• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Rt exrta watts

rocketcarwash

New member
Thinking of an rt.does any one know how many extra watts are available for power.i use heated gear,with liner and pants 130 watts max total my wife also has a set.any ideas.thanks joe
 
watts

Can not tell a number but can tell you my wife has the Gerbing pants,gloves ,socks ,and jacket liner, I wondered this same thing coming from her 1800 Wing Trike, I immediatley installed a Kuryakin LED voltage meter even in 20deg. weather she has never seen less than 1 green light which is 13volts verified with multimeter , she has 25,000mi. now with no issues,and the Gerbing will get used again in a month we leave Southeast Texas for Alaska, if anyone sees a black RTS and a black Venture pulling a Bunkhouse on the Alcan please stop and say hello.
 
A little electrical 101....

Roger and Lamonster are correct (duhhhh) from measurments and calcs I've looked at. Available power (we'll say watts) is directly related to the watts currently being drawn. The bike can kick out 650 nominally. You CAN draw above that till you start popping fuses. BTW, at 12volts, 650 watts is about 54 amps and that's a lot of current. IF you do go above 650 and don't blow a fuse, you'll simply draw the battery down since the alternator won't keep up with the draw.

Think of it like this: the battery is a bucket that is full. If we put a valve in the bottom and start draining the water from the bucket, we're fine as long as we have a hose that's refilling the bucket at the rate we're flowing out of the valve at the bottom.

Anyway... if you turn off the fogs and wait until the battery is fully recharged after a start (which DOES get power temporarily allocated to that job), there's a high probability that you're fine.
 
Roger and Lamonster are correct (duhhhh) from measurments and calcs I've looked at. Available power (we'll say watts) is directly related to the watts currently being drawn. The bike can kick out 650 nominally. You CAN draw above that till you start popping fuses. BTW, at 12volts, 650 watts is about 54 amps and that's a lot of current. IF you do go above 650 and don't blow a fuse, you'll simply draw the battery down since the alternator won't keep up with the draw.

Think of it like this: the battery is a bucket that is full. If we put a valve in the bottom and start draining the water from the bucket, we're fine as long as we have a hose that's refilling the bucket at the rate we're flowing out of the valve at the bottom.

Anyway... if you turn off the fogs and wait until the battery is fully recharged after a start (which DOES get power temporarily allocated to that job), there's a high probability that you're fine.
:agree: I also recommend turning off the heated gear and heated grips during extended stop-and-go traffic.
 
While I generally trust everyone's opinion her, I would still feel more comfortable with hard numbers.

I applaud this effort.

<================Watching avidly


I've cooked up this little test to see if I can find what the overhead of the Spyder's system really is.

My test set up is on the attached doc.
I don't have an ammeter that I trust in this situation so I'm using a precision high wattage resistor and an NBS traceable Voltmeter to get the voltage across it.

I'm guessing even a 1 Ohm resistor would cause too much of a voltage drop when trying to start so I plan on putting a diode isolated battery to circumvent this problem.

Depending on any input here, what's on the History channel and Gloria's HoneyDo list I should be able to get to this in a day or so.

Any technical input would be appreciated.
 
Okay.

I talked to some competent EEs (unlike Yours Truly who spent most of my career sitting in an office honing my all-knowing look so as to instruct others to handle the details).

The very best most accurate way to do this is to pull the 60A fuse on the Magneto and replace the battery with a big expensive Voltage & Current source.

I'm not about to do that.

I think now I can give some ballpark numbers that are based on some fairly big assumptions.
1. The Magneto output remains constant at idle (not true, really)

2. The foglights are about 70 watts. This was used to interpolate the numbers.

3. I wouldn't bet the farm on the exactness of the numbers but the relative value is probably not too bad.

4. There was a considerable amount of variance in the readings so these are averaged from observed highs & lows.





BEGIN TEST KEY OFF
.028 A. 0.34 W.
KEY ON PURGE PUMP
4.0 A. 48 W.
KEY ON MODE SWITCH
2.5 A. 30 W.
BRAKE APPLIED
2.75 A. 33 W.
ENGINE STARTED
-- --

ENGINE RUNNING/LIGHTS
10 A. 120 W.
ENGINE RUNNING FOGS
17 A. 204 W.
ENGINE RUNNING F.GRIPS
15 A. 180 W.
ENGINE RUNNING R.GRIPS
13 A. 156 W.
I can tell you that when I watch my volt gauge and I turn on the foglights my volts will drop 1/2 to a full volt while running at rpm. When I turn on the driver grip it may drop .2 volts at first but will come back pretty quick.
When I run the twisties I can really see the draw on the battery from the dps.
 
I also noticed the VSS pump (whatever that is) is fused for 40A.
I think the headroom is less and less.
VSS is the Vehicle Stability System. The VCM is the Vehicle Control Module. The VCM pump provides pressure to the brakes to control the steering line as part of the Vehicle Control System through the VCM valves, which also draw juice on a 25 A fuse. The Transmission Control Module also has solenoid valves, for the SE5.
 
650 is not a lot, but my BMW R1100RTP is only 700, and that has a high output alternator, compared to the street version. The RTP had two batteries, though. The newest RT only has 720 watts and the LT is 840 watts, so the Spyder is not so far behind the rest of the touring machines. The Goldwing may well be overkill. Still, two full sets of heated gear, foglights, plus a DPS and the VCM, makes for a lot of electrical load. A couple hundred more watts would let us worry less.
 
This is shooting from the hip without any research or proof whatsoever -
I'll bet the Spyder uses a much larger percentage of total output as overhead than the Beamers or any other competition.

Since it's not really practical to get much more out of a magneto system BRP would be wise to go to an alternator. If heat is a problem then water cool it.
I'm sure you are right. The DPS load is not present on the others.
 
I also noticed the VSS pump (whatever that is) is fused for 40A.
I think the headroom is less and less.

Does the VSS pump work while idling?

The VSS pump rarely draws any current because it only runs if you're going into a spin, or if there's an impending wheel lockup when applying the brakes.....much like the ABS and stability systems on todays cars.
The DPS doesn't draw any current either, as long as the handlebars are in the straight ahead position.;)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top