brake the rear piston needs to be retracted as the fronts with a C-clamp.however, it is likely that it will not retract far enough to complete the install. You will see 2 holes in the top of this piston for inserting a tool. The rear piston must be turned CLOCKWISE to retract the parking brake system. It is best to clean the rubber piston boot before this step it may take a good deal of force to start the piston turning but should get easier once the piston begins to turn. Turn the piston until it bottoms out."
Last edited by Bfromla; 06-04-2017 at 04:04 PM.
Reason: Instructions
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
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Active Member
Rear caliper
Originally Posted by Flamewinger
I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.
Help
Thanks
On rear calI per the piston has to be screwed in not pushed in I just did rear pads on mine
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Brembo piston compression
Originally Posted by Flamewinger
I've got the rear caliper off and the parking brake cable removed. I am unable to get the piston back in for the new pads. It won't budge. The manual says to rotate lever to pull piston back in but it's seems stuck.
Help
Thanks
i had the same problem and found that none of the automotive brake tools were small enough so I made one. BajaRon is developing a tool to turn the piston but without the compression feature.
IMG_2440.jpg
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Very Active Member
I just did friends and used an adjustable grinder wrench, it opened big enough and worked great.
2017 RT-S
Bump Skid - Spyderpops
Wrap - Wrapmyspyder
swaybar - Bajaron
Sena 20D & SM10
3 PC Mesh Zippered Lid Net Set - TricLED
A arm LED's - Safety LED's - TricLED
Mirror Sequential turn signals
Glo-riders
LED rear turn signals and reverse lights
Front Grills
Third Brake light
Larson Scanner
Light Up - Sue Hopper
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NEVER ADD FLUID TO BRAKES!!!
Originally Posted by spyderbitten
I too was getting the "Brake Failure" message with 15,000 miles. Checked brake fluid and one reservoir was a little low. Topped it off and all is well. That was 3 weeks ago. I doubt you need new pads, check the fluid levels first.
Mike
Never add fluid to your reservoir as the pads ware down the fluid goes down.. Put new pads on the fluid goes up!!
Only add fluid when you flush the system and put new fluid in...
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Itadsup
Never add fluid to your reservoir as the pads ware down the fluid goes down.. Put new pads on the fluid goes up!!
Only add fluid when you flush the system and put new fluid in...
I’m no brake expert, Itadsup, and this has not happened to me, but there are a number of threads on this where nanny kicks up a brake warning if the fluid level drops a little. Adding a spoonful of fluid clears the warning. That’s why you’ll find the advice to add a little fluid.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Active Member
Originally Posted by rkteck
I took my Spyder in yesterday because I am getting a "Brake failure warning". The dealer called me today and said I need new brake pads and that is the cause of the warning. I only have 9,300 miles on it and don't even use the brakes in most cases. I have the feeling they are just trying to sell something rather than figure out the real problem.
They also told me that most pads only last 8,000-11,000 miles. Anyone else replace brakes before hitting 10k?
I have 36,000 miles on a 2008 Spyder. Yes they are the originals. I have not changed them out since they are within spec. They do not squeal. I think you need a better dealer or there is something seriously wrong with your bike.
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