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when you replace the rear tire
- Thread starter copilot
- Start date
Highwayman2013
New member
Torque wrench.
Bob Denman
New member
Yup! :thumbup:There's nothing magical about it; just use the right tools, for the right job! :2thumbs:
pegasus1300
Well-known member
If you don't have one Auto Zone or O'Rielly's will rent you one cheap. Or you can go to Harbor Freight and buy one for 10 bucks. Not the best in the world but adequate for the amount that you will use it.
If you're using a torque wrench, are you going to torque the nut side or bolt side and where would a person get this torque information. I have never heard of a nut and bolt being torqued. I guess two torque wrenches on both sides or something like that so both sides are equally torqued.
Bob Denman
New member
Bob Denman
New member
According to my 2014 RT manual: 155 to 177 pound/feet of torque.
It's in the specifications section at the back of the manual.
It's in the specifications section at the back of the manual.
Dan McNally
New member
Only six of us have ever read the manual, Bob. (yes, SpyderAnn01 - I know you are one of the six! ) :roflblack:
Bob Denman
New member
:lecturef_smilie: There will be a quiz, at the end of Class... :shocked:
Last edited:
finless
New member
Previous years it was 99 lbf. This came up before and some think 115 to 177 is too high and possibly a misprint!
My manual for my 2011 RTS says 99 lbf.
If they raised it in 2014, I do not know why as far as I know nothing else changed with the rear tire and axel setup!
Bob
trikermutha
New member
Just did mine 166lbf on a 2014 RTL
Bob Denman
New member
The moral to THIS story...
Read your manual! :thumbup:
AeroPilot
Member
60% increase on the torque for the same axle bolt?
I know that the manuals shows a much higher torque rating for the 2014-2015 models and to some extent I agree that the higher belt tension/HP/Torque to the rear axle may warrant some of thisg.
The 1/2" torque wrench and crowfoot allow you to get on the right side easily enough, and a Big A crescent with cheater as backup on the left will work, but it still feels a little heavy handed to torque it that high. Did they change the grade of steel used in the axle?
A 36 MM socket and 25" breaker bar hold backup well when I hold it down with one knee (I don't have Bob's lovely assistant), and 120 ft-lbs feels right to me on a cleaned and lightly lubed nut and axle combo. JMHO. I have done the last two tire changes and no problem so far with about 5,000 miles running.....
I know that the manuals shows a much higher torque rating for the 2014-2015 models and to some extent I agree that the higher belt tension/HP/Torque to the rear axle may warrant some of thisg.
The 1/2" torque wrench and crowfoot allow you to get on the right side easily enough, and a Big A crescent with cheater as backup on the left will work, but it still feels a little heavy handed to torque it that high. Did they change the grade of steel used in the axle?
A 36 MM socket and 25" breaker bar hold backup well when I hold it down with one knee (I don't have Bob's lovely assistant), and 120 ft-lbs feels right to me on a cleaned and lightly lubed nut and axle combo. JMHO. I have done the last two tire changes and no problem so far with about 5,000 miles running.....
Bob Denman
New member
:shocked: Should that nut be getting any lube on it, before it gets torqued??? :shocked:
I seem to vaguely recall reading something about that once... :dontknow:
I seem to vaguely recall reading something about that once... :dontknow:
AeroPilot
Member
You are right Bob.. Manual says nothing about adding any lube.
All I found was some other links regarding reducing torque for wet or oiled fittings. They suggest reducing the spec dry torque by 10-25% depending on source. They also note that torque should not be reduced if Loctite or similar is applied, but it just doesn't feel right:bowdown:
:dontknow:
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
http://www.antiseize.com/pdf/torque_specifications.pdf
All I found was some other links regarding reducing torque for wet or oiled fittings. They suggest reducing the spec dry torque by 10-25% depending on source. They also note that torque should not be reduced if Loctite or similar is applied, but it just doesn't feel right:bowdown:
:dontknow:
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
http://www.antiseize.com/pdf/torque_specifications.pdf
Bob Denman
New member
Thanks for this info about wet torque... :thumbup:
Glad to see that nobody is getting "torqued-up", and arguing over any of this!! :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:
Glad to see that nobody is getting "torqued-up", and arguing over any of this!! :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:
IGETAROUND
Active member
2014 RS 98 FtLbf for rear axle :dontknow:
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
2013 RT is 96 lb-ft. Based on your questions I suggest you do some studying about torque. It's much too serious of a concept to not have a good understanding of it, particularly in relation to all the nuts and bolts on the Spyder. Torque is an indirect measure of how much a bolt is stretched when the nut is tightened. It's the stretching of the bolt that holds the pieces together. Think of them as super stiff rubber bands.
Here are a couple of good explanations.
http://study.com/academy/lesson/what-is-torque-definition-equation-calculation.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque
