• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Snapped the magnetic oil drain plug!

scorpion56

New member
2019 F3T, 1330 engine.

And it was going so well........

Had all the oil drained and safely off to the side. Not too much of a mess. Put on the new gaskets and o-rings. Installed the new oil filter and then went to re-install the 6 mm drain plug. Over-torqued it and snapped the head off. Ouch. And this was not my first DIY oil change.

Attempting to drill out and replace the plug is not a DIY option for me. The only question I have for all of you, BEFORE I put any fresh oil back into the Spyder is this..... do I just get it towed to the dealer with no oil in it, or put in the oil and see if I have a major leak at the magnetic drain plug. And if things look good, drive it to the dealer. Thanks for your ideas.

UPDATE: What little oil didn't drain out is, unsurprisingly, leaking by the headless bolt. So it's definitely a tow to CanAm. I don't have enough clearance under the bike to attempt a punch and bolt extractor operation.
 
Last edited:
My personal paranoia would have have it trailered to the dealer. But it only costs you the oil to check. So from there your paranoia will take over. Sorry about the mishap:mad: . Good luck with your repairs.
 
Don't torque oil drain plugs. Never torque them in an aluminum case. Torque values are for clean, dry threads. Oil drain plugs are never clean and dry. Lubrication on the threads cause you to over-torque them. Just snug them up with a shorty ratchet. If they drip a little bit, it is much easier to put another quarter turn on them than to try to get a broken plug out. I don't know why they even publish the drain plug torque values.
 
Happened to me on my 998 2013 RT-S. I was able use a punch to tap remaining part loose enough to screw it out. Now use: Show Chrome (998 MOTOR) M14 X 1.5 / M12 X 1.5 MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS
 
Busting in here, this reminded me that even my shop manual did not provide me the torque for the front shock bolts. Can anyone here tell me? 2017 F3L.
 
I beg your pardon. Do a search on broken OEM clutch cover drain plug (see picture) and see what you get for the eight plus years the plug has been in use. The plug isn't cheap and the problem isn't on the plug end.
 

Attachments

  • OEM Clutch Cover Drain Plug.jpg
    OEM Clutch Cover Drain Plug.jpg
    72.3 KB · Views: 51
I beg your pardon. Do a search on broken OEM clutch cover drain plug (see picture) and see what you get for the eight plus years the plug has been in use. The plug isn't cheap and the problem isn't on the plug end.

Thank you , I didn't have the guts to say it .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Busting in here, this reminded me that even my shop manual did not provide me the torque for the front shock bolts. Can anyone here tell me? 2017 F3L.

M10 hexagonal flanged elastic nuts [P3] 48 ± 6  N•m (35 ± 4 lbf•ft)
 
Busting in here, this reminded me that even my shop manual did not provide me the torque for the front shock bolts. Can anyone here tell me? 2017 F3L.

Ric, on my ‘21 RT the shock bolts torque is listed as -

48 +/- 6n*m
35 +/- 4 lbf*ft
(With “NEW” nuts)

I’m not sure if the same holds true on your ‘17 F3 though…..but that info was on the first page of Front Suspension in my workshop manual, in the diagram.

Sorry to hijack your thread Scorpion, but it should be a short hijack;)

Pete
 
Last edited:
The plug isn't cheap and the problem isn't on the plug end.

Thank you , I didn't have the guts to say it .... Mike :thumbup:

Jaybros, you're so right......the problem wasn't on the plug end! At least not in my case.

Unfortunately, I had this happen to me when I did my 1st oil change. Couldn't believe I had actually screwed this up using a small torque wrench. All my years changing oils on my vehicles and never a problem, and here my 1st Oil change on my Spyder, and I break off the Transmission Head plug. UGH!

Thankfully, I have a set of Easy Outs, and that took care of the problem. Just had to order a new plug.
NEVER EVER again will I ever torque those 2 drain plugs.

It only took one time to be taught a valuable lesson. I say, I got pretty lucky. Now after completing 3 oil changes, I am GOOD!

Rick
 
Am glad you got your problem solved. A suggestion, if you're not going to use a torque wrench be certain to change the copper washer on the clutch cover plug and the aluminum one on the crankcase plug each time you do an oil change. That will ensure you get a leakproof seal every time.
 
I beg your pardon. Do a search on broken OEM clutch cover drain plug (see picture) and see what you get for the eight plus years the plug has been in use. The plug isn't cheap and the problem isn't on the plug end.
I'm not sure I understand what the clutch drain plug has to do with the oil drain plug. Can you please explain?
 
I'm not sure I understand what the clutch drain plug has to do with the oil drain plug. Can you please explain?

The 1330 engine has TWO oil drain plugs .. One for the engine, and the other for the transmission .. He may be referring to the plug closest to the Clutch cover ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Yes, if you look at the parts diagrams the plug that many folks refer to as the transmission drain plug is actually in the clutch cover fiche. That fiche is also where one finds the hydraulic control module filter, aka transmission filter.
 
Back
Top