Starting a Spyder off of a battery booster

[scubadown]

I purchased a Rugged Geek Boost starter recommended by Lamonster. I could not get it to start my 2013 ST-L. I contacted Rugged Geek and they sent me another one. It too will not turn over the Sypder engine but it will start my F-150. I have hooked it up to the jump points on the LHS and have tried direct off the battery. Neither works.

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This video is with the battery disconnected. Any suggestions?

 

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

call lamont and ask him

 

[2dogs]

I have a genius jump starter......

If the battery is 100% dead I have to put the unit into manual mode. Check the user instructions. Good luck.

 

[Grandpot]

Are you sure it's a dead battery and not something else?

 

[billybovine]

Mine does the same thing. But if you hook up the jump cables and wait for 1 minute maybe 2. It will start right up.

 

[Chupaca]

Agreed....

:agree: it's a download thing...:roflblack: seems all these smart batteries etc need to recognize what your doing or at least in what direction you are going.....

 

[scubadown]

Mine does the same thing. But if you hook up the jump cables and wait for 1 minute maybe 2. It will start right up.

I just tried this, both with the battery disconnected and the key on and then with the key off and the Rugged Geek Booster won't even turn the engine over once.

I have a brand new battery so I have to disconnect the battery to simulate a "bad" battery to test the booster.

This all started when I was installing some TricLed lights. I had the key on too much testing the lights and wore the battery down. I thought it would be a great test for my new, never tried battery booster. Hooked it up and it wouldn't crank it over. Since then I have installed a new battery but I don't trust this particular booster for when I ever need it. What is weird is it will crank my truck but not my little spyder.

 

[Easy Rider]

I have a brand new battery so I have to disconnect the battery to simulate a "bad" battery to test the booster.

No, that simulates a MISSING battery; it's not the same thing.

In the "boost" mode and without a battery in place the unit may be designed to NOT work on purpose.
Without a battery, VERY high and potentially damaging voltages could be produced.

 

[scubadown]

No, that simulates a MISSING battery; it's not the same thing.

In the "boost" mode and without a battery in place the unit may be designed to NOT work on purpose.
Without a battery, VERY high and potentially damaging voltages could be produced.

Well it didn't crank it with a dead battery either.

How can you check a battery booster if you have a good battery without disconnecting the vehicle battery?

 

[Easy Rider]

Well it didn't crank it with a dead battery either.

How can you check a battery booster if you have a good battery without disconnecting the vehicle battery?

How DEAD was it......and why ??
I guess the answer is: You find a weak battery to test it with.

You can't jump a vehicle in ALL situations, especially with an electronically controlled "charger".
Better to try an actual second good battery like the traditional method of "jumping".

When you make that second connection, the size of the spark can tell you a lot; a HUGE spark tells you that there likely is a short somewhere and you'd better disconnect the cables. Absolutely no spark tells you that the original battery is OPEN but the "traditional" jump should still work. The engine might die when you disconnect the cable though.

I personally think that a portable "jump pack" is better to have in reserve than a charger with a "start" position, mostly because of the difficulty that you are having. Also because they work without plugging into AC power.

 

[teninospyder]

Looking for help here.

How DEAD was it......and why ??
I guess the answer is: You find a weak battery to test it with.

You can't jump a vehicle in ALL situations, especially with an electronically controlled "charger".
Better to try an actual second good battery like the traditional method of "jumping".

When you make that second connection, the size of the spark can tell you a lot; a HUGE spark tells you that there likely is a short somewhere and you'd better disconnect the cables. Absolutely no spark tells you that the original battery is OPEN but the "traditional" jump should still work. The engine might die when you disconnect the cable though.

I personally think that a portable "jump pack" is better to have in reserve than a charger with a "start" position, mostly because of the difficulty that you are having. Also because they work without plugging into AC power.

OK....after reading these posts I'm a little confused on "how" to test my "Rugged" jumper - BEFORE I REALLY NEED IT:banghead: Having to leave the key on until the battery is weak, seems like a pretty lame way to test something. No other way ?

 

[scubadown]

Yeah I know what you mean. The first use of my Rugged was with a dead battery and it wouldn't crank it over. Charged the battery for about an hour and the bike started fine. Can not get the Rugged to start it by disconnecting the hot lead to the battery.

Soon, I am going to try using jumper cables from my car to see if that will start it.

Does anyone have a battery booster that works on a Spyder?

 

[Easy Rider]

OK....after reading these posts I'm a little confused on "how" to test my "Rugged" jumper -

What exactly IS a "Rugged" jumper ?
If it IS a battery.....and you REALLY think that you need to do a live test.....connect it INSTEAD of your battery.

Most of this discussion has been about a charger/booster piece of equipment.

 

[Easy Rider]

Does anyone have a battery booster that works on a Spyder?

I have a portable jump pack that starts my motor home. Pretty sure it will work on almost anything.

So.....the answer to that depends in large part on exactly what KIND of "booster" you are talking about.

 

[ofdave]

What exactly IS a "Rugged" jumper ?
If it IS a battery.....and you REALLY think that you need to do a live test.....connect it INSTEAD of your battery.

Most of this discussion has been about a charger/booster piece of equipment.

I find it more constructive to give advice when I actually know what the questioner is referring to.
After I know what he's talking about it is easier to give useful advice rather than just prattle.
https://ruggedgeek.com/collections/...rgency-jump-starter-and-portable-power-supply

 

[Easy Rider]

I find it more constructive to give advice when I actually know what the questioner is referring to.
After I know what he's talking about it is easier to give useful advice rather than just prattle.
https://ruggedgeek.com/collections/...rgency-jump-starter-and-portable-power-supply

Good for you.....providing the link, that is. The rest of your post is just "prattle". :shocked:

The device in the link is too smart for it's own good, probably, and likely won't actually connect if it sees no battery or one that is outside of "acceptable" parameters.

That is why I prefer a portable "dumb" battery in most situations.

 

[ofdave]

Good for you.....providing the link, that is. The rest of your post is just "prattle". :shocked:

The device in the link is too smart for it's own good, probably, and likely won't actually connect if it sees no battery or one that is outside of "acceptable" parameters.

That is why I prefer a portable "dumb" battery in most situations.

takes a prattler to know a prattler

 

[Peteoz]

No, that simulates a MISSING battery; it's not the same thing.

In the "boost" mode and without a battery in place the unit may be designed to NOT work on purpose.
Without a battery, VERY high and potentially damaging voltages could be produced.

Easy Rider, OFDave is 100% correct. How can you provide advice without even knowing what a “Rugged Jumper” is?

The advice you are providing everyone is incorrect. The Rugged Geek is designed to start the bike if you remove the battery. It is what Rugged Geek recommend as a test to see if your Rugged Geek is working. You do NOT get very high and potentially damaging voltages as the Rugged Geek covers that.

Pete

 

[Peteoz]

Yeah I know what you mean. The first use of my Rugged was with a dead battery and it wouldn't crank it over. Charged the battery for about an hour and the bike started fine. Can not get the Rugged to start it by disconnecting the hot lead to the battery.

Soon, I am going to try using jumper cables from my car to see if that will start it.

Does anyone have a battery booster that works on a Spyder?

Yes, I have one, Scubadown. It’s called a Rugged Geek. I thought mine wasn’t working either and got a replacement. It wouldn’t work either, on my Spyder or 4WD. I spoke to Rugged Geek to told me to remove my battery and connect the Geek direct. Guess what, it worked a treat on both vehicles.
If yours is still not working even with the battery out there is either a unit problem (most unlikely both would be faulty) or some kind of operator or configuration problem. I’ll have a hunt for the email Rugged Geek sent me asap.

Pete

 

[Peteoz]

The is the reply from Rugged Geek that helped me get mine going, scubadown. There might be something in here that helps. Otherwise call or email them direct. They are pretty helpful.

Peter,

Thank you for the additional information. Here are a couple points that may help us solve the problem:

• It does not work to test these cables on vehicles with fully charged batteries. The way the Intelli cables work is they will sense for a dead or low battery and transmit power only once that’s sensed. The max voltage on our jump starter when fully charged is approximately 12.6V, however a fully charged vehicle battery could be as high as 13V or more. So if you connect our jump starter to a fully charged vehicle battery, it won’t allow power to flow since doing so would only mean power would flow from the higher voltage source (car battery) to the lower voltage source (jump starter) which would be dangerous as you don’t want power flowing back into the jump starter unless it is through the charging port. So for the 2 Hyundai vehicles, this is likely what’s happening and it is doing as designed here. A better test here, and one we do often, is to disconnect the vehicle batteries completely and connect the jump starter direct to the battery wires from the vehicle.
• As for jump starting your Spyder: In this scenario, it should have worked for you, but my question here is: Did you try starting the bike, or did you not try as the light hadn’t gone green? In certain cases the accessory draw isn’t enough to turn the light green, especially if the battery on the bike/vehicle still has some charge as the accessories are likely being powered by that. That said, as soon as you hit the starter button, the draw from the starter motor should make the jump starter kick in and provide the power needed. In other words, the light doesn’t have to turn green to use the jump starter, just connect it as you would and start the bike/vehicle. The draw from that will be enough to kick it in and it should work for you.

I would this helps explain the situation. The intelliboost cables work great in 99% of situations, but with batteries that are partially or fully charged, the green light can sometimes lead to confusion as it won’t come until the starter is engaged due to the vehicle batteries powering the accessories. We will be updating our manual to better explain this, but I hope this email helps.

Please let me know if there is anything further I can help with,

Thank you again,
Samantha