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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Time for me to ask opinions please. I don't ask for many so hoping to get many :)
- Thread starter finless
- Start date
Bob, the only way you will know it was done correctly is to do it yourself. It's no different than any other service.
The valve check is very easy and really the adjustment, if needed, is well within your skill set and not all that bad. I doubt it's going to be anything more than a check.
Personally, I'd do the work and document all my numbers, take pics and get it done. I'd worry about fighting about what limited warranty I had if it became an issue.
However, since I have no warranty to worry about I don't even plan on checking them until 30k+ [emoji33]
The valve check is very easy and really the adjustment, if needed, is well within your skill set and not all that bad. I doubt it's going to be anything more than a check.
Personally, I'd do the work and document all my numbers, take pics and get it done. I'd worry about fighting about what limited warranty I had if it became an issue.
However, since I have no warranty to worry about I don't even plan on checking them until 30k+ [emoji33]
MouthPiece
Banged Up Member
Just what constitutes a "valve check" which is recognized by BRP. Does all the dealer have to do is sign off saying that they did a valve check? Does a mere listening to the valves constitute a valve check?
Chris
Chris
Gray Ghost
New member
The wording from the 2013 manual "Check and adjust valves clearance." Listening does not do it. To properly check the valve clearance you have to use feeler gauges to actually measure it. If a dealer isn't doing that, but charges you for it, they are committing fraud.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I THINK
Just charging you $ 800.00 or so constitutes a Valve check .....:roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack:.......sorry I couldn't help myself .....Mike :gaah:
Just charging you $ 800.00 or so constitutes a Valve check .....:roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack:.......sorry I couldn't help myself .....Mike :gaah:
MRH
Active member
My answer was here, but it may have been lost. Lou at Pirate Powersports in Riverside is a Spyder expert, has worked on these for many years, is a former BRP employee. The only thing he can't do, regrettably, is warranty work.
I'm going in Monday for my oil, brakes, tires, etc, which I do every 5K miles on my 2014 RT. He is reasonabley priced and very good at what he does:
http://www.piratepowersports.com
He is a busy one man shop, so it can take some to get in touch with him and get on his schedule. The effort is well worth it.
finless
New member
Yes I know about Lou. I can do my own work as I stated.
The only reason I was considering a dealer is keeping the warranty without question (e.g. dealer signed off the valve check) and since I know my Evap canister needs to be replaced, I was going to have that warranty work done as part of it. But if I do my own work for this 14K, I will just bypass the canister.
The other reason was to get a BUDS check and any updates needed although pretty sure my 2011 RTS has had no updates since it was at the dealer in July 2013.
Chupaca, I have been told Lou does NOT do warranty work.
Anyway, parts are on order with Baja Ron and I am going to do it myself.
Thanks everyone for the advice!
Bob
The only reason I was considering a dealer is keeping the warranty without question (e.g. dealer signed off the valve check) and since I know my Evap canister needs to be replaced, I was going to have that warranty work done as part of it. But if I do my own work for this 14K, I will just bypass the canister.
The other reason was to get a BUDS check and any updates needed although pretty sure my 2011 RTS has had no updates since it was at the dealer in July 2013.
Chupaca, I have been told Lou does NOT do warranty work.
Anyway, parts are on order with Baja Ron and I am going to do it myself.
Thanks everyone for the advice!
Bob
MidTNDawg
New member
You said a lot of responses
This is a some-what informed response. IMO, you should contact "your" dealer, tell them you are going to do the service due to their no longer having a factory trained tech and then do the service. Keep a detailed record (as if you don't already do so) as to date, materials, time, etc. If the service writer, mgr, tries to disagree, just say this is not open to discussion. Warranty requires the work to be done properly; it does not require a dealer to do it.
This is a some-what informed response. IMO, you should contact "your" dealer, tell them you are going to do the service due to their no longer having a factory trained tech and then do the service. Keep a detailed record (as if you don't already do so) as to date, materials, time, etc. If the service writer, mgr, tries to disagree, just say this is not open to discussion. Warranty requires the work to be done properly; it does not require a dealer to do it.
finless
New member
OK happy to say..... All parts ordered from Baja Ron to do the job myself.
This is what's on the list:
1) Oil change of course
2) Air filter replace
3) Spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced
4) Rear brake pads
5) Flush the brake fluid and replace. I am a little nervous about this procedure without having BUDs.
I do have a car vacuum bleeder so I think I am just going to go for it fully rather than do the old school pump the brake peddle, open a bleeder tit, etc.
The fluid in the reservoir looks clear and clean but it says to replace the fluid so I am going to do it. Time to study up on what others have done here.
6) Coolant flush and replace.
7) Clean the throttle bodies.
8) Lube front suspension arms. Have to figure out and study the lube tit issues again.
Things I am not going to do:
1) Check the valve adjustment unless I decide to do it when I get there. Pretty sure I am going to skip it.
2) Bearing seals on rear wheel. Just had the wheel off to replace the tire. Seals looked fantastic!
Over and above:
Going to do a canisterectomy! Had I taken it to the dealer for this 14K service I would have that replaced under warranty. But what's the sense?
It would just get fouled again later and my Jan 2016 no more warranty for me. Thus it's time to just resolve the issue and gas stink.
I will probably be doing this about mid April based on current mileage. I will video what I can but for sure just enough to document what I have done in case I do need warranty work before Jan 2016.
Thank again all for the advise. It helped sway me one direction which as some said, I knew the answer all along. Just needed a push in the right direction
Bob
This is what's on the list:
1) Oil change of course
2) Air filter replace
3) Spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced
4) Rear brake pads
5) Flush the brake fluid and replace. I am a little nervous about this procedure without having BUDs.
I do have a car vacuum bleeder so I think I am just going to go for it fully rather than do the old school pump the brake peddle, open a bleeder tit, etc.
The fluid in the reservoir looks clear and clean but it says to replace the fluid so I am going to do it. Time to study up on what others have done here.
6) Coolant flush and replace.
7) Clean the throttle bodies.
8) Lube front suspension arms. Have to figure out and study the lube tit issues again.
Things I am not going to do:
1) Check the valve adjustment unless I decide to do it when I get there. Pretty sure I am going to skip it.
2) Bearing seals on rear wheel. Just had the wheel off to replace the tire. Seals looked fantastic!
Over and above:
Going to do a canisterectomy! Had I taken it to the dealer for this 14K service I would have that replaced under warranty. But what's the sense?
It would just get fouled again later and my Jan 2016 no more warranty for me. Thus it's time to just resolve the issue and gas stink.
I will probably be doing this about mid April based on current mileage. I will video what I can but for sure just enough to document what I have done in case I do need warranty work before Jan 2016.
Thank again all for the advise. It helped sway me one direction which as some said, I knew the answer all along. Just needed a push in the right direction
Bob
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