Replaced Tires, got Codes C006C, U0416, & C003A plus Limp Home Mode - Help?

[tntnj]

I replaced the front tires, 165/60R15 on my 2021 RT base. On the rear is a Yokohama 205/65R15, and now I've got 3 codes and Limp Home Mode. The transmission does not down shift also. Codes are:

C006C
U0416
C003A

I have a feeling it is the front tires. But the only difference is the width 55 to a 60.
I saw someone else had the same problem with the same codes, but it was his rear ABS sensor, and I did not touch the brakes.

I tried 3500 rpm in third, did not work.

 

[DGoebel]

OK, so the 55 or 60 isn't the width, it's the sidewall height in relation to the 165 width. You went to a tire size that is recommended by many past Ryders, so that shouldn't be the cause. Have you tried disconnecting the battery completely, waiting a while, then reconnecting?

 

[K80Shooter]

How far did you ride the bike after the tire swap? Might want to ride it a few miles to see if they go away. Unhooking the battery as mentioned is always a good start.

Those are VSS and Communications codes, was the bike run in gear while in the air?
Check everything electrical on the front & rear wheel really good if they still show after riding.

 

[BajaRon]

If you are sure of your tire sizes, it isn't the tires. Are you certain that the tone ring sensor was not damaged or altered?

 

[tntnj]

I have not disconnected the battery, but I will do that today. What worries me it the bike is not down shifting...
Thank you DGoble and K80shooter, only the front tires were lifted. the rear tire never was moved.

I rode the bike yesterday about 40 miles, no problems. Today I used it for a ride to my dentist (about 10 miles) and parked it outside for an hour and then when I was about a half a mile past my house, I got the limp mode. I went to Costco did the walk away, then I tried the 3500 rpm at third gear.

My battery is from 3/2021 - I did order a new battery today.

BajaRon, I did not touch anything. I took the tires off, got them mounted and balanced, then put them back on. I did check the brake pads for wear but did not check or touch anything. I did order brake pads from you but did not install them.

 

[BajaRon]

Baja Ron I did not touch anything. I took the tires off, got them mounted and balanced, then put them back on. I did check the brake pads for wear but did not check or touch anything. I did order brake pads from you but did not install them.

We have had customers bend or otherwise damage the tone ring sensor without realizing it during a rear tire change. That's why I asked. We've also had customers install a tire that they thought was the correct size but discovered it was not after checking the dimensions on the sidewall. Longshots, but still possibilities. Also, you can damage the shifting bracket that hangs down when jacking if you are not careful. It doesn't take much to give shifting fits. I hope you can discover the issue quickly. Testing a battery is cheaper than swapping it out. But that is also a good place to look on this one.

 

[tntnj]

I checked the battery with an analyzer and the battery shows 12.98 fully charged. I've got a new one coming on Tuesday.

 

[BajaRon]

I checked the battery with an analyzer and the battery shows 12.98 fully charged. I've got a new one coming on Tuesday.

The way to check your battery is with a multimeter while cranking the engine. If it falls anywhere near or below 11v, then this could be your issue. 12.98 volts is a good static reading, though it could still be a bad battery. Swapping out to a new battery and having the same problem is an expensive way to go.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The way to check your battery is with a multimeter while cranking the engine. If it falls anywhere near or below 11v, then this could be your issue. 12.98 volts is a good reading, though it could still be a bad battery. Swapping out to a new battery and having the same problem is an expensive way to go.

I've gotta agree that swapping out the battery without load testing it first could be an expensive 'failure to resolve the problem', but I hafta say that I've found with MANY Spyders now, if your battery voltage ever drops below 12 volts while it's actually cranking/being load tested, then it's not going to be up to supplying ALL the Spyder's power needs during use at some stage, and the sort of 'cascading errors' that've been reported here can occur when you least expect them - or want them!! :lecturef_smilie:

That aside, as others have said already, this 'Limp Home Mode' & series of Codes is definitely NOT due to the tires per se, even if it might be due to something else that occurred while changing the tires. But there are hundreds if not thousands of Spyders out there right now running the same tires &/or the same size tires without any issues; so while it might be coincidental that these Codes & Limp Home Mode popped up at the same time, the actual cause of those occurring is not the tires!

Have you checked all the earth connections on the frame?? I spent a while concerned about symptoms that suggested a failed or failing DPS that all ended up being due to a poorly connected terminal lug on the earth point to the frame behind the battery/in the steering gear tunnel, only accessible by removing the LH Front wheel... :sour: Strange things like that can happen, especially on these extremely power hungry & sensitive Spyders! nojoke

 

[mbranscum]

If the battery is 2021 it’s time to change the battery anyway.

 

[tntnj]

The battery was going to get changed out anyway, I was supposed to travel to Tail of the Dragon on Sept 8; I did not want to chance a battery problem.
If I did not start the bike in a week the starter was slow starting.
The battery 12.98 volts was taken off the maintainer, that showed a green light (fully charged)
The Battery shows 11.45 when starting the bike.

What bothers me is the bike is not down shifting; if I stop in third gear, it stays in third gear.

Peter, I will check the grounds.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

The battery was going to get changed out anyway, I was supposed to travel to Tail of the Dragon on Sept 8; I did not want to chance a battery problem.
If I did not start the bike in a week the starter was slow starting.
The battery 12.98 volts was taken off the maintainer, that showed a green light (fully charged)
The Battery shows 11.45 when starting the bike.

What bothers me is the bike is not down shifting; if I stop in third gear, it stays in third gear.

Peter, I will check the grounds.

Based on your codes, it is a failure of the rear speed sensor. Rear speed sensor failure, vehicle speed implausible, VCM error. Nothing to do with your tires (you went 40 miles ok), nor whatever this 3rd gear 3500 thing is. Have you looked at it? See if it came loose and follow the wire harness from the sensor back to the plug and ensure it's still plugged in. Make sure there is a visible gap between the sensor and the pickup wheel. Doesn't matter whether or not you did any work back there, you could have received damage some other way.

 

[tntnj]

The rear brake sensor wire is covered by a plastic cover on the rear swing arm. Is the connection under that plastic cover? If it is, how do I remove it without damaging the cover?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, for the record, those plastic covers, the short one and the long one, are just held down with a flat head torx screw. They’re black and dirty and hard to see. The long one has a screw on each end. The cover then just lifts off. But the harness connector for the sensor is past the long cover, not under it. I’d be more interested in the condition of the sensor itself, that short run of exposed and rather fragile looking wire, the mount that holds the thing on, and the gap between the end of the sensor and that toothed wheel. Look for signs of damage.

 

[tntnj]

Followed the sensor wire and found that it is connected to the brake reservoir. I removed the rear sensor and I did find that it was blocked with dirt. Now I will try the 3500 rpm at 35 mph...

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

What is this 3500 rpm, at 35 mph that you speak?

 

[tntnj]

FIXED!!! The rear wheel sensor hole was blocked with dirt. I took off the rear ABS sensor; cleaned out the dirt that was blocking it; reinstalled it; and then drove at 3500 rpm and watched the ABS light turn off and the check engine light turn off.

I want to thank everybody who gave advice. You guys are the best.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

FIXED!!! The rear wheel sensor hole was blocked with dirt. I took off the rear ABS sensor; cleaned out the dirt that was blocking it; reinstalled it; and then drove at 3500 rpm and watched the ABS light turn off and the check engine light turn off.

I want to thank everybody who gave advice. You guys are the best.

Glad you found the problem and fixed it... However, how did you get the dirt in there??? ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

FIXED!!! The rear wheel sensor hole was blocked with dirt. I took off the rear ABS sensor; cleaned out the dirt that was blocking it; reinstalled it; and then drove at 3500 rpm and watched the ABS light turn off and the check engine light turn off.

I want to thank everybody who gave advice. You guys are the best.

Awesome!

 

[Allen42]

What is this 3500 rpm, at 35 mph that you speak?

Ditto. What is this about?