Rear Axle Torquing

[rcflyrj]

Have been trying to align and tension the drive belt after replacing rear tire. Very frustrating experience, because as soon as I start to torque the axle nut, the adjustment seems to change.

Noticed the belt near the left edge of pulley. Jacked the Spyder up, loosened the axle, lined up the belt, corrected tension. Rotated wheel. All looked good. Tightened nuts and belt went right back to left edge. Tried it on the ground, rolling across the shop. Tried it on a jack with the engine running. Same result. Finally just started making small adjustments, torque and ride on street. Took about 4 shots but fianllly where it should be. Took about two hours for what I think should take 15 minutes.

Surely there is a better way. Please tell me how stupid I've been and enlighten me!

Thanks, John

 

[rcflyrj]

BTW, Spyder is 2014 RTS SE6.

 

[PMK]

The design of the adjusters is not very good. If you ever have them out you will see that the adjusters can float and this causes a lot of the issues. Saying that, now that you are content with the setting, you might consider checking the adjuster bolts to ensure they are snug.

Also, small adjustments make ample changes. The problem is when tightening the axle the floating adjuster goes crazy. Make sure, and this is no guarantee, do not spin the axle, only the nut.

 

[AeroPilot]

Trial and error.... takes a few trys, but I also drive a couple blocks like you

Have been trying to align and tension the drive belt after replacing rear tire. Very frustrating experience, because as soon as I start to torque the axle nut, the adjustment seems to change.

Noticed the belt near the left edge of pulley. Jacked the Spyder up, loosened the axle, lined up the belt, corrected tension. Rotated wheel. All looked good. Tightened nuts and belt went right back to left edge. Tried it on the ground, rolling across the shop. Tried it on a jack with the engine running. Same result. Finally just started making small adjustments, torque and ride on street. Took about 4 shots but fianllly where it should be. Took about two hours for what I think should take 15 minutes.

Surely there is a better way. Please tell me how stupid I've been and enlighten me!

Thanks, John

I used to jack it up and adjust while running in first gear at idle on the jack. It seemed like I would still have some slack in the adjuster end caps. Lately it seems to work better to leave it on the ground, loosen the nut, and adjust just a little and then drive for a couple of blocks with only minimal torque, then back in the garage, torque to spec holding the axle backup with a 36 mm socket and 24" breaker. Still takes a couple of tries generally, but if you hold your mouth right...ray:

 

[cptjam]

Tiny adjustments

I jack it up, spin by hand 10x. Forward, then back. Most corrections take 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. It is a workout, but takes 5 min to do, including torque wrench.

 

[pitzerwm]

I was advised to torque it on the left side for some reason when you do it on the nut side, it moves the axle.

 

[Big Arm]

:agree: If you torque on the left side, you'll be applying pressure toward the adjusters. Torque on the right side, moves the axle away from the adjuster.

 

[PMK]

Torquing the axle tends to rotate the right side adjuster since the axle passes through it. The adjuster is a cast item with a nut inserted into it that accepts the adjuster bolt we see.

The entire setup, whether torqued on the left or right side relies on the belt tension pulling the axle forward. The adjuster end cap plate is not anchored or fastened to the swingarm and this creates part of the issues. Also, the adjuster is a loose slip fit into the swingarm and axle, so it is kind of free to move about regardless of which side is tightened since it tends to move as the swingarm is slightly crushed to clamp the adjuster.

I can see how a person would tend to move the nut rearward if they put the wrench below the nut and pulled rearward. Myself, with the wrench installed on the right side I am pull in an upward motion to torque the nut, not pulling rearward.

Ultimately though, if torquing the axle works better then go with that. Not here to force change on anyone.

The easy trick to know if the alignment held while torquing the rear wheel is to see if the adjuster end cap came loose. If you get it tightened, then grab the adjuster / swingarm end cap with your fingers, try and see if the cap cn be moved. If the cap can move, the axle slid rearward.

 

[rcflyrj]

Well, thanks for your replies. At least I know I'm not alone!

John

 

[finless]

In my tire change video here I talk about this issue.
When your done check that the adjuster end caps do not wiggle!

Bob

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I raised the same question here just a couple weeks ago. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nt-Problem-amp-Question&p=1099971#post1099971. See my solution that finally held it steady until the axle nut was tight in the second photo in post #14.

The right end of the axle wants to move rearward while you're tightening it thus throwing the belt to the outside edge of the rear pulley.

 

[rcflyrj]

I raised the same question here just a couple weeks ago. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nt-Problem-amp-Question&p=1099971#post1099971. See my solution that finally held it steady until the axle nut was tight in the second photo in post #14.

The right end of the axle wants to move rearward while you're tightening it thus throwing the belt to the outside edge of the rear pulley.

Thanks so much. Very elegant solution. I had done a search before starting this thread, but didn't find your entries.
I'll certainly try your solution next time around!

Thanks, John