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Recommendations for Ryker Rally front shocks?
- Thread starter Windhound
- Start date
Spyderdale
New member
I put Stage 3 Elkas on mine. Ordered them from Lamonster. Handles great.
chris56
Active member
it doesn`t matter what brand you use - they should be longer than the original or you get a "riser" to lift them up ! (the new 2022 Rally is higher)
I took 400mm instead of 360mm, so she is now 5,8 inch over the ground (unloaded) ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO_yEVRAGD8&t=82s
I took 400mm instead of 360mm, so she is now 5,8 inch over the ground (unloaded) ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO_yEVRAGD8&t=82s
RickD
New member
Unfortunately you are sorely limited to only a couple of options.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I did wonders for my 2014 RT by just changing the Angle of the front shocks ( making them more up-right ). It would do the same for the Ryker, and add being able to change the Ground clearance .... Un-fortunately I don't have access to a Ryker, so I can't make any brackets to fit ...... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
Rednaxs60
New member
Mentioned here that these Can-Am models are for the road, why would you go off road, or cross country - because you want to. Good on you. I have had my Goldwing on logging roads, don't ask. A Goldwing does not make a good off road bike. Having mentioned this, your options as has been mentioned are limited.
Personally, I would stay as close to the OEM shock length as possible and use the shock spring rate to set the road clearance height. Using the eye-to-eye distance of the shock to set the road clearance height, or assist in setting the road clearance height is not the best practice - JMHO.
The benefit of having a shock assembly that you can change the shock springs for different rates is that you can tailor your suspension to what you want to achieve. Your post is for doing some cross country. You can tailor the suspension, front/rear, for this requirement. When you return home, change the suspension back to what will be your daily riding profile.
If the Ryker shocks have a preload adjustment you can remove the OEM shock spring and install a shock spring with a greater spring rate, I'd start at 250 lb/in. Lots of choice on the web for aftermarket shock springs. It's the shock spring rate with preload that sets the ground clearance. You want the preload adjustment to be no more than 1 cm - seems to be an industry standard. The less preload the better. The OEM shock should give reasonable compression and rebound control.
You can also find aftermarket shocks on the web. These with the proper shock spring set can be used. These may also have a rebound damping adjustment, rebound and/or compression damping adjustments. I've looked at the cost to buy the individual parts to put together a shock assembly and the cost is not much less than going to a shock company such as Elka, M2, and such. When you go down this road, you are your own expert, no other support.
The aftermarket shock manufacturers are not that plentiful, this is a small market. There is Elka, M2, Ikon, Wilber to mention a few.
If you are going to do the front shocks, look at the rear as well. Nothing like bottoming out the rear of your Ryker, or Spyder for that matter. You can approach the rear the same way as the front.
I am going through this same exercise with my 2014 Spyder RT LE. Installed new M2 socks all round. 250 lb/in front spring rate, 700 lb/in rear spring rate (upgrade from 525). The 700 is a bit firm, not uncomfortable, for solo riding, but great for two up riding. Thinking of trialing a 600 lb/in rate rear shock spring. The front spring rate is too soft in my opinion. I have to slow to 10-15 KPH below the posted caution speed on a cloverleaf offramp (caution speed is on the orange speed signs - regular speed on the white speed signs) to go around the curve without hanging out over the side to compensate, and looking like I'm doing a snowmobile motocross. I also want to reduce the preload adjustment from the 2.2 cm to less than 1 cm, need a greater spring rate.
I am trialing different shock spring rates because the shock spring rates from an aftermarket shock manufacturer are a better approximation than that of the OEM and designed to suit a more defined rider profile market, but for my riding profile and the "feel" I get form my Spyder is making me look at some fine tuning. The shocks are way better as well.
Unfortunately BRP information regarding the suspension setup is limited. My Spyder is to have a ground clearance of 110 mm directly under the engine, only spec I can find for suspension setup - nothing on the front road clearance height, not to mention the ACS calibration for adjusting ride height with the air shock.
Hope this helps, and JMHO. Cheers
Personally, I would stay as close to the OEM shock length as possible and use the shock spring rate to set the road clearance height. Using the eye-to-eye distance of the shock to set the road clearance height, or assist in setting the road clearance height is not the best practice - JMHO.
The benefit of having a shock assembly that you can change the shock springs for different rates is that you can tailor your suspension to what you want to achieve. Your post is for doing some cross country. You can tailor the suspension, front/rear, for this requirement. When you return home, change the suspension back to what will be your daily riding profile.
If the Ryker shocks have a preload adjustment you can remove the OEM shock spring and install a shock spring with a greater spring rate, I'd start at 250 lb/in. Lots of choice on the web for aftermarket shock springs. It's the shock spring rate with preload that sets the ground clearance. You want the preload adjustment to be no more than 1 cm - seems to be an industry standard. The less preload the better. The OEM shock should give reasonable compression and rebound control.
You can also find aftermarket shocks on the web. These with the proper shock spring set can be used. These may also have a rebound damping adjustment, rebound and/or compression damping adjustments. I've looked at the cost to buy the individual parts to put together a shock assembly and the cost is not much less than going to a shock company such as Elka, M2, and such. When you go down this road, you are your own expert, no other support.
The aftermarket shock manufacturers are not that plentiful, this is a small market. There is Elka, M2, Ikon, Wilber to mention a few.
If you are going to do the front shocks, look at the rear as well. Nothing like bottoming out the rear of your Ryker, or Spyder for that matter. You can approach the rear the same way as the front.
I am going through this same exercise with my 2014 Spyder RT LE. Installed new M2 socks all round. 250 lb/in front spring rate, 700 lb/in rear spring rate (upgrade from 525). The 700 is a bit firm, not uncomfortable, for solo riding, but great for two up riding. Thinking of trialing a 600 lb/in rate rear shock spring. The front spring rate is too soft in my opinion. I have to slow to 10-15 KPH below the posted caution speed on a cloverleaf offramp (caution speed is on the orange speed signs - regular speed on the white speed signs) to go around the curve without hanging out over the side to compensate, and looking like I'm doing a snowmobile motocross. I also want to reduce the preload adjustment from the 2.2 cm to less than 1 cm, need a greater spring rate.
I am trialing different shock spring rates because the shock spring rates from an aftermarket shock manufacturer are a better approximation than that of the OEM and designed to suit a more defined rider profile market, but for my riding profile and the "feel" I get form my Spyder is making me look at some fine tuning. The shocks are way better as well.
Unfortunately BRP information regarding the suspension setup is limited. My Spyder is to have a ground clearance of 110 mm directly under the engine, only spec I can find for suspension setup - nothing on the front road clearance height, not to mention the ACS calibration for adjusting ride height with the air shock.
Hope this helps, and JMHO. Cheers
From what I have seen in my research there are basically three options. I am trying to decide on a shock for myself (but i am also considering just selling my ryker and getting an F3)
1) Can am sells fox shocks for the ryker. They have mixed reviews and from what I have read are not really any better then the KYB on the rally, plus they are pretty expensive at $1010 for front and $890 or total of $1900
2) Elka shocks are the most popular of this list and have a pretty good reputation. I have heard people complain about elka shocks eventually leaking but not hear that specifically about the ryker. These can be the cheapest of the three but they also have quite a few variations in different stages. Everyone I have heard reviews on them seem to really like them.
Fronts Stage 1 $649, stage 2 $849, Stage 3, $879, Stage 4 $1199, and stage 5 $1999
Rear Stage no stage 1 or 2, Stage 3, $464, Stage 4 $599, and stage 5 $999
3) M2 Shocks. These have a really good reputation for being excellent shocks in general. Although I havent read or heard of many reviews for the ryker. The owner of the company is a member of these forums and occasionally posts things. Like the elkas you can customize it by indicating your weight, if have a passenger and who kind of riding you do. They are also pretty expensive at $1121 for the front and $796 for the rear but he does a package deal for $1745
There are some other aftermarket shocks on ebay and amazon and they have reviews on youtube but i dont know much about them.
1) Can am sells fox shocks for the ryker. They have mixed reviews and from what I have read are not really any better then the KYB on the rally, plus they are pretty expensive at $1010 for front and $890 or total of $1900
2) Elka shocks are the most popular of this list and have a pretty good reputation. I have heard people complain about elka shocks eventually leaking but not hear that specifically about the ryker. These can be the cheapest of the three but they also have quite a few variations in different stages. Everyone I have heard reviews on them seem to really like them.
Fronts Stage 1 $649, stage 2 $849, Stage 3, $879, Stage 4 $1199, and stage 5 $1999
Rear Stage no stage 1 or 2, Stage 3, $464, Stage 4 $599, and stage 5 $999
3) M2 Shocks. These have a really good reputation for being excellent shocks in general. Although I havent read or heard of many reviews for the ryker. The owner of the company is a member of these forums and occasionally posts things. Like the elkas you can customize it by indicating your weight, if have a passenger and who kind of riding you do. They are also pretty expensive at $1121 for the front and $796 for the rear but he does a package deal for $1745
There are some other aftermarket shocks on ebay and amazon and they have reviews on youtube but i dont know much about them.
I have to admit, I've been thinking about a F3-T myself. Still undecided, I've got a lot in this Ryker.
chris56
Active member
so here are your possibilitys..
first are the new shocks from the 2022 Rally - which should be longer now, or BRP just use a Riser like this here ..
if you order shocks from Europe (France) - they offer only longer Shocks for the Ryker - they lifts her up one inch (2,5cm)
https://shock-factory.fr/fr/ryker-2019/55-pack-suspensions.html
or - I use like many others the cheap "RFY 400" - they work OK but could have a longer spring travel
( you find some posts about them here in spyderlovers)
your Rally fron-shocks with a raiser (highjacker) in the softest position would be the best solution ..
first are the new shocks from the 2022 Rally - which should be longer now, or BRP just use a Riser like this here ..
if you order shocks from Europe (France) - they offer only longer Shocks for the Ryker - they lifts her up one inch (2,5cm)
https://shock-factory.fr/fr/ryker-2019/55-pack-suspensions.html
or - I use like many others the cheap "RFY 400" - they work OK but could have a longer spring travel
( you find some posts about them here in spyderlovers)
your Rally fron-shocks with a raiser (highjacker) in the softest position would be the best solution ..
Attachments
I dont have a ton in my ryker yet. Trying to decide on putting more into it or just trading for an f3. I would really like cruise control but more than that i would like a non cvt option. Cruising for long periods of time at 60mph the cvt has me at like 6500rpm and that just gets old.
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