RTL Drive Belt alignment procedure ???

[canamjhb]

When setting the alignment and tension on a 2014 RTL drive belt, is it appropriate to pull out the speed sensor at the wheel in order to avoid damage to the wires? It is a tight fit to get a wrench on the axel nut to torque it properly and it looks like removing the sensor would make life easier. If the sensor is unscrewed, is it a straight forward unscrew and screw back in? Will nanny object if the sensor is unscrewed and the key turned on to spin the wheel by hand? Or, do you torque the axel on the bolt side. I have all the tools. Just want to make sure I don't muck things up while playing with mechanical stuff. Thanks.

 

[fritzy]

belt adjustment

check out the Aussie on youtube doing the can am belt adjustment,makes it look easy,hope it helps......Fritzy from downunder:thumbup:

 

[safecracker]

His "YouTube" handle is "spyder stuff".

 

[canamjhb]

I've watched his as well as other videos. He make no mention of torqueing the axel. My main concern is getting the nut properly torqued without damaging the speed sensor wires. He does move the sensor wire around pretty good even with his sawed in half wrench. A torque wrench would require MUCH more room. So, I reiterate the questions in my original post. Any advice about the speed sensor and how to torque the axel? Thanks again

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

The hazard with removing the sensor is misplacing any shim that’s installed and screwing up the gap clearance.

So instead, follow the sensor wire back up along the swing arm and you’ll come to a plastic clamp that holds down the sensor wire and brake hose. It’s held down with one screw. Remove the screw and clamp and you’ll get a lot more slack to work with to move the wire out of the way. Also, use a crow’s foot or one of these on the torque wrench rather than trying to fit a whole wrench with socket in there....

http://pitposse.com/po36reaxnutw.html

Remembering to recalculate your torque value if you do, since this wrench or a crow’s foot lengthens the arm length of the torque wrench.

 

[AeroPilot]

Removing the 30 Torx screw and cover on top of the right swingarm tube gives room

By removing the cover over the brake line and sensor cable, as suggested by Snowbelt Spyder, it gives the cables extra room and flex to move out of the way. I can still get the 36 mm crowsfoot and 1/2" drive torque wrench on top of the nut and get the 160 lb-ft of torque while holding backup on the left axle with the other wrench (actually I use the 36 mm socket and 24" breaker bar). Keeping the crowsfoot up and down (vertical) keeps the moment arm the same so the torque wrench settings are accurate without conversion. Just take your time and leaving the sensor intact keeps from losing the shims. :thumbup:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I second what snowbelt says. If you use one of these wrenches you don't have to contend with the tight fit and you can keep your torque wrench where it's easier to use. This one has a 1/2" square hole.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4882-Rea...d=1522558416&sr=8-4&keywords=36mm+axle+wrench


Here's a link on how to calculate the torque when you're using an extension in line with the wrench. https://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

 

[safecracker]

Great info IdahoMtnSpyder. Thank you.

 

[canamjhb]

The hazard with removing the sensor is misplacing any shim that’s installed and screwing up the gap clearance.

So instead, follow the sensor wire back up along the swing arm and you’ll come to a plastic clamp that holds down the sensor wire and brake hose. It’s held down with one screw. Remove the screw and clamp and you’ll get a lot more slack to work with to move the wire out of the way. Also, use a crow’s foot or one of these on the torque wrench rather than trying to fit a whole wrench with socket in there....

http://pitposse.com/po36reaxnutw.html

Remembering to recalculate your torque value if you do, since this wrench or a crow’s foot lengthens the arm length of the torque wrench.

Thank you Snowbelt and others who responded. I loosened the swing arm clamp screw enough to move the clamp out of the way. The sensor wire had lots of play then and did not present any problems when removing/replacing hitch and torqueing axel nut. Easy solution to my worry plagued mind