torque wrench for general maint

[412Spyder]

Hey guys just needed some input. I just bought the service manual for my bike but i haven't got it yet. I need to change my spark plugs and my buddies torque wrench i borrowed, i just noticed he stored it for the last year at 70 lbs and not 0lbs. i don't feel like sending out his wrench and paying 30-40$ to get it calibrated so i was going to buy my own as i plan on doing small general maint to my spyder ( change plugs, oil, and other small things ). I'm strapped for cash at the moment and was wondering if a beam style torque wrench was ok to go with. Ideally i would want the click, or breakaway but i saw this one and it seems like a decent deal to me. Let me know what you think again this is only for small things.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...+torque+wrench&prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

if anyone has any better suggestions please let me know. Thank you

 

[WackyDan]

Honestly... Don't need a torque wrench for the plugs.

1. Easy to over torque them with the thermal grease on the threads ( as the grease should be)

2. Plugs already have crush rings on them. It is easier and probably safer to go by feel with a stubby ratchet. You'll be able to feel when those rings flatten and get a tad tight.

I would save up for a 100 lb wrench for later use as you will want one for the lugs (77 lbs), handle bar clamps, etc where you absolutely want to make sure you are in a specific torque range.

 

[boborgera]

Hey guys just needed some input. I just bought the service manual for my bike but i haven't got it yet. I need to change my spark plugs and my buddies torque wrench i borrowed, i just noticed he stored it for the last year at 70 lbs and not 0lbs. i don't feel like sending out his wrench and paying 30-40$ to get it calibrated so i was going to buy my own as i plan on doing small general maint to my spyder ( change plugs, oil, and other small things ). I'm strapped for cash at the moment and was wondering if a beam style torque wrench was ok to go with. Ideally i would want the click, or breakaway but i saw this one and it seems like a decent deal to me. Let me know what you think again this is only for small things.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...+torque+wrench&prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

if anyone has any better suggestions please let me know. Thank you

I would just tighten the plugs with a small handle socket wrench, I don't think that a torque wrench will work in an enclosed spot where the plugs are. Especially a beam type. I have both types, The rare times i use a torque wrench i only use the clicker, very hard to get a accurate feel on a beam type. Also if you intend to work on the rear axle [36mm nut] you'll need 96 Flb. of torque, i would be looking at a 120+ wrench. Hope this helps you out.

 

[NancysToy]

Alas, too many people are unaware that storing a micrometer-type torque wrench with tension on the spring will later result in false readings. You can check one yourself, if you have an eight-point socket who's head fits the square drive, and a beam-type wrench to check it against. In absence of that, you are right in not trusting it.

I seldom use a torque wrench on spark plugs. Difficult to get a decent reading, between any heat sink compounds, oil or other lubricants on the threads, and the "softness" of the compression gasket. I always choke up on a small ratchet, tighten until the compression gasket touches, then snug them a bit farther to compress the gasket. New plugs require a bit more of a turn after contact than old plugs with a previously compressed gasket.

 

[RShrimp]

Harbor freight click type is like $15. I know someone is going to say bad things about Harbor freight, me, and my children but you said your on a budget.

I was a GM line mechanic for over 10 years in the 70's and 80's NIASE (now ASE) Certified General Mechanic (means I passed every test they had)and I can assure you of two things.
1. The HF $15 torque wrench is a whole bunch more accurate than your elbow.
2. HF does have some junk but their torque wrenches are pretty nice.
Sure it's made in China, but try to find one that's not for under $150

While I seldom use a torque wrench at all, you have to break off a few bolts to calibrate your elbow (read 30 years experience)

 

[boborgera]

While I seldom use a torque wrench at all, you have to break off a few bolts to calibrate your elbow (read 30 years experience)

:agree:
AMEN to that

 

[Sarge707]

Thats the same one I bought at Sears - But get the 0-150 Ft Pd Range one that comes in 1/2 inch and buy a 3/8 adaptor.(Same Price!)
I researched and a lot of people feel the Beam style is more accurate than the click style because a CHEAP click style is worthless!
The beam style is most accurate in its mid-range readings so the 1-150 Pd tool will give you your best readings at about 70-90 Pds and thats where a lot of critical stuff is on the Spyder.
Google "Beam Torque wrench "and read for yourself!
The Craftsman Has a LIFETIME Guarantee and can be taken out of the Plastic without hurting or cutting anything. So put the container and receipt aside and if it Koonkss Out Bring it back and get a FREE new one!!


I ,m going to do my Front Sprocket bolt torque to 81-89 Ft Pds as soon as it stops raining?:dontknow:

 

[fencepost]

A in/lb 1/4" drive torque wrench is also handy to have around for the small numbers.

 

[412Spyder]

About the HF torque... i was going to go that route but i want a wrench i know has good review... not saying HF stuff is bad but a $15 click wrench sounds scary to me and if i mess something up due to it i will be farther in the hole.... went to sears tonight they were out of the 150lb wrench that was recommended, so waiting for it to come in stock. I really want to put the plugs in with regular hand tightening, but if something bad is going to happen its going to happen to me and my luck already with my JB installing and exhaust isnt going my way. Gotta love lemons in life. Thanks for the info everyone i appreciate it... once i get some cash flow going i will deff be buying a set of nice tools.

 

[NancysToy]

About the HF torque... i was going to go that route but i want a wrench i know has good review... not saying HF stuff is bad but a $15 click wrench sounds scary to me and if i mess something up due to it i will be farther in the hole.... went to sears tonight they were out of the 150lb wrench that was recommended, so waiting for it to come in stock. I really want to put the plugs in with regular hand tightening, but if something bad is going to happen its going to happen to me and my luck already with my JB installing and exhaust isnt going my way. Gotta love lemons in life. Thanks for the info everyone i appreciate it... once i get some cash flow going i will deff be buying a set of nice tools.

The spark plugs are only torqued to 18 N-m (159 lbf-in), or 4 lbf-ft! A monster of a 20-150 lbf-ft torque wrench is not going to read this low, nor will it be accurate if it did. Even the 10-75 lbf-ft version will not do spark plugs. You need a much smaller torque wrench for this kind of work. You would need the baby, the 25-250 lbf-in (2-21 lbf-ft) version. Even the rear axle is only torqued to 96 lbf-ft, so 150 is overkill. Unfortunately, Sears does not sell a 100 lbf-ft micrometer torque wrench, like they used to in the old beam gauges. They do sell a digital 5-80 lbf-ft unit.

 

[412Spyder]

The spark plugs are only torqued to 18 N-m (159 lbf-in), or 4 lbf-ft! A monster of a 20-150 lbf-ft torque wrench is not going to read this low, nor will it be accurate if it did. Even the 10-75 lbf-ft version will not do spark plugs. You need a much smaller torque wrench for this kind of work. You would need the baby, the 25-250 lbf-in (2-21 lbf-ft) version. Even the rear axle is only torqued to 96 lbf-ft, so 150 is overkill. Unfortunately, Sears does not sell a 100 lbf-ft micrometer torque wrench, like they used to in the old beam gauges. They do sell a digital 5-80 lbf-ft unit.

haha thanks for summing that up... looks like im going to use your method and do it by hand ( i did all my cars this way and you guys know what your talking about... with this spyder i just try to be as anal as possible ).

 

[NancysToy]

haha thanks for summing that up... looks like im going to use your method and do it by hand ( i did all my cars this way and you guys know what your talking about... with this spyder i just try to be as anal as possible ).

I think that's what I just did in my post above. :roflblack: What I find works best is to use an appropriate length extension, with a 3/8" drive ratchet. I hold the ratchet so I put the extension between my middle and ring fingers, "choking up" on the wrench. You can do the same with a T-handle. It makes it easier to control the torque. You only need the plugs to be snug enough to slightly compress the gasket. Don't get carried away. Once you get the feel for it, it becomes second nature. Don't forget your heat sink compound.

 

[412Spyder]

I think that's what I just did in my post above. :roflblack: What I find works best is to use an appropriate length extension, with a 3/8" drive ratchet. I hold the ratchet so I put the extension between my middle and ring fingers, "choking up" on the wrench. You can do the same with a T-handle. It makes it easier to control the torque. You only need the plugs to be snug enough to slightly compress the gasket. Don't get carried away. Once you get the feel for it, it becomes second nature. Don't forget your heat sink compound.

haha yeah you deff did my bad man... got the thermal compound the other day at micro center im ready to roll just gotta get a can of compressed air to blow off and debris around the old plug before i pull it out. going to do this tomorrow morning along with your recommendation of the purge valve plug, im praying this will fix my problems.