2013 Stabilizer Bar Link Rods (FYI)

**Lamonster** · 07-17-2013, 12:53 PM

If you have a 2013 Spyder and you want to check your links to see if they are part of the bad batch here's the info.

**SpyderAnn01** · 07-17-2013, 12:56 PM

Thanks. Is this a service bulletin?

**Chupaca** · 07-17-2013, 01:57 PM

thanks for keeping us ahead of the curve...

**billybovine** · 07-17-2013, 02:48 PM

Thanks for the info Lamont.

Now I have to lay on the concrete floor and look at those links again. I just did that yesterday.

**Huddleston** · 07-17-2013, 03:02 PM

I just received from BRP a link with CCV1 3, which I had ordered so that I would have a spare for my 2013 RTS SE5. Based upon your information, this would not need to be replaced. However, both of the swivels were stuck so hard that I could not move them with my hand. I had to use a screw driver to break them loose. After oiling them I can now move them with my hand. Did BRP indicate what was wrong with the earlier links? Am I wrong in thinking they should move freely with my hand?

**Mike,P** · 07-17-2013, 03:10 PM

Thx Lamont

**BajaRon** · 07-17-2013, 03:34 PM

Originally Posted by Huddleston

I just received from BRP a link with CCV1 3, which I had ordered so that I would have a spare for my 2013 RTS SE5. Based upon your information, this would not need to be replaced. However, both of the swivels were stuck so hard that I could not move them with my hand. I had to use a screw driver to break them loose. After oiling them I can now move them with my hand. Did BRP indicate what was wrong with the earlier links? Am I wrong in thinking they should move freely with my hand?

Not speaking for Lamont, but the OEM links have very tight Heim joints. Probably because they are a composite plastic and they need to be tighter than typical metal to metal or metal to nylon Heim joints. If you can move them reasonably easily with a bolt or screwdriver through the hole I wouldn't worry about it.

However, over time these joints can get pretty loose (could be wear, could be fatigue of the composite plastic). I pulled the OEM links off my 2008 GS (32,000+ miles) and the balls were loose to the point that there may be some slop in the ball and socket when under stress.

**Huddleston** · 07-17-2013, 04:49 PM

Originally Posted by BajaRon

Not speaking for Lamont, but the OEM links have very tight Heim joints. Probably because they are a composite plastic and they need to be tighter than typical metal to metal or metal to nylon Heim joints. If you can move them reasonably easily with a bolt or screwdriver through the hole I wouldn't worry about it.

However, over time these joints can get pretty loose (could be wear, could be fatigue of the composite plastic). I pulled the OEM links off my 2008 GS (32,000+ miles) and the balls were loose to the point that there may be some slop in the ball and socket when under stress.

Thanks for the info.

**kubie** · 07-17-2013, 06:01 PM

THANKS SIR.

**Bob Ledford** · 07-17-2013, 06:25 PM

See Lamont relieved everyone's mind again. I feel good about my SWAG being on target too. I got lucky!

Now we can sit back and wonder what will the next crisis be? When will it strike?

**03hdjill** · 07-17-2013, 08:04 PM

Originally Posted by Lamonster

If you have a 2013 Spyder and you want to check your links to see if they are part of the bad batch here's the info.

Is there an easy way to check these?

**Magdave** · 07-17-2013, 10:05 PM

Just curious where did you get this info from Lamont before I school my service dept (again).

**03hdjill** · 07-18-2013, 07:51 AM

Originally Posted by Magdave

Just curious where did you get this info from Lamont before I school my service dept (again).

Can someone please tell me how to check this? I do not know what panels would need to come off to see this part. Thank you! Jill

**SpyRyd** · 07-18-2013, 07:56 AM

Originally Posted by 03hdjill

Can someone please tell me how to check this? I do not know what panels would need to come off to see this part. Thank you! Jill

No panels need to be removed but you will need to raise your Spyder's front end and crawl under it to see the links. Search for other posts on this subject and there should be some posts with pictures that show the location of the sway bar links.

**BajaRon** · 07-18-2013, 08:01 AM

Originally Posted by 03hdjill

Is there an easy way to check these?

Sure, just look at your links. They can be seen from under the Spyder. Find the sway bar end and the link will be bolted to it (hopefully ). The sway bar assembly is located between the front wheels.
Your sway bar will be black, not brown like this one. (Where did he get this sway bar anyway?

) But I digress.

Once you find the link then you may need a flashlight to get a good look at the black on black lettering. Worse case senerio is that you'll have to remove the link to look at it. This is pretty easily done but you should be able to see the numbers without removing the links.

If you don't have a 2013 then you don't have a problem (unless you've replaced a link recently).

**BajaRon** · 07-18-2013, 08:02 AM

Originally Posted by Magdave

Just curious where did you get this info from Lamont before I school my service dept (again).

From the big boys at BRP. You can take this info to the bank....

**Magdave** · 07-18-2013, 08:42 AM

Thanks Ron had to tell them the p0127,p0217 stories since BRP hasn't put that info out to the dealers and I just wanted to make sure. It is what I thought though.

**quickster47** · 07-18-2013, 10:14 AM

Yet another piece of information to in our Spyder arsenal.

Carl

**FaranH** · 07-18-2013, 12:08 PM

Thanks! Posted this on Girls on Spyders (with clear instructions not to ask me any questions, but come straight here for the answers

). I love it when we can provide valuable, up-to-the-minute information for our riders!

**Magdave** · 07-18-2013, 02:12 PM

This is a recall on some models according to BRP the bulletin number is 2013-06 I just talked with them and mine is included

. They say it is stabilizer link inspection. Don't know if that means just inspect or replace but I assume the above information will be the determining factor.

Just checked the one I could see "4" with no white dot dam replace.....

**MouthPiece** · 08-01-2013, 10:36 AM

Had mine replaced today. Took about 15 minutes and no charge. I was on my way in no time.

Chris PS: Edit: [It wouldn't be a bad idea to call your service department first and making sure they have the part before running down there to change out.]

PSS: Your dealer will know your Vin# and can find out via their computer whether you need this change or not.

**flamingobabe** · 08-16-2013, 12:22 PM

My links are different...one is a 4 with no orange dot...replace and the other is a 2 with no orange dot...do not replace.....I'll replace both thru Baja Ron resize1.jpg resize2.jpg

**Cruzr Joe** · 08-16-2013, 01:46 PM

Oh no, now i am in trouble again ........................... one of mine had a 3 and one had a 2, i replaced both of them with the metal ones from Baja Ron ................. (the note says do not replace)

. How much trouble am I in?????

Cruzr Joe

**flamingobabe** · 08-16-2013, 02:03 PM

you-need-a-spanking-postcard.jpg

Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe

Oh no, now i am in trouble again ........................... one of mine had a 3 and one had a 2, i replaced both of them with the metal ones from Baja Ron ................. (the note says do not replace)

. How much trouble am I in?????

Cruzr Joe

**Cruzr Joe** · 08-16-2013, 02:12 PM

Originally Posted by flamingobabe

you-need-a-spanking-postcard.jpg

OUCH, that happened to me when i took the tag off the pillow.

Cruzr Joe

Thread: 2013 Stabilizer Bar Link Rods (FYI)

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2013 Stabilizer Bar Link Rods (FYI)

Good to know..!!

Not agian.

La monster comes through again

need help

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