Spyder RT 2011 - does theFuel Gauge still have the bouncing problem?

[eddieshep999]

Can any new owners confirm the Fuel gauge fitted as standard to the new 2011 Spyder RT's no longer have the bouncing needle problem?
I am trying to get my gauge replaced on my 2010 RT-S Replaced, but keep coming up against dealers saying "They all do that!"

I have read a lot of the posts on this problem and if the 2011 Fuel gauge is now fine, I would consider ordering one myself and fitting it.
Especially if someone knows the Part Number for the 2011 Fuel Gauge so that I can be sure of getting the latest one rather than a 2010 gauge.

Did BRP ever issue a recall notice or service bulletin with reference to the gauge problem?

Any information useful
Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

 

[ARtraveler]

Have not heard anything about 2011 gauges yet. My 2010 is in the shop today for replacement of bouncing guage #2 as well as a couple other issues. I too, shall wait and see. opcorn:

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I am leaving shortly to take mine in for replacement #2.

 

[billythekidd]

I am only one, but my 2011 RTS does not bounce....yet???


Willy

 

[baldman902]

I have a 2011 RTS and I disconnected both the analog gauges so they come up on the digital screen. They are more accurate that way. I replaced them with a digital volt meter and digital oil pressure gauge and I am very pleased with the result.:firstplace:

 

[ARtraveler]

Can you tell me what brand gauges you used - and how much of a hassle to install them. That is going to be my Plan B if gauge #2 does not work. Thanks.

 

[NancysToy]

My 2011 does not have any problems... but my 2010 did not have any more after they replaced the gauge in March of 2010. :dontknow:

 

[fishcraz]

2010 RT gas gauge bounced extremely badly from day 1 till the day it was gone. My 2011 RT-Limited - NO bounce with gas gauge. I believe there is/or was a fix to the gauge - the dealer should replace it with a new one.

Duane

 

[Dragonrider]

Alaska - this is from a "fixit" thread: The Gauge sender unit is fitted by screwing an adaptor into the engine that takes the place of the original Oil Pressure Switch, it then screws into the adaptor along with the new sender unit for the Gauge. Very easy to do, also not a huge job if you have to pay for it.

The biggest part of the Job is running the wires etc.

Gauges are available on Ebay (see Link)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-52mm-Step...item1c1243b945

 

[Questions]

Dragonrider, I tried the link and it is no longer valid.

 

[clueless]

if you are going to buy one I would think getting a 3rd party better quality gauge would be the answer.

Not sure what connections are on the back of the OEM fuel gauge or how easy it might be to convert to say, an autometer fuel gauge?

 

[msiple]

2011 Can Am Roadster RTS fuel guage

I purchased a 2011 Can Am Roadster RTS in March and I will be bringing it back in for second time. It is off by more than 3 gallons, at a 1/4 of a tank I go to fill it up and it takes 2.75 gallons, there is a huge problem. I'm planing on taking a USA 4 corners trip this summer and I need an accurate reading of how much fuel I have at all times.

I really hope Can Am gets this problem fixed.

:spyder:

 

[NancysToy]

I purchased a 2011 Can Am Roadster RTS in March and I will be bringing it back in for second time. It is off by more than 3 gallons, at a 1/4 of a tank I go to fill it up and it takes 2.75 gallons, there is a huge problem. I'm planing on taking a USA 4 corners trip this summer and I need an accurate reading of how much fuel I have at all times.

I really hope Can Am gets this problem fixed.

:spyder:

You will not find new parts to be any different. It is the nature of the beast. Many, if not most, vehicle gas gauges are not linear. They are merely an approximation of the fuel that is left. At the low fuel light on a Spyder, you should have roughly 50 miles worth of fuel left, give or take. All you can do is learn how your gauge acts, and ride & fill accordingly. I typically just refill based on the mileage on the trip meter, which I reset at every fill.

 

[msiple]

You will not find new parts to be any different. It is the nature of the beast. Many, if not most, vehicle gas gauges are not linear. They are merely an approximation of the fuel that is left. At the low fuel light on a Spyder, you should have roughly 50 miles worth of fuel left, give or take. All you can do is learn how your gauge acts, and ride & fill accordingly. I typically just refill based on the mileage on the trip meter, which I reset at every fill.

I just got off the phone with the dealership. They said they called BRP, and BRP said "BRP states that on Empty, one should get about 40 miles give or take out of the tank before it is truly empty. This is not a flaw, but a built in safety feature by design." Now, it all makes sense.

Thanks for your reply NancysToy, I think you hit it right on the head.

:spyder:

 

[Y Rider]

No bounce on mine but it's coming off eventually to be replaced by a oil pressure meter. For me it's useless. Shows empty but when I fill it up I can only get 4 gal in it. I go by miles on the tripometer now. I understand that the LCD gas gauge display is much more acurate anyway.

 

[clueless]

You will not find new parts to be any different. It is the nature of the beast. Many, if not most, vehicle gas gauges are not linear. They are merely an approximation of the fuel that is left. At the low fuel light on a Spyder, you should have roughly 50 miles worth of fuel left, give or take. All you can do is learn how your gauge acts, and ride & fill accordingly. I typically just refill based on the mileage on the trip meter, which I reset at every fill.

But if the digital gauge is more accurate, I have to assume the signal to the analog gauge is based off this same signal to the digital cluster... so the accuracy at empty is probably based off the quality of the OEM fuel analog gauge. So if a better, more expensive fuel gauge is used, I would think it would be close to the accuracy of the digital gauge.

 

[NancysToy]

I just got off the phone with the dealership. They said they called BRP, and BRP said "BRP states that on Empty, one should get about 40 miles give or take out of the tank before it is truly empty. This is not a flaw, but a built in safety feature by design." Now, it all makes sense.

Thanks for your reply NancysToy, I think you hit it right on the head.

:spyder:

It appears that BRP adjusted the "reserve" volume a little for the 2011 model. My 2011 fuel light comes on well before my 2010 did, and the tank takes less fuel. The 2010 did have about 40 miles reserve, but it seems the 2011 has a bit more.

But if the digital gauge is more accurate, I have to assume the signal to the analog gauge is based off this same signal to the digital cluster... so the accuracy at empty is probably based off the quality of the OEM fuel analog gauge. So if a better, more expensive fuel gauge is used, I would think it would be close to the accuracy of the digital gauge.

I am not convinced that the digital gauge is more accurate, just that it responds differently. Until someone installs an atermarket gauge, either digital or analog, we will not know if improvement is possible. My point was merely that replacing the BRP parts will not likely change the response. You do make a good point though, that by disconnecting both analog gauges and reverting to the digital display, an owner may that find he/she prefers the digital version.

 

[clueless]

Scotty, what does the connector on the back of the fuel gauge look like? Also, what size is the gauge? Are they 2 1/16" (52.4mm)?

I wonder if this would work? http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3805&sid=69

The programmable empty level depends on the sender type of the Spyder. Here is what the meter presets are:

Ford Pre-’89, Chrysler = 73 - 10 ohms
Ford ‘89 - Present = 16 - 158 ohms
GM Pre-’65 = 0 - 30 ohms
GM ‘65 - Present = 0 - 90 ohms
Auto Meter Sender = 240 - 33 ohms
Eclipse ‘90 - ‘02 = 107.5 - 7 ohms
Civic ‘01 - Present = 131 -12 ohms
Custom Calibration

Here's an interesting video on how fuel gauges work:

 

[NancysToy]

The connectors on the back of the gauge are typical post type connectors, probably with metric threads. The wiring is in a push-on, combined terminal, which may or may not fit other gauges. The gauges are the typical 2" (2 1/16") I believe, at least, that size gauge fits the hole. Whether or not you could get the sending unit to work with the new digital gauge and not screw up the cluster, is not known. You can be the Guinea pig.

Should be easy enough to measure the resistance of the sending unit and select a setting. Who knows, adding a digital gauge (and disconnecting the temp gauge) may even fool the Spyder into displaying both the new gauge and the digital display. I'm afraid you're on your own here... and there is some risk involved.

BTW, the programmable empty is a neat feature, but it still depends on the height of the float in the tank when empty. If the float is placed well above the bottom, you will not change where the gauge shows fully empty... and will likely still have a fuel reserve left. In addition, the sending unit may still not be linear, in fact, that is unlikely, making the rate of response at one end of the tank different to that at the other. You may gain nothing but a number instead of a needle.

 

[GeoffCee]

For years I've known that the fuel level in the tank was determined by a float but not until watching the Autometer video did I know how that turned into a reading. Thanks Clueless. :clap: