Red dust of death on front sprocket

[EdMat]

The majority seem to think, like you, that downshifting has no bearing on the front pulley red dust issue. So, I'm inclined to think that's a myth.

Does anyone know what causes the problem, which doesn't appear to be limited to just certain models or years?

You will notice that when downshifting manually or upshifting the good ole computer does a quick RPM match and it's a fairly uneventful and smooth process, that is IF you are NOT manually manipulating the throttle at the same time.

The only way we will know the cause for sure is if someone from Can-Am speaks out or some metallurgist and engineers get involved. My bet goes to we will still be typing about this five years from now.

 

[PMK]

You will notice that when downshifting manually or upshifting the good ole computer does a quick RPM match and it's a fairly uneventful and smooth process, that is IF you are NOT manually manipulating the throttle at the same time.

The only way we will know the cause for sure is if someone from Can-Am speaks out or some metallurgist and engineers get involved. My bet goes to we will still be typing about this five years from now.

No need for a reply from BRP. Since the spline is not tapered or pinched tight, there is micro movement under extreme pressure. That induces the conditions for fretting corrosion. The oxides worn from the pulley are extremely hard and propagate additional wear.

Straight spline joints require lubricant. Straight spline joints in many cases unless flowed with wet lubricant, should be disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and if not worn beyond limits, reassembled with new lubricant, then reinspected at specified intervals.

 

[PMK]

Drive pulleys technically are a wear item, same as a countershaft sprocket. Simply prevent the wear.

 

[UtahPete]

Lets not extend the requirement to all vehicles with belt drive, since some are designed differently than the Spyder.

Suggesting, have your Spyders pulleys removed, all splines cleaned and inspected, if not worn, reassemble with lubricant. Then reinspection / relube at selected intervals. Drive pulleys technically are a wear item, same as a countershaft sprocket. Simply prevent the wear.

I meant Spyders with belt drives, not any machines with belt drives. Sorry.

Do we yet know which model years are afflicted and why? Or, is it just one of those random quality control issues with parts or assembly?

 

[fatboy]

pmk where is that in the service manual SIR

 

[PMK]

I meant Spyders with belt drives, not any machines with belt drives. Sorry.

Do we yet know which model years are afflicted and why? Or, is it just one of those random quality control issues with parts or assembly?

I am not of the opinion it is a quality issue. Simply, something not expected but learned with actual miles on Spyders. While everyone always hopes they bought a perfect vehicle, history in many industries demonstrates that as the vehicles, under many owners, see actual miles of use, concerns can arise.

Still my best suggestion is accomplish the actions needed for better longevity, vs avoiding and contending with the possibility of worse issues later.

 

[PMK]

pmk where is that in the service manual SIR

The same page that states you are not allowed to select and manually downshift on account of drive pulley failure.

Consider what you are suggesting. Do nothing, but do not downshift. Lets compare this to an airliner. Would you suggest the aircraft you fly on the mechanics should ignore concerns because they are not published in a manual but are staring them in the face?

 

[GoldenSpyder]

UtahPete,
I have a 2014 RT-S with manual shift. I take a look at least once a month at my front sprocket by driving the front wheel on the left side up on a 2 x 6 and peeping underneath and up by the left footpeg using a flashlight. I am able to see the sprocket just fine and have yet to see any "red dust". I DO sometimes downshift before braking, but not drastically. So far, so good! Good luck with both of yours!

 

[UtahPete]

UtahPete,
I have a 2014 RT-S with manual shift. I take a look at least once a month at my front sprocket by driving the front wheel on the left side up on a 2 x 6 and peeping underneath and up by the left footpeg using a flashlight. I am able to see the sprocket just fine and have yet to see any "red dust". I DO sometimes downshift before braking, but not drastically. So far, so good! Good luck with both of yours!

Thanks! I appreciate that.

 

[Al Gully]

No Red Dust

Just checked mine after 8000 miles and no red dust.
Will check it in a year.

 

[davev1pa]

While on the topic of front sprockets...I did a rear tire change and with the belt off the rear sprocket I could rotate with the belt the front sprocket like 45 degrees before it stopped....I don't remember for sure but I believe it was in first gear...is that normal? Parking brake was off (not that that matters)..bike in the air...I couldn't access the front sprocket for wobble but have no real concerns for that and did not see any red dust

 

[Peter Aawen]

While on the topic of front sprockets...I did a rear tire change and with the belt off the rear sprocket I could rotate with the belt the front sprocket like 45 degrees before it stopped....I don't remember for sure but I believe it was in first gear...is that normal? Parking brake was off (not that that matters)..bike in the air...I couldn't access the front sprocket for wobble but have no real concerns for that and did not see any red dust

Is this on the 2012 RTL, with an SE5 gearbox? Or on the 2014 RTS, probably with an SE6 gearbox?? :dontknow:

In either case, if it's an SE gearbox then Yes, since your clutch is NOT engaged with the engine off/no revs for the SE5's (or engine off/no oil pressure for the SE6's) then you will be able to rotate the front sprocket freely until you get some resistance from the constant mesh gearbox internals. . And even then, you should still be able to rotate the front sprocket, only there'll probably be a little extra resistance because you're also turning at least the output side of the gears as well as just the sprocket & output shaft! :thumbup:

So what you're describing is fine. Just get out there & Ryde More, Worry Less! hyea:

 

[davev1pa]

Excellent-just the nudge I needed