Oil Change - Worries.

[Many brands]

About to do my first oil change. There are quite a few threds, about "Stuck Bolts" "Stripping out the bolds." "Easy outs" Vice Grips" etc.
Making me worry, is this really a big enough thing, to "WORRY" about ??

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

About to do my first oil change. There are quite a few threds, about "Stuck Bolts" "Stripping out the bolds." "Easy outs" Vice Grips" etc.
Making me worry, is this really a big enough thing, to "WORRY" about ??

No ... I highly recommend using Torx and Hex sockets .... Whenever I'm using a tool UPSIDE down ( from normal ) I set the tool to either re-move or tighten - BEFORE I put the tool on the Head of the bolt ( or nut )....this absolutely guarantee's you won't turn it the Wrong way......and as far as torqueing Oil drain bolts I tap the Ratchet TIGHT( a hand tap -not a hammer tap ), if it happens to leak a drop or two Tap it again and it should stop ....Think about getting a GOLD plug to swap out the TORX bolt ..... PS - always give a solid tap ( w/ a hammer ) to the socket in the bolt head - this should break the Hard Varnish seal that occurs with oily threads and Heat ..........good luck, it's not rocket science , you can be successful the first time around ...... Mike

[Peter Aawen]

All Good Advice! And beyond that, just set yourself up to do it RIGHT while you are the right way up, ignore even the possibility of getting it wrong & do it the way you KNOW you can!! No need to buy problems by worrying before anything goes pear shaped, convince yourself you are up to the task, and do it!

Then tell us how well it all went when you are finished. We know you can, you've got all the info you need to do it right, so just get on with it!

[youngers]

if you are working on the r-t models , the Tupperware removal , and replace is the hardest part ... ( the oil reservoir plug is pretty tight on mine , just take your time and remember ---upside down , bolts come off clockwise ---)

[quasi]

About to do my first oil change. There are quite a few threds, about "Stuck Bolts" "Stripping out the bolds." "Easy outs" Vice Grips" etc.
Making me worry, is this really a big enough thing, to "WORRY" about ??

your stock drain plugs use an allen (hex) head not a torx. do not confuse the 2. lefty loosy, righty tighty.

[BoilerAnimal]

your stock drain plugs use an allen (hex) head not a torx. do not confuse the 2. lefty loosy, righty tighty.

Also, they are relatively deep compared to most allen fittings, so make sure that you have them seated fully. I've never had any trouble with mine, but like you, I was worried after all of the things I read about on here.

Take your time, make sure you have your ratchet set in the right direction when loosening them and all should be fine. If you have a torque wrench, do not use it for anything except tightening bolts to the proper torque and always store it at the lowest setting when not being used. I use mine to tighten the plugs and bolts for the filters and I always set it to a little lower than the amount called for in the owners manual. You can always tighten it a little more if needed.

[ofdave]

On the 1330 engine, there are two drain plugs one uses an allen head and the other a torx head.
They are not the same.
There are several youtube videos to watch that will take you through the process. There's a good one by Lamonster.
Take your time, you can do this.

[trikermutha]

If memory serves me correctly a 6MM allen and T45 torx is what you will need. Now this is what I use on my 2014 RT.

One for the trans and one for the engine drain plugs.

One is on the left the other on the right side of the bike.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

your stock drain plugs use an allen (hex) head not a torx. do not confuse the 2. lefty loosy, righty tighty.

The OP didn't STATE the year of His Spyder ( nor model ) but His pic looks like a 2014 or above ..... The 1330 engine Uses a T 45 - TORX on the Engine oil plug ....the other one is #6 HEX ..... this is a FACT - I own one and do my own maintenance ............. Mike

[quasi]

The OP didn't STATE the year of His Spyder ( nor model ) but His pic looks like a 2014 or above ..... The 1330 engine Uses a T 45 - TORX on the Engine oil plug ....the other one is #6 HEX ..... this is a FACT - I own one and do my own maintenance ............. Mike

well, I didn't dig into his profile to see what model bike he has so I just stated what I have experience with. guess I gave bad instructions once again.

[UtahPete]

About to do my first oil change. There are quite a few threds, about "Stuck Bolts" "Stripping out the bolds." "Easy outs" Vice Grips" etc. Making me worry, is this really a big enough thing, to "WORRY" about ??

Not unless the previous oil changes were done by someone with the wrong tools or method.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

well, I didn't dig into his profile to see what model bike he has so I just stated what I have experience with. guess I gave bad instructions once again.

I wasn't scolding you ..... I really hate it when you/me/anyone have to go digging for Important info so the answer you give is pertinent to the bike in question ...... hopefully we/they/me will learn this .........Mike

[bmccaffrey]

T40 for plugs' I pit on the bolt and tap with hammer pops right out. Filter i use torque wrench on bolts for canister 100 inch pounds . Good to go

[CapnPete]

The manual is adamant about discarding the old O rings and using new ones. I have cheated on this with other applications in the past with no problems, do you replace as instructed? I assume Can Am has a kit?

Thanks for all advice.

Cap'n Pete
2107 F3-T

[trikermutha]

I have reused my Orings over many times now. Baja Ron sells a aftermarket O ring kit too or get the pricy BRP ones from the stealer.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

T40 for plugs' I pit on the bolt and tap with hammer pops right out. Filter i use torque wrench on bolts for canister 100 inch pounds . Good to go

If you are using a T 40 instead of a T-45, eventually the plug head is going to strip ....... It's a T 45 Bolt ...... The hammer thing should be a STICKY ..... Mike

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have reused my Orings over many times now. Baja Ron sells a aftermarket O ring kit too or get the pricy BRP ones from the stealer.

.....6 oil changes & I'm still using the OEM rubber rings ......The absolutely worst thing that can happen is a very very slight oil leak at the plug .....sooooooooo you change the O rings at next oil change..... I now have dozens of O rings in a box .............. Mike

[Woodaddict]

just did my oil change, if spyder is lifted and level, the T45 when pushed in all the way is NOT 90 degrees to level or main frame. it has a slight tilt toward rear end. that's just the way engine case is and threads machined. looking over many oil change posts, no one mentioned this. maybe this might have contributed to some stripped bolts. I was going to get gold plugs, but waited to do my first oil change, now I don't think I need them.

12,800 miles, now and must have been 3rd time oil was changed, last by me. (bought used) 224 miles on it last year