RT neg. battery terminal problem

[frank3]

Well----think I might need some help here. Purchased a battery tender for the RT and it came with a set of pigtails for quick hook up and disconnect. Raised seat and "attempted" to loosen the bolt on the neg. terminal and found the bolt would not loosed. Turned bolt head several turns and believe there is a lock nut under the frame member that the terminal is bolted to. Can't see an easy way to access the nut and am at a loss. Looked at the pos. terminal and think it may be the same arrangement. Am I out of luck and will just have to use the clamps each time I want to use the battery tender. I would bet Lamont or some one has already attempted this and may have an answer.:gaah:

 

[the nicko]

take picture of the problem

easy with picture :yikes:

 

[NancysToy]

This is also a problem with the RS. What you need to do is remove the battery access panel and go to the actual battery terminals. This is easier than the RS, as Lamonster has described. The jumper terminals under the seat are not really suitable, for the reason you have discovered. I don't know if you can get to the nuts on the jumper terminals to retighten the bolts you loosened from here, but theey should be tightened if you can. In the meantime, you can charge through the 12V outlet in the rear trunk, with the proper adapter. This is hot all the time, unlike the optional accessory outlet for the RS.

 

[frank3]

Scotty, thanks a bunch for the info. Still not sure how to access the nut but I think if I remove some of the right side pannels, I can reach up there far enough to put an open end on it. I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

[rupbre]

Whatever you do, make sure you tighten it back up. I did the same thing to mine...turn, turn, turn. I did not go back and tighten it up as I couldn't figure out how to get to the nut. Eventually it led to a short. Some times I couldn't start the spyder until I figured out I had created this problem by loosening that screw. I just use aligator clips to tender the battery.

 

[frank3]

rupbre, How did you manage to hold the nut in order to retighten it? Did you do it or take it to your dealer? I think I can do it if I can manage to remove the center right pannel.

 

[rupbre]

The dealer did it. I'm only a few miles away from them. I do believe you are correct on how to fix it thou. Sorry I can't be more help.

 

[Questions]

I found this problem just a week ago. Tried to loosen the ground for almost 10 minutes. The only way I found to tighten it was to lift up on the connectors with a flat head screw driver and used my electric drill on the bolt. There was enough friction at that speed to tighten the bolt back up. Be careful not to pop the head off the bolt.

An FYI, all the ground terminals throughout the bike appear to be the same. Tried 2 grounds toward the front with the same result.

 

[frank3]

FIXED

Great advise from everyone. This is why I really love this forum. There's always someone out there who can help, no mater what the problem. I managed to retighten the bolt using a 7/17" open end wrench (nut was probably 12mm head). Heated the end wrench up to yellow and bent it to about 100 deg., opened the cover on the fuses under the seat to allow a little more room, placed the bent end wrench under the frame member and pressed it toward the nut using my socket, tightened it right up. Necessity is the TRUE mother of invention. I looked at all the work Lamont went to to remove the center panel on the left side and decided that I need another way. Looking at all the possible things that I could break removing the pannel scared me. I'm not nearly as tallented as Lamont OR Scotty. These guys have my respect. Thanks again everyone.:2thumbs: