RT with a trunk

[ulflyer]

Wanted more room for the Springfield trip so I bought an aftermarket trailer hitch ($185) and rack($75). Decided not to use the rack itself as its made of steel and fairly heavy but used the mounting bars and some scrapwood to bolt the plastic trunk ($10) purchased at Walmart. I put some rubber molding around the lid to make it reasonably watertight although any clothes I put in will be in a plastic bag just to make sure. The two latches have provision for a lock or pin to prevent coming open.

After getting it all done, I couldn't clearly see the lic plate so thought it prudent to put it on the trunk. The trunk can easily be removed by pulling a couple of clevis pins so I'm considering drilling the ends of the pins so that small locks can be put on. I plan on leaving it on and trying out various loads and to make sure it holds up well.

 

[cuznjohn]

nice idea

 

[Bob Denman]

:2thumbs:
Though I'd sure try to stay at, or below, BRP's suggested maximum trailer tongue weight of 40 pounds... :clap:

 

[ulflyer]

:2thumbs:
Though I'd sure try to stay at, or below, BRP's suggested maximum trailer tongue weight of 40 pounds... :clap:

Definitly. I'm thinking it will be mostly for bulky jackets and extra warm stuff which shouldn't weight all that much. I do plan on bundling up some of it and weighing it just so I'll know.

 

[spacetiger]

:2thumbs:
Though I'd sure try to stay at, or below, BRP's suggested maximum trailer tongue weight of 40 pounds... :clap:

hmmm, seems like trouble here.

But on a serious note, I'd add a cinch strap around the frame and box to make sure the lid does not come off. Since you are using the factory hitch setup, I'd second the commendation to not stray to far north of 40 lbs.

Let us know how it worked out please.

Jerry

edit: One thing you might consider doing is changing out the 4 bolts on the hitch to the the hardest steel bolts you can get. If you look at the head of the bolts you will see markings; Google the markings and you can find out how hard the bolts are. Your current set up has offset the weight load a bit further aft so it will have a greater leverage arm against the bolts. Also, make sure you have them torqued down to factory specs. Nice work.

 

[edmarino]

You can cut down on the bulky clothes items if you have heated liners . That is what I do, one heated liner equals several sweaters or leather jack etc. Can set heat range with just the turn of a dial.

 

[NancysToy]

hmmm, seems like trouble here.

But on a serious note, I'd add a cinch strap around the frame and box to make sure the lid does not come off. Since you are using the factory hitch setup, I'd second the commendation to not stray to far north of 40 lbs.

Let us know how it worked out please.

Jerry

edit: One thing you might consider doing is changing out the 4 bolts on the hitch to the the hardest steel bolts you can get. If you look at the head of the bolts you will see markings; Google the markings and you can find out how hard the bolts are. Your current set up has offset the weight load a bit further aft so it will have a greater leverage arm against the bolts. Also, make sure you have them torqued down to factory specs. Nice work.

The bolts that hold the yoke to the brackets pass through sleeved rubber bushings that are inserted in urethane bushings. The bushings will give out long before the bolts ever dream of doing so. The weight is distributed from the brackets to the swingarm, so the bolts and bushings would not be stressed unless the brackets or swingarm failed. There should be no need to replace the bolts with higher rated ones.

 

[DJFaninTN]

i've had the same idea and trying to figure out exactly how I wanted to accomplish this.

the one thing that I would add is a mud flap.

 

[DR Buck]

Nice idea. You might consider some sort of heat shield on the corner near the muffler. On a long trip you could end up melting the box. Don't ask me how I know. nojoke

 

[ulflyer]

You can cut down on the bulky clothes items if you have heated liners . That is what I do, one heated liner equals several sweaters or leather jack etc. Can set heat range with just the turn of a dial.

Ed, I use the Gerbing liner and gloves with a jacket on top; however, if the wx is warm, that stuff has to be stored. Also, my daughter is meeting me in MO and we plan on touring a few days on way back to NC, so will need space for her clothes as well. Otherwise, I wouldn't' have considered attaching a box.

 

[ulflyer]

Nice idea. You might consider some sort of heat shield on the corner near the muffler. On a long trip you could end up melting the box. Don't ask me how I know. nojoke

Excellent idea; hadn't even thought of that. What sort of shield might I use as it would need to be glued to the box and where does one find it?

This looks like it might work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO-Grade-R...SULATION-/131077021729?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

 

[Shewhoprays]

Wish I still had my photos of mine but maybe I can get my hubby to upload more. He went to Harbor Freight and bought a cargo carrier. Changed out the adaptor to accept the carrier or my other small trailer on wheels. The cargo carrier is just like the one that you see behind mini vans, RVs, etc. We used it this last summer while on vacation. It is open though. I put a tub on it, cooler, or whatever. and put a net over it with clips that attach to the side. But you do have to be careful of the overall weight. I don't even know it is back there and it doesn't lower the gas mileage like the trailer does.

 

[Bob Denman]

i've had the same idea and trying to figure out exactly how I wanted to accomplish this.

the one thing that I would add is a mud flap.

BMW Larry came up with this one...

 

[ulflyer]

i've had the same idea and trying to figure out exactly how I wanted to accomplish this.

the one thing that I would add is a mud flap.

I made a mud flap out of a large piece of thick leather I happen to have. With the white bike, I noticed a lot of road dirt all over the back that I didn't notice on the red one I had before.