RT-S SE5 Question for new rider

[lotecredneck]

My wife has been wanting a Spyder for some time. I have found a '13 RT-S SE5 with 5,500 miles that I can buy for about $9k. I know there are significant differences from the 998 to the triple, but not sure if it's worth the difference considering she may or may not ride it.

I am a motorcycle person and have several, but she has wanted one of these since they came out. She took the motorcycle training course here in Texas and received her license. I got her a bike to ride when we lived out of the town center, but she never really gained the confidence on it to ride in traffic and then the bike was stolen. After that she never really pushed to get another.

Fast forward to now and she is thinking she would like to try one of these. We were motorcycle dealers and enjoyed riding together, but always with her on the back. Ironically, I had just signed up to be a Can-Am dealer and was beginning to receive my initial order of product when the opportunity to sell my last store came along in 2017 so she never got to ride one of the units we received.

Back to the main question, I have read the FAQ's and see where the 998 is a rev-happy motor. I guess I'm trying to determine if this model would be a good fit to learn on and if not, would I be able to recapture most of the money selling it. The Spyder I am looking at is extremely clean, but it is a 7-8 year old vehicle. I just hate to buy a $15k Spyder only to have it become a garage ornament! I am not sure she would ever know the difference between the 998 and the 1330 since she has no real seat time on a motorcycle other than as a passenger and with the auto transmission, my thoughts are either should be fairly easy to ride.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks,

~Tony

 

[larryd]

Have you looked at a NEW Ryker??? You could purchase a new one with a warranty for the same price as the 13...Or maybe look for a 2008 or 2009 GS SE, they were almost a trouble free machine and they are usually priced less than the 13 your looking at...Hope she learns to enjoy the ride...larryd

 

[JayBros]

The first question you MUST ask the seller or selling dealership is if the '13RT has has the modifications made to it to prevent it from possibly becoming a rolling fireball. Second, you are considering purchasing an eight year old low mileage Spyder that will have eight year old components that will be very subject to dry rot/failure, starting with all three sneakers and getting more complicated as you get closer to the guts of the vehicle. Third, yes, the 998 V-twin motor likes to rev and is very happy doing so. Whether or not your wife will enjoy learning to operate the machine depends on how comfortable she is buzzing the engine. This is important because the centrifugal clutch in the SE5 engine requires the higher revs to keep the clutch fully locked up. Prolonged lugging the engine may result in premature clutch wear/destruction.

For the above reasons I recommend you consider a MY '14 RT SE6 with the 1330 ACE three cylinder engine. Yes, you will pay more up front but the 1330 engine is vastly superior to the V-Twin engine in many respects; and you will not lose as much on resale of a 1330 engine Spyder if your wife subsequently does not fall in love with it. JMO.

 

[Possible]

It is definitely worth your time to let her see which model she would prefer: a Ryker or a Spyder. Peggy didn't care for the looks
and riding position of the Ryker so we bought a Spyder for her. The Ryker is smaller and may feel less intimidating than the Spyder.

As far as the 998 being rev-happy. That just depends on how you look at it. If you're used to modern Japanese motorcycles, it
certainly doesn't really rev that high, the redline is only 9000 rpm. The main consideration is the engine needs to be kept above
4000-4500 rpm so the clutch fully engages. Not that big of a deal unless she is used to lugging the engine.

If she doesn't care for the Ryker, I would certainly look at used rather than new considering the risk.

 

[BeRight]

I'd second New/used Ryker - lower $ entry - popular - easier to mod/work on - fully auto - faster learning curve - twist and go and single foot brake.

or used 2015 F3 KBB $11K.

 

[Eviltwin]

Ryker is a completely different bike than an RT. It is cheaper for sure, probably about the same price as a used RT. Best thing to do would be to go to whatever dealer is nearest and sample both. I found that the Ryker felt way too small and had minimal storage, but that was coming from quite a few miles already on an RT. She may feel different. I just didn't think much of it, and keep in mind that the Spyders are way more expensive new then Rykers, so you are getting more bike for the dollar, even it if is older.

Nothing wrong with an older bike. The 2 cyl is rev happy but also very thirsty compared to the 3. But if you are only buying for pleasure riding and not long tours, it may not make that much difference. As for keeping it long term, if you find one used in good shape for a good price, you should be able to move it along with not that much more depreciation if she doesn't like it. An 8 year old bike is way farther down the curve than a 1-2 yo bike or a new bike. Higher maintenance costs but that may be offset if you do them yourself. I do my own work as lots of other folks on the board do as well.

 

[ARtraveler]

All very good advice above. I will add:

REVS: A difference between 998 (2 cyl) and 1330 (3 cyl) is operating revs. The 998 likes 5500 rpms and up, the 1330 likes 3500 rpms and up. The 998 is a bit noisier because of the higher revs. With 5 gears, you will only use fifth gear at 55 mph or up. The 1330 is quieter and 3500 will give you 55 mph in fifth. Sixth is usually used for 60 and over.

Maintenance: More maintenance required on 998. Oil changes at 4500 miles. Recommended valve jobs at every 14,000 miles (but most do not do them). If you do, that is 1000.00.:gaah:

1330 gets oil changes every 9,500 miles or once a year. No valve jobs.

I have had both models (actually 4 separate 998's) and now have two 1330's. I like the 1330's better.

I do think it is important for the spouse to test drive both flavors. You can buy a 2014 1330 for around $12,000 - $10,000 depending on who, where, when.

Thank you Possible and Pegasus for the oil change mileage correction on the 998. It's been over a year since I traded off the last 998. Memory must not be as good as it used to. :bowdown:

 

[Possible]

Peggy's 2013 STS-SM5 specifies oil changes at 4600 mile intervals, not 3500 miles.

 

[pegasus1300]

Current oil change recommendations from BRP on 998 VTwins is 4600 miles.
1) don't worry about the revs. Just keep it over 4000 and she'll be fine. Easy to ride as she won't be shifting as much.
2) You've been a dealer so you already know about attendant problems you may or may not have with an older low mileage machine.
3) Again you've been a dealer you know that the longer it takes to get over the emotional involvement with a purchase the less you are going to get on a sale.
I like the 998 RT, I have one. I think the extra body work of the RT may give your wife more confidence then the barebones Ryker. But she needs to at least sit on both to decide.
There is also a big difference between new and almost new but old. Choose wisely!

 

[larryd]

Here is a quick read on the 13 RT problems...

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?110429-13-RT-recall

 

[ARtraveler]

Peggy's 2013 STS-SM5 specifies oil changes at 4600 mile intervals, not 3500 miles.

Edited: Thank you. :bowdown:

 

[ARtraveler]

Current oil change recommendations from BRP on 998 VTwins is 4600 miles.
1) don't worry about the revs. Just keep it over 4000 and she'll be fine. Easy to ride as she won't be shifting as much.
2) You' be been a dealer so you all ready know about attendant problems you may or may not have with an older low mileage machine.
3) Again you've been a dealer you know that the longer it takes to get over the emotional involvement with a purchase the less you are going to get a sale.
I like the 998 RT, I have one. I think the extra body work of the RT may give your wife more confidence then the barebones Ryker. But she needs to at least sit on both to decide.
There is also a big difference between new and almost new but old. Choose wisely!

Edited: Thank you. :bowdown:

 

[davev1pa]

I have both....2012 /2014 RTL RTS. Bought 12 in march and 14 in Sept. both for around 10k. 12 with 3k miles and 14 with 30k. I'd ride either ..Throttle response a bit better with 2012 but really no significant ride difference to me (2014 has sway bar which is nice) As far as upkeep the 2014 will be a bit less with interval oil changes but the other components tires brakes battery the same. We have put 12k on the 12 and love it. The 2014 we have 2-3 k on it . Really got lucky with both vehicles..riding is now effortless. Fuel mileage is 5-6 mpg better with 2014 but who really cares in the end. We generally fill up on the way back home as I want to be ready to go at a moments notice....The thing for me is the safety and reliability ...I've read lots of negatives and worry on a long trip if we might get hosed in some remote area...but we have two so there's that safety factor...That's a good price ...the 2013's had a frame change that led to heat issues...all resolved by BRP/dealers with air scoops and some hose changes...the 13's are fine overall. I looked at one with 4k for 12500 but held off for a 14..But it didn;t scare me..Good luck

 

[Doc McCoy]

Never mind lol read the post wrong so my comment doesn't apply

 

[Possible]

The rpms advice doesn't make sense to me at all. Now I am not saying it's wrong. i have a 2020 rt limited. To run at or near 4000 rpms would mean since my bike has to do 45 mph in 1st gear to get to 4000 rpms that in my town with lots of 35 and 45 mph roads I should never shift out of first. Even in 5th gear on the freeway I am only doing 3700/4000 rpms. Now maybe it's because I don't ever go over 10 mph over the speed limit I don't know. I guess if that means that I will blow or ruin a clutch then I guess I will. If I have to be above 4000 rpms to have the clutch fully engaged then I will definately be buying a new clutch soon or maybe a new bike

Without knowing what engine you have, it's impossible to say whether you're correct. You do realize this thread is referring to the V-twin, not the triple.
I've ridden Peggy's 2013 STS-SM5, and I don't remember having any issues keeping the RPM at or over 4000. Seems to me that running freeway
speeds, i.e. 70-75 mph, the RPM are over 5000.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The rpms advice doesn't make sense to me at all. Now I am not saying it's wrong. i have a 2020 rt limited. To run at or near 4000 rpms would mean since my bike has to do 45 mph in 1st gear to get to 4000 rpms that in my town with lots of 35 and 45 mph roads I should never shift out of first. Even in 5th gear on the freeway I am only doing 3700/4000 rpms. Now maybe it's because I don't ever go over 10 mph over the speed limit I don't know. I guess if that means that I will blow or ruin a clutch then I guess I will. If I have to be above 4000 rpms to have the clutch fully engaged then I will definately be buying a new clutch soon or maybe a new bike

The 4000 rpm thing doesn't apply to you/your machine at all Doc - the 2020 Spyders ALL have 1330 cc low revving triples - the 4000 rpm referred to applies ONLY to the V--twins that were in the 2013 & earlier RT's & the 2015 & earlier GS/RS/RSS/ST's, and MOSTLY to the SE5 versions of those machines at that. :thumbup:

Still,