Removing RT Windshield For Cleaning

[GadgetGuy442]

Well, it's a cold dreary day here in Michigan (so, what's NEW?) and as I'm getting the Blue Bomber ready for what will hopefully be a nice day for a ride tomorrow, I decided that it was time to clean the windshield of the waterspots and bugs that are trapped between the windshield mount support and the windshield itself (see first photo).

The windshield trim plates are held in place with a single torx head screw (sorry for the blurry picture). Once you remove the screw, slide the trim plate straight down while you gently pull the upper half of the plate forward, away from the windshield. This will allow the "L" feature at the bottom of the trim plate to release from the cutout in the windshield. Take your time here, as you don't want to impart any scratches to your windshield!

Once the trim plates are off, you'll see 4 torx head screws that secure the windshield to the support. Remove these and the windshield is free to be removed and cleaned. You can also clean the support and other areas of the cockpit that are normally inaccessable.

Re-installation is straightforward and done in reverse of what's described above. I'd suggest a drop of thread locker on each of the 4 windshield bolts, and tighten them until they seat fully on the steel bushing within the rubber isolators. When installing the trim plate, hook the lower attachment "L" first, slid up gently (holding the upper attachment away from the windshield so you don't scrape it), until it's up high enough that the upper attachment can set into the cutout recess in the windshield. Install the trim screw and you're work is complete!

Bill

 

[NancysToy]

I'd recommend against using thread-locker (LocTite) on any fasteners that pass through or contact plastic parts, especially clear plastic parts. The windshield will crack or craze around the bolt holes. nojoke Don't ask how I know!

 

[GadgetGuy442]

Scotty,

I didn't realize loctite could do that! Sounds like some first-hand experience you've had that probably wasn't too much fun?!

I noticed the original bolts had some thread locker on them (yellow dot material), and since there is no torque prevailing feature of the joint (split washer or otherwise), some type of anti-rotation deterrant is needed.

The existing compound on the original screws is probably sufficient for a handful of removal / installs, but it's effectiveness will be diminished over time. Is there something that is safe to use?

Bill

 

[NancysToy]

The thread locker on the factory screws is another 3M product. I forget the name right now. It contains little epoxy capsules, which crush and activate when torqued, increasing the removal torque. The nice thing about them is that not all the capsules crush each time, allowing re-use a few times. Just be sure not to clean them with a wire brush or solvent. I no longer put anything on the factory screws when I reuse them, and I have never lost or loosened one. (Just jinxed myself.)

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Wow that sounds like a lot of work. I thought the bugs added character. Seriously though thanks for the how to and when I've had enough of the bugs I'll know where to look for how to get them off.

 

[GeoffCee]

The windshield trim plates are held in place with a single torx head screw......

Boy, I wish I had known all this before I installed my sat-nav on the upper dash. In ignorance I took the screen off by pulling circlips off the screen's 3 support pegs and you know how much room there is for a male fist to work behind the screen? The answer is NOT ENOUGH, that's what! :gaah:

Well done in publishing this work-around, thanks to you I'll know an easier route to success if there's a next time! :2thumbs:

 

[Yelhelp]

Windshield Change

I have been talking to another member about a trade I have a 2011RT and He has the 2010 RT will these two windshields interchange with same bolt holes etc.? I want the longer one he wants the shorter windshield. ray:

The windshield trim plates are held in place with a single torx head screw (sorry for the blurry picture). Once you remove the screw, slide the trim plate straight down while you gently pull the upper half of the plate forward, away from the windshield. This will allow the "L" feature at the bottom of the trim plate to release from the cutout in the windshield. Take your time here, as you don't want to impart any scratches to your windshield!

Once the trim plates are off, you'll see 4 torx head screws that secure the windshield to the support. Remove these and the windshield is free to be removed and cleaned. You can also clean the support and other areas of the cockpit that are normally inaccessable.

Re-installation is straightforward and done in reverse of what's described above. I'd suggest a drop of thread locker on each of the 4 windshield bolts, and tighten them until they seat fully on the steel bushing within the rubber isolators. When installing the trim plate, hook the lower attachment "L" first, slid up gently (holding the upper attachment away from the windshield so you don't scrape it), until it's up high enough that the upper attachment can set into the cutout recess in the windshield. Install the trim screw and you're work is complete!

Bill[/QUOTE]

 

[GadgetGuy442]

Yes, they mount with the same bolt hole pattern. Sounds like a win-win match between you two!

Bill

 

[RodMyers]

I know this is an old thread, though it was the first I found in searching.

WIth your instructions & pics, I was able to get the stock windshield removed, and the F4 customs installed with no hassles.

Thank you for the instructions and pics

 

[GadgetGuy442]

Hey there Rod, glad you found it helpful. Hope your ryding season is going well!!

All the best,

Bill

 

[kevorama]

Great post! We have two days of non stop rain on the way to MO. from Hurricane Isaac and I'm taking that time to install a Fuze Block and a Stebel Air Horn. I figured that would also be a great time to finally pull the wind screen for the first time since I purchased the bike. I had a feeling that the trim piece was the key to removal, but I wouldn't have known to slide it down to unlock the trim piece.
Once again, well done! :thumbup:

​

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Well, it's a cold dreary day here in Michigan (so, what's NEW?) and as I'm getting the Blue Bomber ready for what will hopefully be a nice day for a ride tomorrow, I decided that it was time to clean the windshield of the waterspots and bugs that are trapped between the windshield mount support and the windshield itself (see first photo).

The windshield trim plates are held in place with a single torx head screw (sorry for the blurry picture). Once you remove the screw, slide the trim plate straight down while you gently pull the upper half of the plate forward, away from the windshield. This will allow the "L" feature at the bottom of the trim plate to release from the cutout in the windshield. Take your time here, as you don't want to impart any scratches to your windshield!

Once the trim plates are off, you'll see 4 torx head screws that secure the windshield to the support. Remove these and the windshield is free to be removed and cleaned. You can also clean the support and other areas of the cockpit that are normally inaccessable.

Re-installation is straightforward and done in reverse of what's described above. I'd suggest a drop of thread locker on each of the 4 windshield bolts, and tighten them until they seat fully on the steel bushing within the rubber isolators. When installing the trim plate, hook the lower attachment "L" first, slid up gently (holding the upper attachment away from the windshield so you don't scrape it), until it's up high enough that the upper attachment can set into the cutout recess in the windshield. Install the trim screw and you're work is complete!

Bill

2012 RT uses a T25 for the trim plates and a T30 for the windshield supports, do not try to take the rubber washers off. Dont ask why. Experience talking here.

cruzr Joe