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RPM guage

spyder3

New member
My RPM gauge stopped working today. First the needle stayed at zero, then started to work within 1500 RPM's of the digital reading. It was so damn hot i didn't want to stop and restart on the road. When i got home, i shut it down and restarted it and gave it some throttle and it seemed to be working. Spyder gremlin or something else? :dontknow:Bike ran great in the heat which at one point was reading 102. 4-5 bars steady.
 
Time for a new gauge cluster. I am on #4, for the same reason. Be sure to record your mileage when you take it in, or take a dated pic. The new cluster will read zero.
 
Time for a new gauge cluster. I am on #4, for the same reason. Be sure to record your mileage when you take it in, or take a dated pic. The new cluster will read zero.

Even if it starts working again scotty? Or is it going to take a powder anytime now? Thanks as usual.:bowdown:
 
Even if it starts working again scotty? Or is it going to take a powder anytime now? Thanks as usual.:bowdown:
My first one worked intermittently. It got worse and worse, until finally it seldom worked at all. It doesn't seem to affect anything else. If you don't use it, you may not want to worry about it. I use mine, so I needed to address it.
 
My first one worked intermittently. It got worse and worse, until finally it seldom worked at all. It doesn't seem to affect anything else. If you don't use it, you may not want to worry about it. I use mine, so I needed to address it.


ok, thanks!!
 
mine went bad for the same thing when they replaced the cluster turns out that on the 2011 the needle is longer then the new ones it was scratching the face plate btw the 1 and 2 and then sticking havent had another problem since then also when they do relace the cluster make sure they recal your suspension i had to get proof of this from lamont and then i got my dealer to do the proper research on how to cal this brp has this fix on the website for dealers to search.otherwise the ind on the comp screen will just say manual and notgive a ind where you have it set at.
 
mine went bad for the same thing when they replaced the cluster turns out that on the 2011 the needle is longer then the new ones it was scratching the face plate btw the 1 and 2 and then sticking havent had another problem since then also when they do relace the cluster make sure they recal your suspension i had to get proof of this from lamont and then i got my dealer to do the proper research on how to cal this brp has this fix on the website for dealers to search.otherwise the ind on the comp screen will just say manual and notgive a ind where you have it set at.


Yup, went out and looked at it and the face plate is scratched between 1 & 2500k rpms. Its def. shot, worked when i started riding today, then took a powder. I talked to dealer and i'll drop it off when i can leave it for them to diagnose. :dontknow:
 
Yup, went out and looked at it and the face plate is scratched between 1 & 2500k rpms. Its def. shot, worked when i started riding today, then took a powder. I talked to dealer and i'll drop it off when i can leave it for them to diagnose. :dontknow:


What does took a powder mean ????
 
Time for a new gauge cluster. I am on #4, for the same reason. Be sure to record your mileage when you take it in, or take a dated pic. The new cluster will read zero.

I can't believe the mileage is not programable on the cluster. I had a cluster replaced in my 2004 ahonda CRV and original mileage was programmed into the new cluster.
 
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