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You SHOULD get a Battery Tender

kinggeek

kinggeek

New member
OK, Nobody say WE told you so but today I experienced why every spyderowner should listen to the people in these forums and get a Battery Tender.:bowdown:

I had a VERY BUSY two weeks and was not able to ride so today I decided to take the Spyder to lunch. Pulled out of the driveway drove 1.5 miles to get gas and filled up. Went to start the Spyder and nothing but click, click, click, and off. :mad: Flashing dash lights, the whole shebang.:mad:

At first I thought my throttle body locked shut and blew a fuse again but a quick call to Middletown Cycle and they said jump the battery as that is most likely the issue.

Had to get a jump from a passerby that thought the Spyder was pretty cool.
:yes:Luckily it worked.:yes:


I IMMEDIATELY rode to the nearest cycle shop, left the Spyder running while I went inside and bought a Battery Tender Junior for $35.

Will most likely have questions on how/where to install the leads.

From now I will listen to you guys more than my wife on all things Spyder!:D

Thanks fellow Spyderlovers for the advice even though it took a failure for me to listen!
 
I'm sure a battery tender is a great idea but I leave my Spyder for weeks sometimes and never have a problem. I wonder why others don't seem to be able to do this.
 
You have a ghost riding in your absence.. Anyone up the hill might be borrowing and riding without your knowledge.. Just a dumb thought.:roflblack: :roflblack:
 
BATTERY TENDER

When i first got the :ani29: I screwed up and went somewhere stopped for awhile.. When i returned it wouldn't start jumping wasn't an option....so I did something I would never try with my Gold Wing I ran with the spyder and jump started it that way ( flat asphalt parking lot ) YEA SPYDER Mike:thumbup:
 
suspicious

How old is the battery ??
  1. Something else is going on somewhere. If the bike started and then wouldn't start after riding then there's something wrong with the charging system , battery or terminal somewhere. Is the battery old ??? I'm willing to bet that even after putting the battery on the tender it will fail again after riding a bit. You need to check or have someone check the battery voltage while the bike is running to see if it's being charged......I'm betting it isn't. A lot of people seem to think the tender will be a life saver and is the reason their battery isn't going dead on them. If the battery and charging system are both good then installing a tender is a waste of money unless the bike won't be stated for an extended time.....not just days but months and even then if the battery is good it should still hold enough charge to start the bike. That's my opinion and a lot will disagree and if you want to use the tender then have at it. If your battery is fairly new and not holding a charge then you either have a bad battery or bad charging system.
 
exwinger said:
How old is the battery ??
  1. Something else is going on somewhere. If the bike started and then wouldn't start after riding then there's something wrong with the charging system , battery or terminal somewhere. Is the battery old ??? I'm willing to bet that even after putting the battery on the tender it will fail again after riding a bit. You need to check or have someone check the battery voltage while the bike is running to see if it's being charged......I'm betting it isn't. A lot of people seem to think the tender will be a life saver and is the reason their battery isn't going dead on them. If the battery and charging system are both good then installing a tender is a waste of money unless the bike won't be stated for an extended time.....not just days but months and even then if the battery is good it should still hold enough charge to start the bike. That's my opinion and a lot will disagree and if you want to use the tender then have at it. If your battery is fairly new and not holding a charge then you either have a bad battery or bad charging system.
Click to expand...
:agree: The battery could be bad, the battery terminals dirty or loose, or the rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal) loose. Loose or dirty terminals (or a loose ground) will prevent a battery from charging well. Start it once and run down the battery, ride some curves and use more power with the steering, and ride in stop & go traffic or at too low rpm, and the battery suffers more. Stop for a Coke and you end up stranded.

BTW, the Battery Tender can be hooked right to the jumper terminals under the seat with the included alligator clips, so there is no mechanical work required. It can also be plugged into the rear 12V outlet with a cigarette adapter, which is really convenient for me. Hooking up the pigtail to the battery terminals (inside the bodywork, not at the jumper connections) will kill two birds with one stone, though. You can clean and tighten the terminals while you are there.
 
Your battery may have some issues. The purchase of a battery tender is a good investment though. I let my Spyder sit the last two weeks and it started right up when I went to move it into winter parking mode in the garage. I leave the battery tender connected the whole winter parking season. Nov-Feb. I try to ride in March.
 
Me too until this time

BajaRon said:
I'm sure a battery tender is a great idea but I leave my Spyder for weeks sometimes and never have a problem. I wonder why others don't seem to be able to do this.
Click to expand...

Ron,

I have never had an issue either until this time. No idea why it happened now just do not want it to happen again.
 
exwinger said:
How old is the battery ??
  1. Something else is going on somewhere. If the bike started and then wouldn't start after riding then there's something wrong with the charging system , battery or terminal somewhere. Is the battery old ??? I'm willing to bet that even after putting the battery on the tender it will fail again after riding a bit. You need to check or have someone check the battery voltage while the bike is running to see if it's being charged......I'm betting it isn't. A lot of people seem to think the tender will be a life saver and is the reason their battery isn't going dead on them. If the battery and charging system are both good then installing a tender is a waste of money unless the bike won't be stated for an extended time.....not just days but months and even then if the battery is good it should still hold enough charge to start the bike. That's my opinion and a lot will disagree and if you want to use the tender then have at it. If your battery is fairly new and not holding a charge then you either have a bad battery or bad charging system.
Click to expand...

I assume the battery is the same age as the Spyder, purchased January 30 2011, as I said previously no issues before today.

I was told by the dealer when I called for help this is not at all uncommon for the Spyder and that they recommend/sell a Battery Tender Jr. to all Spyder buyers who will listen as standard required equipment.
 
Last edited:
The more electronic devices that are installed on a bike of any type the greater the chance of a slight draw on the battery. A basic RS model just has the five computers and a slight draw. On an RT you start to get more and more electronics so I would recommend a battery tender of a trickle type if you only ride once or twice a month in a cold climate. Keep in mind battery chargers of any type can fail wide open as well as not working at all. A battery can fail due to overcharging as well causing a sulfated condition inside of the cell. The best way to keep any motorcycle and its battery healthy is to ride it, even for a few min. Note that a motorcycle charging system does not charge at idle speeds so just leaving it run in the garage will do nothing but run down the battery by starting it a lot.
 
I like the better contact directly at the battery terminals

I always hook my Battery Tender contacts directly at the battery clamps. They have a lot better contact and heavier wires than most plug in electrical outlets seem to provide. Just a thought, but it seems that any time I short cut an important component repair there eventually is a negative outcome. For items with a lower long term current draw, the outlet would be fine.

It seems that the Tupperware has been off the Spyder often enough for other things that battery access has not been a problem. I also am a believer in using the spray protectant on battery terminals and contacts. Since I started using sealer, I have had no problems on any battery in cars, truck, etc. Currently using Permatex Battery Protector and Sealer, but would think there are many other good products out there. The key seems to be getting all surfaces clean by using baking soda or other good cleaner to get rid of any corrosion before applying the sealer.
 
BajaRon said:
I'm sure a battery tender is a great idea but I leave my Spyder for weeks sometimes and never have a problem. I wonder why others don't seem to be able to do this.
Click to expand...

Perhaps the problems start cropping up when weeks become months; as they do up here during Winter storage...
 
You Should get a Battery Tender

What exactly is a Battery Tender? I have read many threads about them. I am sure it has a major part in keeping the battery charged. But, can a simple battery charger do the same thing?
 
Air Force PAO said:
What exactly is a Battery Tender? I have read many threads about them. I am sure it has a major part in keeping the battery charged. But, can a simple battery charger do the same thing?
Click to expand...

To make it simple, A standard charger will keep on charging a battery till you turn the charger off,
A tender will automatically turn off ,and turn on again if the battery needs to be topped off , With out over charging and ruining the battery like a standard charger will.
 
Battery Tender only works if the battery is good

The Battery Tender only keeps a battery at full charge if the battery is good. A bad battery will quickly lose charge no matter what you use to charge it. If your battery is good(load test it to be sure), then start tracking down the other issues. Short rides in any vehicle may not give the battery time to charge using the on board charging system. Many other issues can cause battery drain and may be simple but hard to find if sporadic. Motorcycle batteries generally do not seem to be designed to last as long as car/truck batteries. There are some exceptions, but usually quite a bit more expensive.

I have found that good quality batteries are like good tools. You get what you pay for, so decide what you really want or will use before purchasing.nojoke
 
Here some more info on this topic that is found in other threads & a cheaper cigarette adapter from Battery Tender.

Battery Maintainer:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?33730-Battery-Maintainer

Battery Not Holding a Charge:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...11-RT-won-t-hold-a-charge&p=359084#post359084

Adapter:
http://batterytender.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Adapter+081-0069-5&x=0&y=0

Remember, per the maintenance manual, riding at a lower RPM does not allow the Spyder's "charging system" to charge at an optimum level which equals to constant battery drain. The more accessories operating equals faster drain. Using a Battery Tender (religiously) can correct this by ensuring that your battery is charged to its peak. Also, riding at a higher RPM will greatly aid in maintaining a fully charged battery.
 
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