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Squirrelly Handling on 2013 RT Limited
I have had my 2013 Spyder RT Ltd. for 2 days now and am beginning to wonder if there is something amiss in the steering geometry adjustment- namely toe in. First off I am not a new rider to much of any cycle. Only new to Spyders. Over 50 years on the saddles of 2 wheelers, trikes, side car machines, ATVs etc. My RT seems to be hunting around the road for a place to go. In gusty winds it has an annoying wobble, on straight road it zigs here and zags there, not much mind you but enough to bug me. On a curve it is worse. And no, I am not over driving it or over correcting it. For sure I would not let go of the handle bars. Nice riding machine other than the annoying directional control. I will do a complete steering inspection and toe in check. Any ideas or similar experiences?
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Originally Posted by scooterguy
I have had my 2013 Spyder RT Ltd. for 2 days now and am beginning to wonder if there is something amiss in the steering geometry adjustment- namely toe in. First off I am not a new rider to much of any cycle. Only new to Spyders. Over 50 years on the saddles of 2 wheelers, trikes, side car machines, ATVs etc. My RT seems to be hunting around the road for a place to go. In gusty winds it has an annoying wobble, on straight road it zigs here and zags there, not much mind you but enough to bug me. On a curve it is worse. And no, I am not over driving it or over correcting it. For sure I would not let go of the handle bars. Nice riding machine other than the annoying directional control. I will do a complete steering inspection and toe in check. Any ideas or similar experiences?
Check your Air Pressure in tires. you will be amazed what a PSI or 2 will do to the handling & tracking
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Very Active Member
You will need to relearn to ride a spyder. Trust me. In fact motorcycler riders have a harder time relearning.
Maybe read this little story of my first test drive:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...st-impressions
Bob
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Have your dealer check the VIN to see if the ball joints need to be replaced. A death grip can also cause problems. I only have had mine for about 5 weeks ago.
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Once u have checked the vin# and ball joints check the alignment 2013 specks also the Ron sway bar would make a huge difference in the handling many spyders owners now have them the handling is like night and day good luck.
Mike
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Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
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Very Active Member
a possible solution you can do on your own.
Of course, I"m not sure what the problem is but the first thing you may want to try, (something that you can do yourself ) is to lessen your hold on those handlebars. This ride should track straight down the road. Minimal steering required. Again, that is what quickly comes to mind. Best of luck and hopefully the problem can be diagnosed quickly.
Previous owner of a 2008 Spyder SM5.
Current owner of a 2007 Yamaha Royal Star Venture
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Originally Posted by COOLMACHINE
Of course, I"m not sure what the problem is but the first thing you may want to try, (something that you can do yourself ) is to lessen your hold on those handlebars. This ride should track straight down the road. Minimal steering required. Again, that is what quickly comes to mind. Best of luck and hopefully the problem can be diagnosed quickly.
Thank you. There you have it. Relax the grip on the bars to the point of no pressure (kind of have my fingers close to the grips) and the machine will promptly wander right or left and usually more right due to the crown of our 2 land roads.
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Originally Posted by scooterguy
Thank you. There you have it. Relax the grip on the bars to the point of no pressure (kind of have my fingers close to the grips) and the machine will promptly wander right or left and usually more right due to the crown of our 2 land roads.
You are not alone and you are not oversteering. I have the same problem and I have nearly 70,000 miles on Spyders. The shocks are being replaced on mine on the 11th of July and I will let everyone know what that does to the wobble.
By the way your experiences and descriptions are exactly what I am experiencing with my 2013. I have BajaRon's swaybar and it makes the bike handle much better in the curves but has not helped the wandering/wobbling issues. Unlike on the 2010 where the BajaRon bar made a night and day difference in the handling.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Member
Handling
I am having the same experience with my 2013 rt limited and don't let anyone talk you into the its you diagnosis. I just switched spiders with my friend who is driving a 2012 rt he drove about three miles pulled over and said to me there is something not right which was really a superfluous statement because I just got off his 2012 and it drove like a dream,straight no wondering or darting,the way I expected the 13 to be. Can am must step up to the plate here not the dealers . There is something not right with some of their 13 and they must find out what's wrong before someone gets hurt.
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Motorbike Professor
Wandering, following road surface variations, and darting around are usually signs of insufficient toe-in. An alignment, following the 2013 procedures and specs (toward the tight side) and using the tools developed for that job, can improve things in most cases. There can be other factors. Faulty or tight steering components, such as the batch of bad ball joints, could enter into it. Tire pressures matter...16-18 up front seems to be best with the 2013s. Finally, despite thinking you are not overcontrolling...you probably are. We all did so at first...maybe for 1,000 miles or more. On a bike you normally react to a gust of wind, and automatically compensate. It is hard to let the wind move your upper body around and not move your arms at all. The slightest steering input moves a Spyder around. Bumps are similar, any motion transmitted to the handlebars results in a reaction. The Spyder has no gyroscopic stability like a 2-wheeler, so it tends to move around more than you are used to. Steering sensor calibration can enter into things, too...which is a real possibility if there is a tendency to continuously pull to one side.
My advice...have the front end carefully aligned and inspected by a competent shop, check your tire pressures, have your steering sensor calibation checked on BUDS, make a conscious effort to loosen your grip and not react to road and wind variations. Have an experienced Spyder rider try your Spyder, ride another Spyder yourself if you can (2012 or earlier or a dealer demo). That should tell you whether yours is significantly different. I hope you find the answer to your difficulties soon.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Wandering, following road surface variations, and darting around are usually signs of insufficient toe-in. An alignment, following the 2013 procedures and specs (toward the tight side) and using the tools developed for that job, can improve things in most cases. There can be other factors. Faulty or tight steering components, such as the batch of bad ball joints, could enter into it. Tire pressures matter...16-18 up front seems to be best with the 2013s. Finally, despite thinking you are not overcontrolling...you probably are. We all did so at first...maybe for 1,000 miles or more. On a bike you normally react to a gust of wind, and automatically compensate. It is hard to let the wind move your upper body around and not move your arms at all. The slightest steering input moves a Spyder around. Bumps are similar, any motion transmitted to the handlebars results in a reaction. The Spyder has no gyroscopic stability like a 2-wheeler, so it tends to move around more than you are used to. Steering sensor calibration can enter into things, too...which is a real possibility if there is a tendency to continuously pull to one side.
My advice...have the front end carefully aligned and inspected by a competent shop, check your tire pressures, have your steering sensor calibation checked on BUDS, make a conscious effort to loosen your grip and not react to road and wind variations. Have an experienced Spyder rider try your Spyder, ride another Spyder yourself if you can (2012 or earlier or a dealer demo). That should tell you whether yours is significantly different. I hope you find the answer to your difficulties soon.
You have brought up a good point about riding another Spyder. I rode a 2013 ST Limited during a BRP factory demo event. The ride was over several miles of varying traffic and road conditions. My wife was passenger. After the initial bout of overcontrolling on the first couple of curves I had no difficulties what so ever. It was a sweet ride. My RT Limited is way different.
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My 2013 RT LTD was darting all over the place, they found that the steering colum was bad, the upper steering knuckle had a 1/4 inch of play, it was changed and was a lot better. I brought the air in the front tires up to 20 lb that helped also. It still doesent go down the road as will as the 2010 RTS that I traded in did, but it is much better now then when I got it. Hope this helps.
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Very Active Member
Good advice given by all..... and I would certainly have the front end checked out... but I'd also add the beefier swaybar from Baja Ron.........that will help keep you on track.
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Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Very Active Member
I have no experience on the 2013 models, but my 2012 did the same thing before I tightened the shocks all the way to the max. Then it was OK. Since then I have added the new sway bar and Elka shocks. Now it's a dream ride.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DR Buck
I have no experience on the 2013 models, but my 2012 did the same thing before I tightened the shocks all the way to the max. Then it was OK. Since then I have added the new sway bar and Elka shocks. Now it's a dream ride.
2013 shocks not adjustable.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Firefly
2013 shocks not adjustable.
Ah!!!! And there in may lie an issue me thinks....
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Very Active Member
Scotty is right on with the advice.
Prior to 2013, the issues of oversteering, overcontrol, low tire pressure, shock adjustments, etc. were usually the answers for about 90% of the problems mentioned.
When I came over from two wheels to in 2008, I had to unlearn 40 years of two-wheeling. I was not really comfortable until I had put about 1000 miles on.
The 2013's opened up a whole new scenario. Many experienced owners encountered the issues you are talking about. Turns out, they had ball joint issues on many. They went through a period of re-alignment issues also. It is now recommended that a competent dealer get your machine set up properly so that the handling issues are corrected. IMO: the may not have been prepped properly before sending you out on the road. SOME dealers like to bolt em together, check off the list, and send em down the road. This can result is a that does not handle well.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 06-29-2013 at 04:11 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Squirrelly RT Hope not a repeat..
Originally Posted by happyspyder2039
Check your Air Pressure in tires. you will be amazed what a PSI or 2 will do to the handling & tracking
I checked the tire pressure and found 23-24 psi in the front tires. Never checked pressure as machine was direct from dealer. I reduced the pressure to 16 psi in accordance with the book limits. We did a 80 mile trip today and handling was much improved! I do feel there is a real need for a better anti sway or roll bar. I am not happy with the roll right or left on cornering. Now which sway bar to buy?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by scooterguy
I checked the tire pressure and found 23-24 psi in the front tires. Never checked pressure as machine was direct from dealer. I reduced the pressure to 16 psi in accordance with the book limits. We did a 80 mile trip today and handling was much improved! I do feel there is a real need for a better anti sway or roll bar. I am not happy with the roll right or left on cornering. Now which sway bar to buy?
Baja Ron's. just do it.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Originally Posted by scooterguy
I have had my 2013 Spyder RT Ltd. for 2 days now and am beginning to wonder if there is something amiss in the steering geometry adjustment- namely toe in. First off I am not a new rider to much of any cycle. Only new to Spyders. Over 50 years on the saddles of 2 wheelers, trikes, side car machines, ATVs etc. My RT seems to be hunting around the road for a place to go. In gusty winds it has an annoying wobble, on straight road it zigs here and zags there, not much mind you but enough to bug me. On a curve it is worse. And no, I am not over driving it or over correcting it. For sure I would not let go of the handle bars. Nice riding machine other than the annoying directional control. I will do a complete steering inspection and toe in check. Any ideas or similar experiences?
Yes, my 2013 limited is approaching 600 miles and can't wait to get back to the dealer. Traded in my 2010 RTS and it was much more stable than this one. Not sure if it's ball joints, alignment, or what. It is as squirrely as yours and I never rode 2 wheels, so no relearning curve here.
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Banged Up Member
Originally Posted by LadyDi'sSpyder
Yes, my 2013 limited is approaching 600 miles and can't wait to get back to the dealer. Traded in my 2010 RTS and it was much more stable than this one. Not sure if it's ball joints, alignment, or what. It is as squirrely as yours and I never rode 2 wheels, so no relearning curve here.
Need the Rolo alignment.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by scooterguy
I checked the tire pressure and found 23-24 psi in the front tires. Never checked pressure as machine was direct from dealer. I reduced the pressure to 16 psi in accordance with the book limits. We did a 80 mile trip today and handling was much improved! I do feel there is a real need for a better anti sway or roll bar. I am not happy with the roll right or left on cornering. Now which sway bar to buy?
Here is a link to Baja Ron sway bar:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...rs-amp-Helmets
It seemed to help a lot of 2013 rt's
2012 RT-S SE5 with Web Boards, custom graphics and battery tender leads
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Active Member
OUTLAW/ ROLO LASER ALIGN System
Originally Posted by MouthPiece
Need the Rolo alignment.
I agree.. http://www.spydercomfort.com/alignment.htm
check it out
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