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Safe place for Jack??

Pennyrick

New member
I search for threads but didn't find the answer.

On a recent trip we had to replace both front tires on my wife's 2012 RT when one of the tires broke a belt. They had 16,000 miles on them so it wasn't a major disappointment. We were on the road in the Carolinas and found a dealer that had two Kenda 165/65's in stock so we had them installed. It wasn't the friendliest of dealerships (when I went into the shop area I was told to 'get out' in a fairly forceful manner).

I did talk to the kid who mounted the new tires and I asked him if they were balanced because I didn't see any note on the work order.

"Naw, they didn't need balancing", he said. "They were perfect".

We rode another 400 or so miles to get home and I did't think much about it until I happened to be cleaning my wife's Spyder and noticed the wheel weights on the inside of the front wheels. Then it occurred to me that the kid didn't take off the old wheel weights when he put the new tires on. Both sides still had the original weights stuck in place.

My wife said she noticed a little vibration but was so anxious to get home, she didn't pay much mind to it.

Tomorrow, I plan to take off both of her front wheels and take them to a local tire shop to be properly balanced.

My question is exactly where to I place my hydraulic floor jack? I can get it under the front lip of the Spyder and assume the widest part, about a foot inside the wheel is the strongest place to position the jack. Is my assumption correct or should I be looking someplace else to put the jack in place?
 
JACKING SPYDER

:gaah:...Thankfully you didn't need any really major work done , They didn't impress me with their competency.....To answer your question, I would drive the Spyder up onto two pieces of 2 X 6 first ( for clearance ) than get way down and look underneath.......You MUST PUT THE JACK UNDER THE METAL FRAME ,( in the center ) and the best way is to look. Once you get it up a bit ( it's going to be tippy ) you slide some stacked 2 X 4 's under the "A " arms for balance ( only ). Then you can safely remove the wheels. But just like on a car .....loosen them first .......Mike :thumbup:
 
:gaah:...Thankfully you didn't need any really major work done , They didn't impress me with their competency.....To answer your question, I would drive the Spyder up onto two pieces of 2 X 6 first ( for clearance ) than get way down and look underneath.......You MUST PUT THE JACK UNDER THE METAL FRAME ,( in the center ) and the best way is to look. Once you get it up a bit ( it's going to be tippy ) you slide some stacked 2 X 4 's under the "A " arms for balance ( only ). Then you can safely remove the wheels. But just like on a car .....loosen them first .......Mike :thumbup:


Thanks Mike. I have a 2 x 6 that I can cut in two that will do the job and I can use stands under the A arms.

We were having some other problems with her Spyder that had gone into limp mode twice earlier on the trip. They told me it was the Spyder tech's day off but the kid who did the tires said he knew all about BUDS and tried to hook it up. I got yelled at when I went back into the service area after he had been playing with the BUDS computer for a half hour and didn't have anything on the screen. I just told them to disconnect it and button it up and we would be on our way.

The dealer was Yamaha of Lumberton, NC by the way. Not on my recommended list.
 
Who Was the Dealer?

I search for threads but didn't find the answer.

On a recent trip we had to replace both front tires on my wife's 2012 RT when one of the tires broke a belt. They had 16,000 miles on them so it wasn't a major disappointment. We were on the road in the Carolinas and found a dealer that had two Kenda 165/65's in stock so we had them installed. It wasn't the friendliest of dealerships (when I went into the shop area I was told to 'get out' in a fairly forceful manner).

Since I live in NC less than satisfactory dealer service is important to me, particularly when on the road. Kindly PM me if you'd rather not tell the dealership name on the forum. Thanks much.
 
Disregard My Last!

Since I live in NC less than satisfactory dealer service is important to me, particularly when on the road. Kindly PM me if you'd rather not tell the dealership name on the forum. Thanks much.

Rule #2: read all the posts in the thread, Dumbo!
 
YOU NEED TO GET ONE OF THESE AT HARBOR FREIGHT...
GOT MINE FOR $50 WITH A COUPON...
View attachment 98704
GOOD FOR 1500 LBS...
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-60536.html
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R


I don't intend to do that much work on my Spyder so that would be a waste of money for me.

I did discover that my floor jack that I bought about 25 years ago has a slow leak, so I bought a two ton jack at Wal Mart for $19.95 to get the Spyders up and wheels off. Got the Bridgestones mounted and balanced on mine and got the new Kendas on my wife's machine balanced as well.

Both seem to be running well with no wobbles or vibrations. Got the Bridgestone Potenzas at Tires Plus for $42.95 each and my out the door bill with mounting and balancing four wheels was $122.00.

Dealer wanted $298 for one pair of Kendas mounted and balanced.
 
MIDDLE

I got one of those jacks in my storage building. I bought it for my last bike(Honda 750), but sold the before i took it out the box. I didn't think i could use it for the Spyder, but now i see thanks for the info..:clap:

Bronz;
you can also use this jack to pick it up in the middle... that way all 3 wheels are off the floor... however; it's NOT a really safe thing to do...
dp
 
Hey spyd3r I have a motorcycle jack but can't figure out where a good place to locate it under the spyder to lift it completely off the ground. Looks like in the middle would crush the pipes. I have an RT 2014. Currituck for your feedback.
 
Hey spyd3r I have a motorcycle jack but can't figure out where a good place to locate it under the spyder to lift it completely off the ground. Looks like in the middle would crush the pipes. I have an RT 2014. Currituck for your feedback.

i have an RS and never picked-up an RT with my jack...
the RS pipes do not go below the frame... if the pipes on the RT are lower than the frame, you may want to use a 'spacer' between the frame and jack... maybe a piece of 1" X 6" wood, about 18" long...
NOTE: jack slowly... and make CERTAIN that your SPYD3R is going up evenly... you
DO NOT want to be under an unstable 700 lb. vehicle... :lecturef_smilie: :gaah:
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R
 
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