• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Sticking saddlebag

cptjam

Registered User
Had one that just refused to work properly. Did the hip check trick, the slap and tickle, jiggle. Finally got it open. Lubed the catch. Adjusted it to hit properly. Still sticky. Went thru that a few times to find the sweet spot. Nope! Finally took all the Tupperware off the back, turned the cable adjuster one turn, and BOOM! Works perfectly!! If your bag lids stick, try that!!
 
Good to know....

We should have a tip of the day page here..:lecturef_smilie:after all Joe Public and Joe Meyer do find these cures for us...:clap::clap:
 
I have the bike out of storage, and the saddle bags are sticking, but I can still get them open. Any chance someone has a pic of what the adjuster looks like? I have no issues taking the tupperware off, just not sure what to do after that.

Thanks
Ray
 
Had one that just refused to work properly. Did the hip check trick, the slap and tickle, jiggle. Finally got it open. Lubed the catch. Adjusted it to hit properly. Still sticky. Went thru that a few times to find the sweet spot. Nope! Finally took all the Tupperware off the back, turned the cable adjuster one turn, and BOOM! Works perfectly!! If your bag lids stick, try that!!
Very timely advice. Thanks Joe
 
Another trick

About twice a season, or more if I'm in the mood, I clean my latches with
an old toothbrush and some solvent. Then finish up with a little squirt
of WD40. Those latches get pretty gummed up and will stick.
Chuck

Had one that just refused to work properly. Did the hip check trick, the slap and tickle, jiggle. Finally got it open. Lubed the catch. Adjusted it to hit properly. Still sticky. Went thru that a few times to find the sweet spot. Nope! Finally took all the Tupperware off the back, turned the cable adjuster one turn, and BOOM! Works perfectly!! If your bag lids stick, try that!!
 
My right side bag is getting really bad. I am not sure where the cable adjustment is. any help would be really appreciated.

Ray
 
Had a sticky Lt. bag. Pulled the trunk panel, turned the adjuster one full turn, and whaala, works as should. I think after a few pulls on the paddles when new, the cables have some initial stretch in them and they require the slack to be taken up. Mac:doorag:
 
Had a sticky Lt. bag. Pulled the trunk panel, turned the adjuster one full turn, and whaala, works as should. I think after a few pulls on the paddles when new, the cables have some initial stretch in them and they require the slack to be taken up. Mac:doorag:

What I'm trying to find out is what that adjuster looks like, and exactly where it is. I had the back panel off this past weekend, but didn't see anything that looks like an adjuster. If it's behind the latch, I am not sure how to get in there.

Thanks
Ray
 
What I'm trying to find out is what that adjuster looks like, and exactly where it is. I had the back panel off this past weekend, but didn't see anything that looks like an adjuster. If it's behind the latch, I am not sure how to get in there.

Thanks
Ray

You are in the right spot. Follow the cables from the paddle, down about 12 to14 inches(behind the tail lights) and you will find a barrel with a nut on it(might be zip-tied to the plastic molding). Loosen the nut and turn the barrel counter clockwise a small amount, then try to open the bag. Do this until you have most of the slack taken up. Leave about 1/8" of slack, just before the paddle starts to have resistance and starts to release the latch/bag. This should get the desired effect for you. Good luck! Mac:doorag:
 
You are in the right spot. Follow the cables from the paddle, down about 12 to14 inches(behind the tail lights) and you will find a barrel with a nut on it(might be zip-tied to the plastic molding). Loosen the nut and turn the barrel counter clockwise a small amount, then try to open the bag. Do this until you have most of the slack taken up. Leave about 1/8" of slack, just before the paddle starts to have resistance and starts to release the latch/bag. This should get the desired effect for you. Good luck! Mac:doorag:


Thanks so much Mac. I will be doing this tonight when I get home from work.

Ray
 
Thanks again Mac, the whole process took less than 10 mins, once I knew what and where i was looking for.

Ray
 
Do you have any pictures or explanations of how to access the adjusters, now that you've got it figured out?

Take off the colored back plastic, as others on this thread have stated. 8 screws, 4 in the top of the plastic at the truck, 2 on each side in the saddlebag. (the rear 2)
Next remove the three small screws under the handles for the trunk and saddlebags. This lowers the black plastic under the turn signals.
The adjusters were right below my turn signal assemblies. Very easy to get at. The look like a black plastic tube, about 1.25" long, with a cable going through them.
Un-tighten the lock nut ( I did this easily by hand ) and turn the barrel of the adjuster clockwise. I did one full turn to start and checked if the bags would open. On my bike, both needed more to work properly, but every bike will be different.
Tighten up the lock nut, and replace the lower black Tupperware with the three screws, and the colored plastic with all 8 of it's screws and you are done.

Hope this helps others.

Ray
 
Back
Top