I did not say tension had anything to do with the alignment. I was just stating what my tension is. Which is recommended 160/180 ft lbs. My alignment was all done with the two screws on each side. If the belt is tracking to the inside flange I just barely tied the screw on the right side which pulls the wheel back. You need to do just tighten it very little. You don't even think you have moved it and the belt will track to the outside. It takes patients you sometimes have to ride it awhile before it moves. I have mind so the belt is running about center on the front drive sprocket. I feel no vibration other than just a smidgen on acceleration if in sixth gear pulling. Riding at any speed I feel no vibration. I do have car tires, centralmatic balancer's and Doc's belt tension-er. Also I feel my alignment is right on. I have done my own laser alignment.You know, I don't know that anyone has determined if there is any correlation between belt tension and tracking. I know the angle of the axle with respect to the centerline of the two pulleys is absolutely controlling.
Back in the old farm days of belt driven machinery we had a wood cutting buzz saw we ran from our small Allis Chalmers tractor. We used a short flat belt, about 6" wide. To get it to stay on track we had to have quite a bit of tension on it. And then we had a long, maybe 20', flat belt we occasionally used to run the saw from a different tractor. That belt had to have a fairly low tension, so low we had to depend on belt dressing to keep it from slipping. If we got it too tight it would walk right off the pulleys. Does this experience have any bearing on our Spyder belts, I don't know, but maybe it does.