• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

RT-S Limp Home!

I am not sure how a diagnostic shows actual lugging, unless by that they mean rpm below the idle setting...or knock sensors going off. The DPS warning indicates something more than mere low rpm excursions under load, though. I would not trust it for a trip, no matter how disappointing. Meanwhile, here are a couple of other things to consider:

1. I had trouble with spark plug fouling. It will make the Spyder start poorly and idle poorly...or even stall. It could also cause "lugging" and poor performance. Pays to check or replace.

2. Be sure you are running the recommended premium fuel. If the knock sensors cut back the timing to compensate for a lower grade fuel, I suppose it could be interpreted by the diagnostics (or the tech) as "lugging".

Let us know how you make out.

Hey Scotty, I only use the highest grade gas at the pumps. I can rule that out but the spark plug thing sounds like that could be a definite possibility. I'll be sure and suggest they check that out. Thanks for the advice!
 
Newbie Question Alert:


Lugging - what is lugging, exactly?

My guess - situation where the engine rpm drops too low for the gear it is in to maintain adequate power???:dontknow:
 
Newbie Question Alert:


Lugging - what is lugging, exactly?

My guess - situation where the engine rpm drops too low for the gear it is in to maintain adequate power???:dontknow:
The best explanation I can give is, the bike feels like it is having to pull hard to maintain the cruising speed it's at, that when you throttle up, for a second or two, it's a slipping, almost grinding feeling to get back to that same cruising speed again. Sorry I don't know how else to describe it.
 
The lugging thing interests me. Although I'm pretty sure "lugging it ":D isn't my problem, if there is an actual fault for that, it will sure as heck show up after the problem began. Once it went to limp mode if you tried to exceed the limit rpm in any gear it would start bucking, enough so I had to back off the throttle some and then slowly bring it back up to speed. The bucking was kinda like what you would have when you shifted your "3 on the tree" from low to hi without using 2nd. OK, if you understand that your at least as old as I am.:clap: May be some time before I can get it out to ride, we're in a Severe Winter Storm Warning until Monday evening. Anyway, keep up with the ideas, it all helps.

Guess I'll go out and try Mode - Set - Turnsignal and see if anything shows up.

Thanks all
Dwight
 
I edited my post above.

If you want to read the code to give to your dealer before you go do this.

Hold down the "mode" and "set" button
While holding down the "mode" and "set" button push in the turn signal button. Screen will be blank if there is no code.
 
One of the guys I rode with today came over to my bike and said he could smell gas and sure enough, I did too. He thought it might be some kind of converter? I'm starting to think the suggestion to have the dealership check for a bad plug might be a good one too. Anyone else with an opinion on the smell of gas and cause?
 
One of the guys I rode with today came over to my bike and said he could smell gas and sure enough, I did too. He thought it might be some kind of converter? I'm starting to think the suggestion to have the dealership check for a bad plug might be a good one too. Anyone else with an opinion on the smell of gas and cause?
Lots of possibilities...overfilled gas tank; spilled fuel when filling; bad plug, wire or coil; bad purge valve; fuel line leak (dangerous!); or "just because" as on the early GS models. I suggest you see your dealer ASAP, or at least tear off the body panels to inspect the fuel lines and try to isolate the source.
 
Lots of possibilities...overfilled gas tank; spilled fuel when filling; bad plug, wire or coil; bad purge valve; fuel line leak (dangerous!); or "just because" as on the early GS models. I suggest you see your dealer ASAP, or at least tear off the body panels to inspect the fuel lines and try to isolate the source.
Over filled gas tank and spilled fuel can be ruled out. I guess all of the others could be a possibility. Thanks again Scotty
 
Strong Gas Smell

Gas cap is not on or loose, or It will throw a code like a car.

How many miles does your Spyder have on it?
If a lot of miles. Has the air filter been changed?

An air filter that is really dirty, pretty much clogged up will cause a strong gas smell and a rich condition, the bike will not run have full power.

Westgl
 
Gas cap is not on or loose, or It will throw a code like a car.

How many miles does your Spyder have on it?
If a lot of miles. Has the air filter been changed?

An air filter that is really dirty, pretty much clogged up will cause a strong gas smell and a rich condition, the bike will not run have full power.

Westgl

Bike has 1500 miles on it, Gas cap tightens down well. Air filter, I would think, shouldn't be clogged up yet. Still, thanks for suggestions.
 
One of the guys I rode with today came over to my bike and said he could smell gas and sure enough, I did too. He thought it might be some kind of converter? I'm starting to think the suggestion to have the dealership check for a bad plug might be a good one too. Anyone else with an opinion on the smell of gas and cause?

Probably coming from the vent hose on your vapor canister. Could be software related due to purge valve not opening soon enough. It's believed this was also a problem on GS/RS models which had fuel smells.
 
Sounds like they might have found the problem. I took it in for the 600 service on the 27th. They were working on it before I left which kinda surprised me. I forgot to have them adjust the front shocks so I called them about 3:30 to add it to the list. The service guy said they thought they had already found the limp mode problem. He said it was a sensor (Lean Angle?) that wasn't working or wasn't working right. Whichever one it was is an expensive part and he said they would have to contact BRP. I don't expect that to be a problem but they may have to keep it a little longer. I did ride it down there and didn't have any problems but it will sure feel better riding if they actually find and fix it. I should know more this week, he said he would call me as soon as they found out for sure. Of course the weather is supposed to be much better this week!

Dwight
 
Wheeler , did you get it looked at? Are you headed back to the dealer that sold it to you out of state or asking a local dealer to do the work? Would be a long haul to run back and forth to selling dealer but wondering if the local dealer that didn't get the sale is being accommodating? :dontknow:
 
Wheeler , did you get it looked at? Are you headed back to the dealer that sold it to you out of state or asking a local dealer to do the work? Would be a long haul to run back and forth to selling dealer but wondering if the local dealer that didn't get the sale is being accommodating? :dontknow:
No Widowmaker, I haven't had it looked at yet but went to Bike Week in Daytona today and to the Spyder tent at Daytona Speedway and met Lamont. He said there would be a BRP rep there Thursday who would be able to look at and possibly know a fix for my dash error messages. If he's unable to fix the problem I have an appt with Deland Motor Sports who will do an in depth search. They have been great. They did my 600 mile service. They are still a ways away from Orlando but worth the drive. I'll let you know how Thursday goes. Got my fingers crossed.
 
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I'm wondering, has anyone tried to force the computer to reboot?
Disconnect the battery for a half hour or so and then reconnect it.
Just a suggestion. Any thoughts?
 
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