I hate the wet butt I get on my Ryker rally between the seat and the max mount. I want to put the upper rear fender on it, I think that will solve my problem, but I have the Slingmods trunk/saddle bags (which I love) and am not sure the upper fender will mount with that bracket. Anyone tried it?
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Will the upper rear fender work with the Slingmods trunk on the rally
- Thread starter nanloren
- Start date
Rykerrally
New member
Yes you can put the rear fender back. Just use longer bolts to attach the rack and fender together
Trazgo2000
New member
I've tried figuring out a solution for the same problem and couldn't find anything either until I stumbled across SpyderExtras water shield this weekend. I was looking at cutting the factory Rally rear fender to cover the gap until I found this. $50 plus $12 shipping. It does involve drilling 2 7/16" holes in the Maxmount for plastic inserts. I'll install it and post results. It's weird how the saddlebags were designed to leave this gap and are only sold thru Slingmods.com but the cover is only available thru SpryderExtras.com
https://spyderextras.com/shop/details/189/SPYDER-EXTRAS-RYKER-MAX-MOUNT-WATER-SHILED-RYK-RWSH
Thats a nice find for the Rally Edition owners. I love the look of the open rear wheel on the Rally, its one of the cosmetic reasons I chose it over the standard 900. I saw some who were converting theirs to the the full fender and I didnt want to go that route. This would be a good option for me and it would also help hide some of the wiring on my luggage lights and brake strobe light that I have tucked under there.
canamryder
New member
I'm one of those Rally owners who converted to a full fender. I do like the looks of the open fender, but I hated always cleaning (or leaving it dirty) the road crud off of the top of the swing arm and from up under the seat/max mount area. I do have that extended upper rear fender on. I never got a wet butt with the open fender on, but after my rides there would be road dust{?} accumulating on top of the back of the seat, on that uncomfortable ridge. The full fender took care of that problem also. There is an opening on each side of the extended fender up behind the seat. BTW my new comfort seat took care of that uncomfortable ridge.
Trazgo2000
New member
I got the fender in yesterday and started the install this morning. I couldn't get the plate mounted with the saddlebags on so I had to remove them. Then I couldn't get the saddle bag holes to line up with the fender holes. I cut the notch on the fender deeper to allow the square tubing on the bottom of the saddlebag mount to slide in further and touched up the paint. This fender does require drilling 2 holes in the Maxmount to secure the bottom side of it with screws and plastic inserts. I took the side bag mounts off for more room to work and to lighten the mount when reinstalling. Then I stripped one of the front threaded inserts. Now the question is how to fix it. Helicoil? Drill and bolt thru the top of the Maxmount? There is enough clearance under the passenger seat for a bolt/screw head without having to counterbore.
I saw the video about putting the full fender on a Rally but didn't think it would be cost effective having the dealer do it seeing how I don't have the tools to remove the rear tire.
Any thought on how to fix a stripped Maxmount?
I saw the video about putting the full fender on a Rally but didn't think it would be cost effective having the dealer do it seeing how I don't have the tools to remove the rear tire.
Any thought on how to fix a stripped Maxmount?
Markubis
Member
How thick is the max mount for the heli coil? That may be the best route but if you can fit a through bolt that would be easiest.
Trazgo2000
New member
The hole is 1/2" deep and the bolt slightly shorter. If I install a Helicoil then I risk stripping the other 3. I understand it is aluminum, but this shouldn't happen while using a 1/4" drive ratchet.
sKiZo
New member
Wondering if whoever installed the mount used LocTite, and how well you cleaned the threads before stripping it? Anti seize compounds can be just as bad. Especially important for a closed bolt hole that doesn't go all the way thru as the crap's got nowhere to go and just gets shoved to the bottom. I've gotten in the habit of wheeling the bolts and chasing the holes with a tap to eliminate any chance of cross threading. Extra work maybe, but a whole lot easier than any fix might be.
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