Rear tire change and possible bearing replacement

[aka1004]

I am getting ready to do the above for the first time and was wondering if I need any kinda specialized tool besides the typical hand tools??? Also, all of my bearings were replaced, supposedly, like 7000 miles ago so hopefully they are still good but If I have to, it takes 2 seals and 1 oring to replace wheel bearing, right?

You would not typically replace seals or orings when you are doing the rear tire, right? Of course unless they are damaged.

Thank you in advance. I watched all the videos and I think I can handle this.

 

[Rotaxer]

Do you have a Krikit tool to check the belt tension before you start so you can return it to that tension afterwards?

 

[Texmac1011]

The tire should be no problem and I see no reason to replace the bearings after 7k miles. I did have my dealer check and adjust the belt tension after changing my wife's tire. Somehow, it ended up too tight.

 

[aka1004]

I am going to use lamonster's method(undoing the rear shock) so I won't have to worry about the belt. Replacing the rear shock at the same time too.

Bearing part, I don't have much confidence or trust the dealer who did the work so that's why I thought I should have some seals and orings(already have couple of bearings) before I tear into it. Only bearing I am confident that dealer replaced was the bearing in rear sprocket because sprocket itself was replaced so they had to install new bearings.

This is a monumental task for me. I've done a lot of work on my spyder but not one that's as critical as this one. Before getting my spyder, I've never even changed oil in a car... But with help from a lot of ryders, I've come a looooooong way.
Thank you.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

You need a 36mm socket and box end wrench also.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: This is a big step; I wish you the best of luck, and want to hear about the process... :thumbup:
:bowdown::bowdown:

 

[ulflyer]

FWIW, I just had mine done at 21500 mi mainly because I was having a tire put on:

Three bearings (one double row on sprocket side, plus two single row bearings), two seals, one large O ring and two small O rings.

Total cost of bearing parts was $57.45 (I had ordered them to have on hand just in case). Total labor was $150. I furnished the tire.

Mechanic said the double row bearing did not show any wear, but I had it replaced anyway, but the other two did have just a tiny bit of play in them and could have run a little longer. His opinion was that BRP calls for changes way too soon.

 

[bscrive]

I just had the back tire replaced on the wife's Spyder. The dealer had to remove the bearings to be able to balance the tire. So, if you are putting in new bearings don't do it until you get the tire back. The dealer put new ones in and only charged us $10 for the new bearings. The total cost to install & balance the tire was $67 including the bearings. We supplied the tire.

 

[joet82]

follow lamonsters video on the rear tire replacement and you won't need the tensioner.

to take mine off it took a total of 5 hours, but that time is including making runs to get the proper tools, i.e.-36mm socket and wrench. it only took me 45 mins-1 hour to put it back on and it ran better than ever cause, somehow, I didn't have the fabled squeek at slow speeds. had a dealership replace my next tire and the squeek returned.

I also didn't break it down to the seals, I bought a car tire the same size and had a dealership break it down from there and replace the tire. all I did was get it off the axle. makes it a lot more convenient at that point cause all you have to do is pay for 30 mins shop time and that's it.

 

[jerpinoy]

There's always a first time. It's ok to be careful, this keep you in check. I know that you can do it otherwise you'll be at the dealer by now.:yes:. You have all the support by our members. Let us know the result.

 

[aka1004]

Thanks guys and gals!!! we shall see if I am still on all three wheels after the job next week.

 

[Bob Denman]

:2thumbs: