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Starting In Limp Mode

driver

New member
About a month ago my 2013 RT(9300 mi) started in limp mode. After trying to get it to start normally for several days I got it started and took it to my dealer. They checked it out and said the fault was in the throttle control. They checked it out and said it was fine now. Also Can-Am said that when this happens to just shut it off and let the computers reset and restart it. Well it did it again (started in limp mode) and their method worked, after about 5 days. It's back in the shop and there're saying they can find no fault. That maybe its caused by a low battery. I commute with the RT so the battery should not be low, besides if the battery is low how does it recharge itself after 5 days if it's not running! Anybody else run into this problem, I really like my Spyder but this is starting to smell like a lemon and California has a lemon law?
 
welcome

i don't have any clue, when you let the bike reset do you remove the key. i have read that the key needs to be removed so it can reset properly because the chip in the key is read and does not reset right. other than that welcome to the 2013 problem rides
 
About a month ago my 2013 RT(9300 mi) started in limp mode. After trying to get it to start normally for several days I got it started and took it to my dealer. They checked it out and said the fault was in the throttle control. They checked it out and said it was fine now. Also Can-Am said that when this happens to just shut it off and let the computers reset and restart it. Well it did it again (started in limp mode) and their method worked, after about 5 days. It's back in the shop and there're saying they can find no fault. That maybe its caused by a low battery. I commute with the RT so the battery should not be low, besides if the battery is low how does it recharge itself after 5 days if it's not running! Anybody else run into this problem, I really like my Spyder but this is starting to smell like a lemon and California has a lemon law?

What code are you getting when it does that? Press Mode,Set, & turn sig buttons (push in as if to cancel) simultaneously and see what number/s pop up.
 
Sounds like the battery not charging up. Put tenter on battery and have your bat checked to see if you have a dead cell or need new one charge up right the first time from dealer like they do not do.....
 
Another possible cause is that you are twisting the throttle during initialization, (the time between turning on the key and when the press mode button message comes on).
 
Still starting in Limp Mode

Got my Spyder back. Dealer claimed it might be because the battery drops below 12 volts. Been putting a battery charger every night and the 3rd day I went out to go to work it started in limp mode again. Checked the code and came up (P1614). Don't know what that is , anyone out the know. Soon as I can get it to start out of limp mode I'm taking it to another dealer to get a 2nd set of eyes on it.
 
If it is spitting out codes then your dealer "should" be able to fix it. However the consensus on here is that there are very few dealers that can (or will) fix these machines. Some people are driving a few hundred miles to get proper work done and that's just a shame.
 
P1614 ....shows ECM Engine Control Module...Throttle idle position failure on Throttle release....possible cause: Throttle mechanical adjustment. No initalization after Throttle body / ECM replacement
 
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P1614

When I got that code it was a TB issue. Never got the Limp mode screen but bike would not idle. One dealer did an update but finely replaced the TB after a few more failures to run right. Dealer should have found this code himself. Good luck.
 
Got my Spyder back. Dealer claimed it might be because the battery drops below 12 volts. Been putting a battery charger every night and the 3rd day I went out to go to work it started in limp mode again. Checked the code and came up (P1614). Don't know what that is , anyone out the know. Soon as I can get it to start out of limp mode I'm taking it to another dealer to get a 2nd set of eyes on it.
This is a known issue and is not caused by the battery voltage. You need a new throttle body. Have your dealer contact BRP dealer tech support and get an education.
 
Throttle Body needs to be replaced. Call your dealer and tell him the P1614 code showed up. Ask him what that code means. If he doesn't know, tell him it is a bad Throttle Body and it needs to be replaced under warranty. That was a 2010 and 2011 RT issue. You may be the first 2013.
 
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