• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Wiring diag/schematic?

Try This....

Most of the shop manuals have the wiring diagrams. You can get them online for about $20.00 and they come with all the information for testing changing and repairing your spyder. Wiring alone I don't know where you can get ..... :thumbup:
 
Sorry to hijack this thread but this is an electrical question.

Since the Ryker does not actually have an on/off key, where would I find a source of 12v that is switchable? I am not at all familiar with Canbus but I doubt if it is possible to just 'hook into' the wiring. I read somewhere that Canbus systems 'often' have 'ports' built in for accessories. Anyone know if the Ryker does?

In case anyone is curious, I'm devising a method of locking the frunk using a solenoid (and Quasimotoard's discovered device.)
 
Sorry to hijack this thread but this is an electrical question.

Since the Ryker does not actually have an on/off key, where would I find a source of 12v that is switchable? I am not at all familiar with Canbus but I doubt if it is possible to just 'hook into' the wiring. I read somewhere that Canbus systems 'often' have 'ports' built in for accessories. Anyone know if the Ryker does?

In case anyone is curious, I'm devising a method of locking the frunk using a solenoid (and Quasimotoard's discovered device.)


Canbus is the communication between smart devices on a machine or system and in this case the Spyder. All the smart devices are connected by a pair of communication wires. There is no need to tap into these wires for powering an accessory. They do not carry 12V power for the accessory so what's the point. It would be like plugging your toaster into the phone jack in your house. You can connect accessories to any 12V circuit as long as the circuit has enough power for the accessory or the circuit is not monitored for current draw like the turn signal lights. With any accessory there is a risk that it is so electrically noisy. That it can interfere with the communication on the can bus lines. It does not matter if the accessory is connected to any branch circuit, designated accessory circuit or directly to the battery.
 
There are many external fuse blocks that are available. They draw their power from the battery. Some have "keyed" connections that are triggered when the bike is turned on. For lighting and a few other planned future mods I like the show chrome accessory fuse box. Which provides a way to trigger the add on lights to work when the originals are operated such as running lights, brake lights, turn signals. It also provides connections for hot taps and "keyed" taps. Power for the accessories comes from the battery thus bypassing CAN bus.
 
There is a wiring diagram in the electronic shop manual that is for sale on ebay (i believe) cost was about $25. I think the company was Green Manuals
 
Good information all. I Googled (what else?) CANbus and am a little more up to date now. And I'm going to go with a fuse block to avoid any issues and make farkleing easier.
 
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