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Rear trunk on 2011...

_..stiffler..

New member
Ok I have searched. And I have done everything that I have found.

From taking the back panel off (8 screws) and making sure the tabs are all in place to loosening the latch at closing the lid to align it's self. Nothing is working.

It's almost impossible to close. I need to slam it hard. And even then it's only once in a while it latches. Then when it does latch 90% of the time I can pull it open.

And when latched even if locked on the highway it comes open and my gauge tells me it's open.

This is getting really annoying.

Any other ideas?

Thanks

Stiff

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There is a tab in the center of the painted panel that MUST go into a slot on the black plastic right behind the latch. If you search the threads you'll find this mentioned in multiple places.

It's easy to get in place if you press down on the black plastic behind the latch so that the tab on the painted panel will pop in place. It will never close properly until you get the tab in place.
 
:agree: And if it's out of place: you almost never even notice it. nojoke
But while you've got the panel off: check out the condition of the cables that operate the latches also.
 
well I think I figured it out. Everything was aligned and nothing was damaged etc. but I loosened all 8 screws, only loosened and then pushed the panel up or towards the front of the bike and then tightened down the screws. So far seemed to work. I guess we will see how long it lasts..
 
Nope. Didn't work. Closes easier. But still pops open while driving. No idea how to fix this. Do I buy a latch from a newer year? At a loss on this.

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Nope. Didn't work. Closes easier. But still pops open while driving. No idea how to fix this. Do I buy a latch from a newer year? At a loss on this.

Sent on Note 5 in Taptalk

I had the same issue with my '12 RT-L...but and however, I removed the screws for the latch "thinking" they were part of the 8 screws that needed to come out. Obviously, when I reinstalled everything the trunk wouldn't latch at all. I removed the panel, loosened the latch screws, and realigned the latch making sure it would lock and stay secure, thus turning off the "rear trunk unlocked" warning light. Hope this works for you. I'm a new Spyder owner after 4 decades on Harleys, so it's been quite the experience.
 
My problem I seemed to figure out is that my rear trunk latches. But as soon as I hit a bump the little bar that releases both latches is loose so it just unlatches the trunk.

Here's a video


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Your latch(es) seem to be functioning just fine...
I think that the bodywork is misaligned, and not allowing the lid to get fully seated, into the latch...
 
There is a adjuster on the cable. Make sure that is adjusted so the cable is not slightly pulling on the latch.

Bob
 
:shocked: Did it help? :shocked:

By any chance: did you happen to loosen up the two screws that hold the latch in place?
If you did: it might be misaligned...
 
So did I... :opps:
Here's what I did:
I loosened the two bolts holding the latch slightly; just enough so that it could move a bit...
I slammed the lid down, and got it to latch. I then gently opened the lid, and tightened those two bolts down A.S.A.P.
I don't know if I was just lucky... but it worked for me!
 
I would think that if you remove the lower plastic shroud that goes around the latch you will be able to adjust the latch while being able to hold the latch itself. It also gives you access to adjust the cables if you need to. Its only held with 6 torx screws I believe, if I havent started loosing my memory.

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So did I... :opps:
Here's what I did:
I loosened the two bolts holding the latch slightly; just enough so that it could move a bit...
I slammed the lid down, and got it to latch. I then gently opened the lid, and tightened those two bolts down A.S.A.P.
I don't know if I was just lucky... but it worked for me!
Tried this. Maybe I didn't get it enough. I will try again.

Really appreciate all the responses and the help guys. I'll keep ya posted.

Stiff

Sent on Note 5 in Taptalk
 
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